Wax or oil for stocks

[rfcbuf]

My maple rifle stocks have been finished only with multiple coats of hand rubbed boiled linseed oil. After 3 or 4 shooting events I usually touch up the stocks with single light coat of same oil hand rubbed till my hands are hot. Lately, however,I have used a light coat of carnauba car wax and the resulting finish looks great and looks better longer than the oil touchup.
My question is will the wax have any harmful effect of wax buildup or stock color change following long term usage?
Do any of you shooters have a preference for hand rubbed oil or wax for stock touchup.

 

[Rifleman1776]

A lot depends on type of wax and the quality. I don't have a BLO rifle so can't comment on that. But on all my guns I use a wax designed for antique furniture. I am pretty certain is is mainly beeswax dissolved in turpentine and has some other stuff added. I started using because I had it and it seems to be just fine. Not sure what I'll switch to when it is gone.

 

[plinker]

I give the inside of the mortises several coats of polyurethane to seal against any oil that may come their way and use Johnson's Paste Wax for the exterior.

 

[Old Salt]

I like Johnson paste wax too. I've never had any problems with discoloration or wax buildup.

 

[Billnpatti]

My wax of choice is Renaissance Wax. It is pricy and not somnething I'd pick to wax floors but a small can will last for years if you use it on your guns. I use it on both the wood and metal. It is the wax that museums use on their displays to protect them. I don't like to use oil on my stocks because it makes them feel.....well.....oily. I prefer the smooth, dry feel of a stock that has been waxed.

 

[izzyjoe]

the cva hawken that i built i used 7 coatsof BLO, and when i was done i used johnson paste wax, now i just wipe it down with lemon pledge, it look's great!

 

[jdkerstetter]

Myland's is another good wax and not that pricey. Enjoy, J.D.

 

[Stumpkiller]

I use BriWax over an oil rubbed finish. It's a beeswax & carnauba waxblend.

 

[garandman]

Does the wax over the BLO finish give it a gloss sheen? I'm thinking BLO, but want a matte / satin finish.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Depends how you rub it.

 

[MJMarkey]

My wax of choice is Renaissance Wax. It is pricy and not somnething I'd pick to wax floors but a small can will last for years if you use it on your guns. I use it on both the wood and metal. It is the wax that museums use on their displays to protect them. I don't like to use oil on my stocks because it makes them feel.....well.....oily. I prefer the smooth, dry feel of a stock that has been waxed.

I second this. Great wax, semi-gloss sheen, the little can has lasted me about 5 years and is still half full. I originally bought it to protect my cast iron saw table top.

 

[Len Graves]

I use Bri wax which is made to use on antique furniture It can be made to shine quite nicely, but doesn't give that sticky shine that some varnishes leave. This product comes in colors and can be used by itself on furniture products. I don't like this alone on guns so use a rub-on oil finish first. I also use this on my saw tables for protection and to make them slippery. There are lots of good products out there and some don't like wax on their guns. Do what works for you It's good to ask questions though.

 

[ebiggs1]

Personally I would never use linseed oil, boiled or not, on anything. There are just too many highly superior finishes available. I suppose if a person was making an as accurate as possibile HC/PC gun it may change my mind but not for much of anything else.
My grandfather and I used it 50 years ago but we didn't have all the goodies available now. We even used shellac which I do still use if a client specifies it.
But to the point, I prefer tung oil finish with Johnson's Paste wax. I have that on my first muzzle loader and it is from the 1970's and has not turned color because of the wax. I wax everything, even the brass.

 

[ebiggs1]

Sorta on this same topic, I did something a little different on the last rifle. I waxed the gun with Johnson's Paste wax while the tung oil finish was still tacky, not completely dry. It has made a very deep looking finish and seems very hard. Too soon to tell but if anyone else has tried this, let me know how it worked out. Not recommending it......................yet! :hmm:

 

[SAJones]

Personally I prefer tung oil, w/o the varnish many manufacturers put in it. Hard to find. I use Renassaince Wax on the metal surfaces of my antiques, but not the stocks except for pistols. I will say it does make the grips look good, even 180 old grips.

 

[CrackStock]

I find tung oil to be too shiny.

CS

 

[Naphtali]

A friend who is a BPCR competitor owns several exhibition-grade Shiloh Sharps, C. Sharps, and Lone Star rifles. His maintenance/touch-up choice is Renaissance Wax. According to him, it is satisfactory for metal AND wood, being the product choice of most museums.

I do not have firearms of his quality or value, so I have not used this extremely expensive wax. But I have a Shiloh Sharps 1863 Sporting Rifle on order. When it arrives, so will my tin of Renaissance Wax.

Hope this helps.

 

[stronics]

Do not overlook Johnsons Paste Wax. I use it on my table saws, jointer any metal surface I don't want to rust. I have made period type furniture and the last of the finish is JPW. To remove it completly use mineral spirits, comes right off.
Also it is a great release agent for glass bedding. I usually put two coats on the actions and nothing ever sticks to it.
Good stuff,
David

 

[nmdd]

I use Mequiare's Gold Classic Carnauba Wax Plus Premium Paste Wax...... :thumbsup:

 

[hornetk4]

I gotta agre with stronix good ol Johnsons paste wax , thats good stuff.After that I like to use olive oil after rutine cleanups .