Well I guess im jumping in to flints

[ShootistJack]

Clearly Grenadier1758 has "walked the walk", as the below instructions from him, sound like Rock Solid Guidance!

*The Traditions lock can be tuned to be reliable.
*Get the tools you need to disassemble your lock.
*You need:
1- a mainspring vise to remove the main spring and the frizzen spring.
2- a set of gunsmith screwdrivers that fit the screws on your lock and lock bolts.
3- fine emory paper or a fine stone to polish the mating surfaces of your lock and
remove any sharp edges where the tumbler rotates against the lock plate or burrs
left from the manufacturing process.
*Your lock should be properly hardened as you receive it.
*Do the smoothing on a flat surface so you can control the amount of polishing.
*No metal (at least not enough to measure) should be removed.
*You just want that very smooth surface.
*Polish the bearing surface of the bolt that holds the frizzen to the lock plate to ease rotation.
*Leave the nose of the sear alone.
*Apply a light grease and reassemble.

 

[Rob Davis]

Well I got around to ordering the rest of the stuff that I believe I need. Got to get the shop cleaned up and prepared for the arrival of the kit. I really appreciate all the help so far, and I am not in a hurry to finish it, that is one thing I like about casting and reloading it teaches us patience. I have a feeling that the flintlock will be another practice in patience for me. The cap and ball revolver I bought years ago was to start my path to the first kit rifle build, it just took me 7 years to get around to ordering it. I am amazed at the craftsmanship I have seen on this forum and I hope to learn the art myself.

 

[ebsails]

The enjoyment of shooting of a flintlock rifle is hardly coming to the dark side. Shooting a flint lock rifle is experiencing the art of traditional muzzle loading. And experiencing art should be enjoyable. Percussion cap locks show the technological improvement made to improve reliability in shooting traditional muzzle loading rifles.

You are correct that it is the lock that is the heart and soul of flint lock rifle. The Traditions lock can be tuned to be reliable. There are some things that you can do to get the lock functioning out of the box. As a kit, the lock won't be as finely finished as a Kibler lock out of the box, but don't let that dismay you. Get the tools you need to disassemble your lock. You need a mainspring vise to remove the main spring and the frizzen spring. You need a set of gunsmith screwdrivers that fit the screws on your lock and lock bolts. You need some fine emory paper or a fine stone to polish the mating surfaces of your lock and remove any sharp edges where the tumbler rotates against the lock plate or burrs left from the manufacturing process.. Your lock should be properly hardened as you receive it. Do the smoothing on a flat surface so you can control the amount of polishing. No metal (at least not enough to measure) should be removed. You just want that very smooth surface. Polish the bearing surface of the bolt that holds the frizzen to the lock plate to ease rotation. Leave the nose of the sear alone. Apply a light grease and reassemble.

Great advice, thanks. I too am taking the leap to flint, and just started working on a traditions kit.
Fitting the parts to the stock, then will get a finish on the stock, and on to browning the barrel, and thinking about darkening the brass.

 

[Rob Davis]

Well small update is in order, I have been out of town for work but I have managed to get some work done on the project. I ordered a set of hollow ground screwdrivers, and they do make a big difference working with these butter like screws. I have the stock almost ready for staining, but the tang of the barrel wood is a little proud of the metal, so it will need some more work. It has been put together and taken apart multiple times now. I am not really pleased with the brass insert for the two piece stock, but I knew that going into the project, I am working it down the best I can but I believe in the end it will have a very small gap. Right now I have everything I need to finish it, just trying to decide if I want to use Brass Black on the furniture or just polish it all? Has been a great learning experience so far, I also fitted a flint in a small piece of old wallet leather and it sparks good, so I am hoping that she will shoot once it has been completed. I plan to do some pictures this weekend and see if I can add them to the post. I have the barrel ready for browning but right now finishing the stock is first thing on the agenda. Looking forward to working on it more this long weekend. Will stay in touch so you can try to help a newbie out.

 

[Rock Home Isle]

I use a mixture of ammonia, dawn dish soap, and water when I first scrub out my bore…take those dirty patches and rub down your brass when cleaning your gun after shooting.

In short order…you’ll have a beautiful patina finish on those brass fittings

 

[Rob Davis]

Well I made several beginner mistakes, but it is finished and together. Going to go over the barrel again as I am not happy with how it came out. Many of you will probably not like my choice of stain, but I like it very much. I do have to go over the stock and get the shine dulled down some. I enjoyed the process and for my first one I think it turned out pretty good. Now I got to get the stuff together to go shoot this thing. Hope yall like the picture.

 

[ebsails]

Well I made several beginner mistakes, but it is finished and together. Going to go over the barrel again as I am not happy with how it came out. Many of you will probably not like my choice of stain, but I like it very much. I do have to go over the stock and get the shine dulled down some. I enjoyed the process and for my first one I think it turned out pretty good. Now I got to get the stuff together to go shoot this thing. Hope yall like the picture.View attachment 141812

Looks Great ! You should be proud. Congrats.

 

[Alan O]

Love to build FLs and stopped there bc it *is* addicting. Never did percussion. Also re-habbing some old FL kits and cast-offs that others sold cheap - usually only need the frizzen hardened. My others (e.g., Rem 870, Win 270, Browning 22) all sit in cases with trigger locks. Hardly ever touch exc to clean 'em every year.

 

[SlidePicker]

Well I made several beginner mistakes, but it is finished and together. Going to go over the barrel again as I am not happy with how it came out. Many of you will probably not like my choice of stain, but I like it very much. I do have to go over the stock and get the shine dulled down some. I enjoyed the process and for my first one I think it turned out pretty good. Now I got to get the stuff together to go shoot this thing. Hope yall like the picture.View attachment 141812

That looks great! I love red wood stains! My first and only build so far is a flintlock Dixie Tennessee Mountain Rifle back in 1980, which I still have and shoot. I went even redder on it!

 

[hanshi]

I like those red finishes and have a rifle with that color stock.

 

[Johnny Tremain]

The first date I had with my EX was at a range. She wanted to learn black powder shooting.
The first time she touched off the 54 cal there were 3 army guys and an Asian chick.
They all hit the ground from the report. That was worth the day trip by itself.
Even tho the frizzen broke, she still took me back to her place.

When we parted 8 years later she took that rifle with her, and I built the one I have now. True story.