Unless your using a reagent like aqua fortis which actually changes the color of the wood itself, you are pitting pigment to wood, microscopic as it might be.
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What finish on maple....
- Thread starter garandman
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jdkerstetter
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That's a fact, however, dyes pentrate better and don't obscure figure as does the muddy pigment hardware store stains.
Enjoy, J.D.
Enjoy, J.D.
sleeperNY
40 Cal.
Magic Maple Stain can darken the wood until it looks almost black if you want. It mixes with water and works great to bring out the curl in maple. The less water you mix the darker it will be. I have used nitric acid watered down around 75% and it works great but is a real dangerous product to use. I have used LMF stains and have even used them on guitars with great success.
Palepainter
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It would be great to have a sticky and posts with photos describing which type of stain, and process involved. If people are willing to share their top secrets. Just a thought.
Are we talking about a stain or a finish?? :idunno:
For a stain I am really liking alcohol based stains.. I use aqua fortis.. but not to make anything look like walnut.. Only walnut looks like walnut. :v
Now for finish I really like what Jim Chambers is putting out. Just easy to use compared to the other oil finishes that I have used. :thumbsup:
For a stain I am really liking alcohol based stains.. I use aqua fortis.. but not to make anything look like walnut.. Only walnut looks like walnut. :v
Now for finish I really like what Jim Chambers is putting out. Just easy to use compared to the other oil finishes that I have used. :thumbsup:
jdkerstetter
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Good idea as a starting point. But it can be problematic in that no two pieces of wood react the same. Stocks from two suger maples colored from the same mix of aqua-fortis may come out entirely different.Palepainter said:
Same goes for stains. It is always advised to test on wood cut off the very blank you are working from or in an inconspicuous area like the barrel channel.
Enjoy, J.D.
OK, so I picked up some Tung Oil to try over the Minwax stain on the same piece of maple...
I was amazed at how the wood soaked up the Tung Oil. Completey absorbed in a matter of about 5 minutes. Where the BLO sat on top of the wood 15 minutes later (and I then wiped the excess off)
So far I've got a nice reddish-brown finish, with a good amount of the grain still exposed, giving the piece a nice character. Def thinking about going with the Tung Oil instead of the BLO... will apply another coat of TO tomorrow, and hopefully my kit will be here by then.
I was amazed at how the wood soaked up the Tung Oil. Completey absorbed in a matter of about 5 minutes. Where the BLO sat on top of the wood 15 minutes later (and I then wiped the excess off)
So far I've got a nice reddish-brown finish, with a good amount of the grain still exposed, giving the piece a nice character. Def thinking about going with the Tung Oil instead of the BLO... will apply another coat of TO tomorrow, and hopefully my kit will be here by then.
:thumbsup: Tung Oil Finish is so much better than BLO, it should be obvious, but apparently not!
You still need to burnish each coar with 0000 steel wool. Three coats will probably get you where you want it. But......................................... :hmm:
