Waxing leather

[LRB]

Yes. You are correct. Decomposed plant and animal remains, with plant being predominate. I stand somewhat corrected. :redface: Regardless though, I still stand by my post otherwise. I believe LaBonte would concur, at least with mineral oil. As I said, I WILL NOT RECOMMEND MOTOR OIL, but mineral oil, or and, Vaseline will not, in my experience with either, damage leather. At least neither holster mentioned shows any damage, after 33 and 50 years, give or take a year or two, of being oiled, and one also originally treated with non-detergent 30w motor oil.

 

[Artificer]

Here is what LaBonte has published:
http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-main-pages/leathercare.html

Gus

 

[LRB]

OK. And your point is??

 

[Artificer]

Chuck does not advise using mineral oil. He advises to use Lexol and Fiebings products that contain no silicone. Lexol products contain no mineral oil. I have not looked up the Fiebings products he recommends, because Lexol products have been so highly recommended since at least the 1960's and those are the products I have always used.

Gus

 

[LRB]

Chuck HAS advised the use of mineral oil, at least on two past postings I have seen, but promotes the better quality leather oils when possible. In the link you provided, it was stated that some tanneries used mineral oil. Perhaps you might want to re-read the link yourself. Just an hour ago, I dug out the two holsters I mentioned to see how they were doing. Both are in very good condition, other than the natural wear they got over the years, and I even tried to tear the leather of both, and could not. Would you care to explain why they are still in good condition? Again, one is 50 years old, and still supple, and still in good enough shape to be used.

 

[Artificer]

I noticed he wrote some tanneries used mineral oil, so I don't have to re-read it. Mineral oil is certainly used by tanneries that have done or do chrome tanning. The leather Chuck normally uses is Veg Tanned. What kind of tanning was done on the holster you mentioned?

Gus

 

[LRB]

I assumed they were vege-tanned, but I don't know for sure. Could be chrome-tan I suppose. They both were the cheaper over the counter types, and not custom holsters. One a Hunter brand, the 50 yr old, a Braur Bros. However, Chuck's advice on the use of mineral oil concerned vege-tanned leather, and not chrome-tan.

 

[Artificer]

If Chuck is feeling well enough, hopefully he will see this thread and comment on it.

My first custom holster was made by the Lawrence Company in the mid 60's. They advised against using mineral oil and advised using Lexol. Bianchi rather strenuously advised against mineral oil when I visited the plant often in Temecula, CA in the early 90's, when I only lived a few miles away. Saddle makers and other leather workers I have visited from Virginia to California also advised using Lexol and quite often against mineral oil.

So with Lexol being advised so often, by so many leather workers over the years; that and the fact I have used it in many climates on saddles, horse tack, holsters, and historic reproduction leather items I have made and used, etc., etc. is why I recommend Lexol.

Gus

 

[longcruise]

Being oil tanned does change it's workable nature. My first two bags were 5oz veg tanned and they were very difficult to turn. Came out OK in the end but the stiffness makes them harder to use in the field.

I think you will do fine with the oil tanned. Been watching for a deal on some oil tan to give it a try.

 

[htredneck]

I have oil tanned 5 - 6oz cowhide, veg tanned 5 - 6oz cowhide, oil tanned 3oz cowhide, 2 veg tanned 3 - 4oz elk hides and an almost bullet proof water buffalo hide. I have enough leather to rebuild a pretty good sized animal!

I make the occaisional bag, tool pouch, etc to keep away the boredom but have yet to make THE bag if that makes any sense. I am extremely critical of my own work so I always seem to manage to find something to change or that I want to do different. The oil tanned is definitely easier to work with as far as workability and flexibility goes, and it can be had already dyed in about color you can think of.

I am determined to figure out the dye part of this whole thing and so far have managed to get my rear kicked by it. It doesn't seem to matter what size the piece is. I have tried the different oils and don't really care for the outcome. Actual liquid dye comes out uglier than homemade sin. I just cannot seem to nail down the process and have decided there has to be something in the preparation part that I am either not doing or doing incorrectly. Any suggestions or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Curt]

htredneck get you some bark tanned deer hide and walnut hull dye and your troubles should go away. Curt