What does patch lube actually do?
- Thread starter FlintRock
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The match patching (teflon sprayed one side pillow ticking is dryish not really full dry hard to explain but if you use it you will know what I mean. I keep it in the deep freeze to keep fresh.. The teflon allows the patched ball to be seated.
When using it I always wipe the bore between shots. On my Buff gun on hot days between relays I leave a damp patch at the breech, then one dry patch reto fire the next shot. The bore is always 1 shot fouled that way so all shots grouped together.
When hunting I use a beeswax and bear grease patch. I bought a few cans of Foggy Mnt shoe grease 30 years ago when a Rite Aid closed. Still have the can I am currently using and 5 others that I have not opened I donot expect to runout in my lifetime.
woodsnwater
40 Cal
MMMMM bore butter
Henry Miles
40 Cal
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When a properly sized/lubed PRB is loaded in a clean bore, the patch lube is deposited in the bore and aids in ease of loading and patch protection. It also leaves a deposit for burned powder to attach to. The 2nd load, with a properly lubed PRB, pushes the burned powder crud out of the grooves and back down on top of the new powder charge. If done right, the barrel is now nearly the same condition as the first shot with only minor fouling in the grooves. Follow up shots work the same way, with the next load cleaning the crud from the grooves created by the previous shot. If done with the correct technique, the barrel continues to be very nearly as clean as when you loaded the first shot. The key is to use a lube that works. Lube performance will vary with temperature, especially extreme cold. This has worked for as long as front stuffers have been around. The exception would be if you're going for a world record attempt and would want/need to swab after every shot. Otherwise, load with a good patch lube and shoot until you run out of ammo. Then you'll be surprised how easily the rifle cleans up. Live long and prosper!
You will also light the range on fire when the grass is dry. In our region, greased/oil lubes are strictly forbidden during fire season because they can and do, light fires. various greased/oiled patches are perfect for time when you gun willbe left loaded for long periods. For days when the gunis shot a lot, the water-based lubes will keep the bore wiped clean and prevent the build-up of fouling in the area just ahead of the chamber.
OK, my experience with Teflon lube. I used to shoot on weekends at Friendship. Among the others who shot were some of the greats of the time, e.g. 1970. Webb Terry was one of them. Webb is listed as a winner in the record books many times. In real life he was known as a master machinist and consumate experimenter. One day he showed up at the range with some ticking he had lubed with Teflon. On shooting he got great groups. He also found those groups were lower on the target than with identical loads using more traditional lubes. But, he was pleased with the results and began marketing Teflon lubed patch cloth. Personally, I never enjoyed using it compared to more 'authentic' methods.
Never have had that happen. And that is with a whole lot of shooting over many decades.
Was reading your original post...JMO,but I wouldn't leave my rifle loaded for "a couple weeks". I think it'll bring troubles. As I said JMO. I,personally feel uneasy w overnite.I know it's a pain to shoot at dark,and clean,then start all over again tomorrow,but you'll never have a question that it'll go when needed.Maybe I'm over-cautious,but that's my 2 cents.
S.Kenton
58 Cal.
I was always told that the job of patch lube is to seal the ball in the barrel, keep fouling softened and keep the patch from burning before leaving the barrel.
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Could you share how you prepare the tallow? Do you heat and pour over the patches?
Tallow is pretty easy, same with mink oil or any of the other semi-solid greases... Using your pre-cut patches I just heat some up in a tuna size can till it's all melted (not too hot though) and toss in a bunch of patches and let them get a good soak, then pull them out and let the excess drain off and cool, then stuff them into your preferred container... Easy as pie... The other option is just carry a tin and lube as you go just make sure you get plenty on the patch and work it in...
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Sounds easy. Better than trying to rub it in while solid. That’s a pain
A good patch lube can also grease your moccasins, cows knee or other leather gear, protect chapped lips, seal wood and metal gaps from moisture or protect-lube lock and or metal parts as well as seal your patch from any water that may find it's way down your barrel while hunting or walking.
The patch lube is used to help seat the ball more easily. To do that well, it needs to slip down the barrel. A spit patch will slip down the barrel. On its way down the barrel, presuming it is a reasonably tight fit, it should help clean the black powder fowling out of the barrel and the rifling. Spit patches do that OK, but usually you'll have to stop after 2 or maybe even 3 shots and run a wet patch or two down the barrel to clean it out enough to once more run another ball down the barrel. With a good patch lube, that patch should not only slip down the barrel smoothly but soften the fouling as it goes down cleaning it beyond what a spit patch can do. That way there is little to no build-up of fouling that requires you to running a cleaning patch or two down the barrel before firing your next shot.
The patch lube that I use is one that I found here on the muzzleloading forum when I first joined the forum back in 2004. It is Stumpy's Moose Snot. Stumpy is/was a moderator on the forum and he knows a thing or two about chemicals as well as what was available back in the 18th ct. He actually designed two different ones and the Moose Snot was specifically for use with loading blocks because it didn't dry out. I use it for every shot. I carry it in a rectangular tin box and it's about the consistency of paste shoe polish.
I carry a strip of pillow ticking for my patch and I'll rub the end of that into my Moose Snot until I can feel it come through to my finger on the opposite side. Then I'll place the patch with the lubed side down over the muzzle, short start the ball and trim the patch at the muzzle. Then I'll flip my short starter over to the 6" part and give it a whack to get it down with the patch firmly engaged in the rifling. Then I'll seat it with short strokes on my ramrod or range rod.
As long as I keep using that same amount of lube on the patch, I can continue shooting without using a cleaning patch. If it's a little hard to seat on ball, that means I didn't use enough lube on it. So, I'll use a little more and continue shooting without building up any BP residue. That lubed patch softens and pushes the residue down on top of the powder where it's blown at the barrel on the next shot. As long as you use the right amount of lube it never gets worse than one shot of residue.
Here's the recipe for it and how to make it, in Stumpy's words:
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Stumpy's Moose Snot
A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block
Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
1/2 oz. = 1 tbsp = 3 tsp
1 oz. = 2 tbsp = 6 tsp
Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out).
FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.
Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.
Pete G
76 Cal.
Patch lube lubes patches.
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Cut, soaked in liquid tallow, let dry, 15 patches today. So easy!
Anyone have a thought about wiping the bore with dawn or some sort of lube after seating the charge and projectile?
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I've had the experience twice.
Some like "authentic" which is good, some like 10X's and national records which is also good.
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Not 'zackly traditional though, is it, Old Bean. I mean, show me in any older documentation you might lay your hands on where the use of teflon patching is actually mentioned.
Just kidding.
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