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What brand of Musket Cap do you use?

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Juggernaut

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What brand of Musket Cap do you use? I have been using CCI US Musket Cap. So far no misfires. Any of you have any input?

Thanks Juggernaut
 
I have used the same brand as well. No problems here. I have bought some RWS flangeless caps. The seem to flow better in my capper without the wings.
 
When I was slinging lead in the N-SSA, one of my teamates was using CCI caps. They fired fine, but I was getting pelted with small, hot pieces of brass (they hurt like *$%_+!!). I have used both Navy Arms & the German caps without misfires (The German caps are a lot easier to get out of the tin).
 
RWS # 1081 musket caps all the way. Also a hello to fellow brother Rebelyell, I belong to the Delaware Blues (N-SSA). Uncrichie.
 
I am currently using Navy arms Caps. I got four 250 cap tins some time ago. I have fired over 600 of them with out one miss fire. When I run out I plan to get some more of the same. If it works don’t fix it.
 
I've only ever used the RWS flanged musket caps & have never had a problem with them on any of my three rifle-muskets. I bought 5,000 of them about nine years back & am down to my last 1,000 or so.
 
Gentlemen,
I'm new to the musket cap. Just purchased my first ML that required them (been limited in requirement to #11). Don't know if this tracks perfectly, but: What is the difference between a "regular" musket cap and one with a flange? I'm fairly certain it is the flange. Give that, what purpose does it serve? Will either work, if the nipple is of correct size? and Does one have any advantage over the other?
 
I use Navy Arms caps. I been using these for about 5 years, for Civil War reenacting. So I go through a bunch of them and haven't had any problem with them. My PO is that CCI caps are too hot. You have to be careful that you don't get sprayed from them.
 
6 flange caps are a no-no in civil war reenacting due to the post above. CCI are a 6 flange cap and are subject to flinging flanges all about. 4 flanged caps do not release their flanges or ears.When your equipment is inspected at some events and they find 6 flange caps in your cap pouch you would not be able to participate in the battles or firing demonstrations, until you replace with the 4 flange caps.
I have had flanges stick in my neck and ears, cheeks and lips, and worry about getting them in my eyes. So now when we get in our battle lines I always check around me for them. Safety is always first.
In my personal experience I find that the CCI caps are a bit hotter than the 4 flange. So I keep a few around to help clear out my musket, after cleaning,for the days battle. Or if I am using it for live firing on my home range.
 
Spent a day at the range yesterday using the cci musket caps. They worked great!
 
The only kind I've seen for sale around here is RWS. They work fine even tho I'm not real fond of their small caps. Should have enough to last me awhile.
 
I have been skirmishing since 1967 and shooting RWS caps in my various CW rifles since. I can tell you that the priming in the RWS winged caps and the wingless is the same. I spoke with an RWS sales rep about that many years ago. I use the wingless for practice because until recently they were 10-15 dollars cheaper/1000 than the top hats and would give the same firing results as the winged. Winged caps now are the descendants of the military winged caps designed so that a soldier could pick a cap out of his capbox by touch and orient it to slip on to the nipple of his weapon in the dark of night or heat of battle without looking. He could load that way too. I believe the CCI are hotter because when I took the breechblock out of my Sharps percussion repro and capped the nipple, set it off by tapping with a small hammer and observed the fire in my dark garage the CCI flash length was longer and the size bigger. Some guns shoot better with a hotter cap. The wingless cap was a sporting use cap, though nearly 100% interchangeable with the top hat. I'm not a reenactor, but have attempted to help reenactors without live fire experience to learn to shoot a minie ball. Of the 6 I have experience with as a group, 2 had guns so neglected as to be unsafe with breeches nearly completely clogged and bores severely pitted from rust. All but one of the rest had guns with moderately pitted bores, but a cap could still fire through the flash channel. We shot moderate 40 grain charges and lighter than standard minies. One fellow had drilled out the nipple for fire to pass to blank charges and didn't tell. After concealing hammer blowback on the first shot, his second shot blew the hammer back, which broke the tumbler, releasing the repro extra heavy mainspring, allowing it to tear out a chunk of wood under the lockplate neat the triggerguard. No injury resulted But the entire experience left me with little regard for....... But that's another matter. Hope this helps a bit about musket caps. Wonky
 
I agree that reenactors of all types forget that they are using a "real" musket/rifle. So I see when they do weapon inspections how many wouldn't or couldn't be life fired.
When you take into account that most reenactors are city boys it's understandable. They have had no training, or had no need to use them for real. To them it's just an expensive cap gun, as long as it fires the powder, why the heck do I need to clean and oil it..
 
That's an amazing apologia for a reenactor in as much as they have a reputation and actual experience in researching everything CW down to a gnat's butt.The authentic directions for cleaning a musket given to soldiers and enforced by military authority is readily available. It's not often considered or the issue brought to light on a forum, but individuals lives depended in a daily manner on skillful use of the gun. Many first hand accounts of success and a few of failure exist. Probably the same 10%, you think?
 
Long Shooter asked: What is the difference between a "regular" musket cap and one with a flange? I'm fairly certain it is the flange. Give that, what purpose does it serve? Will either work, if the nipple is of correct size? and Does one have any advantage over the other?

You are correct in assuming that the flange is the only real difference between the two, & they are interchageable. In my experience the flange would make it easier for handling, especially in the field were you may have cold or gloved fingers.
 
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