What did I buy? What's it worth?

[Stubert]

Was at an antique store this morning and saw a blackpowder rifle in the corner. It was an Underhammer by Hopkins & Allen, marked 50 cal. on left side, and a 4 digit ser.# on the right. It appears to be a slow twist, the bore is clean, no cracks on the stocks, Light maple stock, curved brass but plate, No patchbox. I can't post pictures on this computer. It does NOT say Numerich arms on the barrel. The ONLY writing on the top is the name. I paid $150.00 for it not knowing what it was.(it had a weaver mount on the top covering the name)Was it good deal for me, or the antique store?

 

[hawkeye2]

It had to be good for the antique store or they never would have let it go. As for you, if you can can overlook its odd appearance long enough to get it to the range I think you'll find you did quite good too.

 

[Patocazador]

Back in the day I'd look at that gun in the annual edition of Gun Digest and ask, "Why would anyone want that flimsy-looking thing?"
Now I ask, "Why didn't I buy that unique firearm?" :idunno:

 

[galamb]

You can pull the barrel and have a look underneath. Some were made in Spain or Italy and it's marked on the bottom of the barrel.

Some of these originally sold as kits back in the 60's/70's for about 80 bucks.

Typically today they go for 200-300 bucks if they are in decent shape.

So if it's in good shape it sounds like you got it at a good price..

 

[Wes/Tex]

Finding one in a 4-digit serial numbered frame is a bit of a find for you. Not all the earlier ones had the company name on the barrel. The fly in the ointment comes in it's caliber. The whole run of Numrich Arms, H&A underhammers came in .36 & .45 with only the "deer stalker" in .58 being the exception. If it is an original .50 caliber barrel, it's probably a replacement and somebody went to no small amount of trouble to have it made so. It may not be ALL original, but you got a good buy on it!

 

[Captjoel]

It does sound like you got a pretty good deal for 150 dollars. I have had similar experience with same type rifle for the same money. Also, another time and another rifle, with a scope mount, a moron had drilled the holes all the way through to the bore. Found that out after I bought it. Hope everything works out for you Stubert.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

When you shoot it...

You will want to have a long sleeved shirt, or probably something thicker. The cap can "spit" a bit sideways and so your forearm may get "bit" a little on the arm that supports the forestock.

Also, sometimes the main spring / trigger guard gets weak, so it might need replacement, which is not a problem.

LD

 

[Mickc01]

I can only speak for myself but in the condition you describe, I would have paid $150.00 for it in a heartbeat. I have regretted for years not trying one of those out when they were being made. Have fun with it. :hatsoff:

 

[Rifleman1776]

You did well at that price. Those H&A underhammers are shooters. The twist is probably 1:56". There was a model a little fancier than the others. Most did not have brass except the thimbles. Be sure to use only nipples designed for that rifle, they are different tham most other ml rifles. TOW can fix you up, as can other vendors. Enjoy.

 

[Stubert]

Thanks for the replies, Now I can tell my bride what a deal I got. Any powder charge recomendations?

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Start with 50 grains (I like 3Fg over 2Fg), and work up. I have found 70 - 80 grains is often very very accurate and has plenty of whomp out to 100 yards on deer. Try a .490 ball and .015 pillow ticking to start (imho).

LD

 

[trent/OH]

When you shoot it...

You will want to have a long sleeved shirt, or probably something thicker. The cap can "spit" a bit sideways and so your forearm may get "bit" a little on the arm that supports the forestock.

LD

An archery armguard may be in helpful on your forearm.

 

[Richard Kemp]

I've said this before and I'll say it again. If the mainspring (triggerguard)is strong on your underhammer, and you don't overcharge it, you'll never have to worry about it spitting caps into your forearm.