robinsroost
50 Cal.
:wink: I use RIG gun grease on the arbors, and felt over powder wads with no grease over the ball.....Robin
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What Do You Use To Lubricate Your 1858 Revolvers
- Thread starter Capnballhunter
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Cpl. Ashencheeks
40 Cal.
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I keep reading many of you do not grease over the ball.
I really did not use very much of the spitball product, which I don't think Hodgdon makes anymore.
Usually, it is just a light application on the outside edge ring area of the ball and chamber where most of the lead of is still showing.
What about that product called wonder seals?
I think it is an over the ball lubricant button which seems to be beewax and tallow of some sort.
I have never used any of this, but would this really cause that much fouling?
I still probably would not cover the ball entirely, rather more like I described above in this post.
I really did not use very much of the spitball product, which I don't think Hodgdon makes anymore.
Usually, it is just a light application on the outside edge ring area of the ball and chamber where most of the lead of is still showing.
What about that product called wonder seals?
I think it is an over the ball lubricant button which seems to be beewax and tallow of some sort.
I have never used any of this, but would this really cause that much fouling?
I still probably would not cover the ball entirely, rather more like I described above in this post.
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Bore Butter on the arbors of all my C&Bs.
I was starting to feel alone out here in the bore butter use.Dicky Dalton said:
On the cylinder pin I've used car grease, outboard engine grease, 30W engine oil and 10W (motorcycle) fork oil plus one or two other oils that I have. They all worked. Currently I'm using the fork oil. I also use wax pills (cookies) over the powder. This is a slight variation on Gatafeo's lube - equal parts mutton tallow/beeswax/paraffin wax. I find this seems to keep the fouling under some sort of control. After the first 10 shots I sometimes feel the cylinder rotation starting to stiffen, if that happens I pull the cylinder pin and then push it back in, that's all it seems to need to then be ok.
