What Does This Match - Historically Speaking.

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
May 19, 2021
Messages
1,856
Reaction score
5,045
Location
The Woodlands, Texas
Howdy, y'all,
I'm new to flintlocks, and bought a Traditions Frontier .50 cal. for reenacting. I use it for salutes and battles with the Texas Army. We beat Santa Ana again this year at San Jacinto.
I've seen comments regarding quality of Traditions. I bought this online, and it fires powder for salutes just fine. Looking forward to shooting lead.
Y'all know the details that make a rifle a Hawken, a Pa rifle, or any of the other types of flintlocks from history.
What historical rifle does this most look like?
Thanks for your help.
Brazos John
SASS 33047
 

Attachments

  • Flintlock Lock.jpg
    Flintlock Lock.jpg
    211.8 KB
  • Flintlock Left Side.jpg
    Flintlock Left Side.jpg
    50.8 KB
There were a lot of rifles made in California following the gold rush that look a lot like the T/C and Traditions half stock rifles.

Getting to the "shooting lead" part, read all the threads you can on the forum that talk about loading and loads for muzzleloading rifles. There is a lot of information and some of it seems to be conflicting with other parts of it so, use some common sense to figure out which might be the best answers.

A quickie for your .50 caliiber rifle:
Use a .490 or a .495 diameter lead ball. Patch the ball with a tight weave, pure cotton patch. Usually one that is from .015" to .020 thick works best at sealing the bore and grabbing the rifling grooves. The blue/white striped pillow ticking sold at Walmart and Cloth stores seems to work best. Avoid using Pre-Lubricated patches as they often are old and the lubricant will weaken the material causing it to rip or totally disintegrate when it is fired.
Lubricate the patch with spit, water, Crisco, plain Lard, or maybe some "Bore Butter".

A powder load of 60 to 90 grains will be close to being what you need with 70 grains often being the best.

The Traditions guns usually have excellent barrels that are easily capable of shooting a 2 inch group at 50 yards. Many do even better.

Have fun.
 
Like I said, I'm new here, and want to learn more about these neat guns.

Zonie,
Thanks for the advice. What makers were in California and when? What were the gun's characteristics?
If this was after the Gold Rush in '49, maybe I don't have the right rifle for 1836 Texas.

Bubba,
What details point to Ohio or New England?

Thanks,
Brazos
 
Most of the period half stocked rifles with the brass hardware and single wedge hooked breech would have been percussion. The caliber, half stock and general architecture fall into the looks of rifles made in Ohio, Illinois and Missouri for game generally much smaller than the bison and grizzlies found on the plains and in the western mountains.

With respect to the Texas Presentation, the flintlock version as manufactured by Traditions, T/C and other rifles by Investarms are a fantasy. However, your rifle may well be accepted for reenacting 1836 Texas struggles for independence. If your rifle was out of place, the regiment you were fighting in would have told you.
 
I have a Traditions Hawken Woodsman. Not much different than what you have. 70 grains 2f goex black powder and a patched .490 ball do real well. Mine is well built and sturdy. I have been shooting it for 12 years now without any issues. Take care of it and it will do you well.
 
One reason for my questions is, at a recent salute, I saw the usefulness of a flashguard.
Of the flashguards available, they are plain, or with a British crown, or a fleur-de-lis.
If my rifle is American, I guess I'll go with the plain one.
Historically, were flashguards used? When?
 
In my F&I unit, we have searched for documentation for flash guards. We have not found any. However, the use of flash guards as a courtesy to the shooter beside you makes the practice well worth while. In most reenactment situations the flash guard is a requirement. Use the plain one. Also, a hammer stall, which is a leather cover for the frizzen is historically correct and a good safety measure. The leather on the face of the frizzen (sometimes called the hammer or steel) will stall or stop the flint as it from striking the frizzen.
 
My friend,
I’m sorry to say this, but I don’t believe anything like this rifle was ever built in past history.
I know I’ll be bashed for this Im sure, and I REALLY don’t want to be mean, just realistic.
Everyone continues to look for the elusive Half stock flintlock Hawken, and I’m sure someone will come up with a photo of one found in their attic, in a wall, owned by an old uncle, etc.
Here‘s the thing...... it really doesn’t exist, BUT, that really shouldn’t matter. If you’re happy with its functionality for what you use it for, go for it, and don’t look back.
If you want something that IS historically accurate, find something else.
Either way, have fun!
 
Thanks for your honesty, That's why I asked. Since I'm portraying a soldier with Sam Houston, I need to be accurate. It's a great little rifle, and I will use it until I can afford something more appropriate.
As black powder is a rabbit hole from cowboy action shooting, flintlocks are a rabbit hole off of black powder. There's SOO much to learn. And though I'm in Texas, I was born in Pennsylvania, and I would love to learn more about the KY rifles made in PA. Family went from the Lehigh Valley in PA to the Shenandoah Valley in VA. Lots of neat history that I'm just discovering.
 
Those rifles are beautiful, Flintandsteel and GriscomRun.
From SASS to BP to flintlocks to Lehigh Valley rifles.....
In 2 minutes, I found a week's worth of reading on Lehigh Valley rifles.
Where does it end? I guess when I run out of money..... ;)
 
Back
Top