What, how, and if…??? A ramrod question

[Cornbread]

Hello all,

My next “fix” involves a metal ramrod on an 1816 musket. It keeps sliding and falling out of the channel any time it isn’t at an angle that’s not perpendicular or less than horizontal.

I can’t tell if a portion of the ramrod has broken loose in there because the ramrod (original) has a noticeable “step” and appears never to have been threaded. The “step” on the ramrod looks to be broken enough to be held if there’s wood down in the channel. And if I loose my grip when in the barrel, it disappears instead of having at least 1-2” to hold onto (not counting the ball, powder and paper of a cartridge).

So how does one get an antique metal rammer to stay put in a stock not equipped with a spoon to hold it in place? I don’t have a rod thin enough to feed in the rammer channel let alone one that could hold a ball puller and a drill bit just doesn’t reach that far.

Any tips or tricks you can share would be GREAT!

Much obliged,
James

 

[ColonialRifleSmith]

Hello all,

My next “fix” involves a metal ramrod on an 1816 musket. It keeps sliding and falling out of the channel any time it isn’t at an angle that’s not perpendicular or less than horizontal.

I can’t tell if a portion of the ramrod has broken loose in there because the ramrod (original) has a noticeable “step” and appears never to have been threaded. The “step” on the ramrod looks to be broken enough to be held if there’s wood down in the channel. And if I loose my grip when in the barrel, it disappears instead of having at least 1-2” to hold onto (not counting the ball, powder and paper of a cartridge).

So how does one get an antique metal rammer to stay put in a stock not equipped with a spoon to hold it in place? I don’t have a rod thin enough to feed in the rammer channel let alone one that could hold a ball puller and a drill bit just doesn’t reach that far.

Any tips or tricks you can share would be GREAT!

Much obliged,
James

When I have a loose rod, I just run a leather lace through the thimble. Problem solved. For a permanent fix, super glue leather lacing at the pin end of the thimble where they come together. Tightens it right up and it's out of sight. Semper Fi.

 

[ord sgt]

Track of the Wolf has a replacement metal ram rod for 1803 and 1814 model firearms. 33 inches long, threaded on one end.

 

[waksupi]

Putting in a slight bend should hold it.

 

[hawkeye2]

33" is too short for a 40" barrel. Your 1816 rammer should be 40" long, no more no less, and threaded on one end.

 

[Cornbread]

Thanks so much for the replies.

All are good and save a HECK of a lot of money buying an original that is 41+ inches long. Mine is 39.5 hence the lack of grip or having anything to hold onto.

Cheers,
James

 

[hawkeye2]

If yours is 39.5" long it is likely broken or has been shortened. The correct rammer for your gun should be 42", same as the barrel. Yes a big screw-up on my part! S&S has them.

Product Detail

 

[new2bp]

Solution is the original or close for show, range rod or other replacement for actual use. Sufficiently long ramrod is not just a loading tool it is safety equipment. Safety trumps originality.

 

[Cornbread]

Thank you gents!

I did see S&S and Lodgewood have them. Both appear threaded too.

I wonder how I can check down there? How did the arsenals or contractors cut that ramrod channel? When I get a new one, the end is gonna stick 1-2 inches past the muzzle I fear.

 

[hawkeye2]

Not unless there is a broken piece of ramrod or just plain dirt down there. I don't know about the 1816s but the 55, 61 & 63 rifle muskets have a steel plate in the stock to stop the ramrod from driving into the wood. You could get a straightened coat hanger and put it in from the entry pipe and measure the depth of the hole that way. That dimension added to the distance from the pipe to the end of the muzzle will tell you if the hole is clear or not. Assuming your barrel is not cut and is 42" long the repro rammers will end flush with the muzzle when in the stock.

 

[TDM]

I’d probe around with a coat hanger as @hawkeye2 said, could be your broken tip or debris. If you have access to a borescope you could tell for sure.

 

[SOLANCO]

I have a magnet on a telescoping wand. Hardware stores sell them for retrieving metal bits from awkward places. I do not remember it being expensive and if part of your rod is down that hole it might be useful.

 

[SOLANCO]

I have a magnet on a telescoping wand. Hardware stores sell them for retrieving metal bits from awkward places. I do not remember it being expensive and if part of your rod is down that hole it might be useful.

 

[Cornbread]

AHHHH!….a magnet! I got them around the workbench…completely forgot about that.
And I wish I had a borescope. Maybe now’s the time to get one?

See, there’s always more than one way to skin cats (aka, the other white meat)!

Thanks again so much!
James