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Wanted: Manual for Parker Hale 1861 Carbine

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Mike Pierce

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I need to locate a Manual for a Parker Hale 1861 Artillery Carbine, photo copies OK. Please help
Mike :surrender:
 
Mike I can get you copies of my 1858 Navy if you don't find the one you are looking for. Let me know.
Fox :thumbsup:
 
If you can't find a manual you're not missing much. Basically it recommends the 575213PH mould and a 2 1/4 dram charge of FFG. It then describes the loading and cleaning sequence. The really important stuff like the necessity of glass bedding the barrel and replaceing the front sight with a taller one aren't mentioned.

Band tension is critical for accuracy. If you tighten the bands too much you won't be able to remove the ramrod, but if they aren't tight enough they will shoot loose.

Glass bed the barrel before you sight the musketoon in. Properly bedded you'll have a perfect barrel/stock/band fit.

When I was young and impatient I'd shoot 'em out of the box and the results were disappointing. With the proper front sight and a good glass bedding I've shot a 48XXX offhand at 50 yards. They are very accurate little guns if you do your homework.

I might mention that the 575213PH ahead of 45 grains of powder is a very accurate combination. However the 575213PH mold casts a 566 grain bullet. The 575213 is essentially the same bullet with a deeper cavity, resulting in a lighter 510 grain bullet. The 575213OS also shoots well, and the bullet only weighs 460 grains, which makes for much less recoil.

Best accuracy will be obtained with between 40-45 grains of FFG powder. 55-65 grains of powder will yield a louder report and increased recoil but accuracy will deteriorate.
 
Any tips on glass bedding? I bought my used and have not done anything except to shoot it. OK groups at 50 yards but high and to the left. Sounds like I could check the barrel bands and such. Anything else?
Thanks
 
Well, they all shoot high out of the box. If yours is used, I suspect the person who owned it previously never replaced the issue front sight.

Replacing the front sight with a taller and thicker one, will lower the point of impact, and if the gun isn't shooting more than an inch or so left, you can file the width of the sight to correct the point of impact. Looking up the barrel from the rear sight towards the front sight, file the front sight in the direction you want the bullet to move. In other words file the
right side of the thicker front sight(the lock side.) to move the point of impact right. Somepeople are confused by this, since they have correctly heard that you move the front sight in the direction OPPOSITE the desired point of impact. Since your sight is soldered on, and can't be drifted (unless you want to dovetail the front sight) you must file the sight in the direction you want the bullet to move to.

If you are shooting anything less than a one hole group off a bench at 50 yards, the accuracy can be greatly improved with glass bedding. The inletting on these guns is average to poor, and the breech of the gun has room to move.

I just bedded a musketoon on Sunday, and they are an easy job. I used Accraglass and recommend it highly. Be sure you coat all metal parts with the realease agent, including the lock plate. I'm told the release agent is bad for springs, so just coat the plate with several thin applications. You don't need to disassemble the lock, just coat the edges and interior surfaces of the plate. Make sure you apply several coats of release agent to the tang and breech, lock screws and tang bolt. Also coat the inside and edges of the bands.

Follow the mixing instructions exactly. A single cup of hardener and resin is more than enough compound to bed a musketoon. Be sure to tape the flat top edges of the stock, because once you place the barrel in the channel, and affix the bands and tighten them in position, the compound will squeeze out of the channel and onto the stock. While it can be cleaned off with vinegar, it is much easier just to have it ooze out onto the tape. Back off the ramrod spoon two inches in both directions so that the compound doesn't ooze onto it. Make sure you locate the bands in the correct positions. The flat shoulder of the bands rest against the flat of the stock, and the band screws heads should be on the lock bolt (left side) of the gun. Make sure you can withdraw the ramrod, before letting the compound set up. If the bands are too tight, you wont be able to pull the ramrod.If you have to loosen the bands after the compound dries, you defeated the purpose of bedding which was to insure full barrel contact in the stock channel.

Properly tuned these guns are amazingly accurate. The position of the rear sight is a little too near the shooters eye to give as good a sight picture as can be obtained with the 1858 naval pattern, but the sights are still quite good.

Get the gun to shoot spot on at 50 with the rear sight fully depressed. "Kick it up a notch" to have it shoot on at 100. I've won a lot of matches with musketoons and have taken a number of deer with a variety of Enfields. You'll never have to track a deer that's been hit by a minie. They go right down. If you practice with the musketoon until you can consistently shoot in the mid to upper 40's at 50 yards, and low to mid forties at 100, you will be the end of any deer you meet. The guns are very accurate for 200 yard offhand shooting as well. I should mention however that all rifle muskets have trajectories like a rainbow, and if you aren't an excellent judge of distance 10 ring accuracy at 200 yards will translate into a clean miss at 225.

If you haven't already done so, I'd pick up a cartridge box and preload some ammo. Besides offering oustanding accuracy (with the right sized bullet) they are easy and fast to load. You don't have to worry about patches and short starters like you do with round balls. The bullet should be able to be placed in the barrel with your thumb and index finger. No presure is needed.
The bullet should NOT drop down the barrel, but should require light pressure with the ramrod.

A bullet sized to .575 works very well in these guns. I know some people who prefer to size them to .576, but I'm happy with the results from a .575 diameter minie.

I should mention that if you intend to use the rifle for hunting, fire a squib prior to taking to the woods. The bullet depends on fouling for a good fit. The 1st shot is rarely as accurate as the second, and a lubricated bullet in an un-fouled barrel can "walk" on you.

If there is an N-SSA outfit in your region, check out a skirmish. It might interest you, but even if you don't join, you'll receive some excellent information on the care, cleaning and "accurizing" of muskets.

I don't know of another muzzleloading shooting organization with 5,000 competitiors. I've never been to a round ball match that had more than 100 participants and most local shoots are lucky mto draw 25 competitors. 200 competitors at a local skirmish is common. There are many knowledgeable and excellent shooters out there, and the N-SSA has been promoting competition for over 55 years.
Rather than re-invent the wheel, talk to a wheelwright.
 
JoeFish said:
Any tips on glass bedding? ... ... Anything else?
If you want to take a traditional approach have a look at Managing The Enfield on my web site, and specifically the section on bedding. Glass bedding always seems at odds to me with a 'traditional muzzle loader' (which is what I thought this forum was all about). There's other useful information on the Enfield in the article.

David
 
Iron Jim & all:

Another little trick I came up with for musket bedding is, take a section of those very thin plastic grocery bags and place it between the lock and the stock/barrel before you pour in the goop. They're so thin that they don't interfere with the process, and they peel easily off the set bedding.

The plastic obviates the need for bathing all the internals in release agent. you just need to do the screws and a little around where the screws will puncture the plastic. And remember: if all else fails and you DO perform an Acraglass weld job, just heat the stuck parts to about 200 degrees and the glass gives up its bonding strength. I got that from an Acraglass tekkie to whom I talked before I did my first stock.

Glass bedding is not a difficult process -- CAN'T be, if I can do it! :haha: Just read the instructions a couple times, set up and do a dry run, then mix the chemicals and have some fun!
 
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