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What is Wrong in this Picture?

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Whats wrong in the pic, get rid of that cut agate and use a real flint, there called flint locks not agate locks, just saying.

It comes down to Price and /or Availability, now Brandon Flints have become harder to source and more expensive plus overseas freight costs (for we Aussies) then we don't have the luxury of being 100% Purists.
 
When I fit a new flint leather I chew on it a little to soften it , this lets the leather mould itself to the flint better when it dries .
Any of you use lead to hold the flint ?. I tried it with my Charleville and found it trended to work loose in the big heavy lock , tried lead sheet about 1/16" and that worked but not well , Lead may be more historically correct but I'll stick to thin veg tanned leather . Old glove leather also works well soft , pliable and strong ( pigskin ?) .
Changing the thickness of the leather by doubling it on part of one surface or adding a piece at the back of the flint on one surface and the front on the other surface etc can fine tune the position of your flint strike on the frizzen face.
 
Have been considering buying a flinter . After reading some really good replies here , might try considering it a might longer , before getting my feet wet !!

Consider how often and how many shots you'll do with a Flinter, then how many Flints you'll need over a set period of time; lets say a 12 month period.

You can do plenty of dry firing practise with a wooden "flint" fitted, to train hold and omit flinching at no cost to your stock of Flints.
 
When I fit a new flint leather I chew on it a little to soften it , this lets the leather mould itself to the flint better when it dries .
Any of you use lead to hold the flint ?. I tried it with my Charleville and found it trended to work loose in the big heavy lock , tried lead sheet about 1/16" and that worked but not well , Lead may be more historically correct but I'll stick to thin veg tanned leather . Old glove leather also works well soft , pliable and strong ( pigskin ?) .
Changing the thickness of the leather by doubling it on part of one surface or adding a piece at the back of the flint on one surface and the front on the other surface etc can fine tune the position of your flint strike on the frizzen face.

I've used both leather and lead sheet, the trick with lead is to cut out a T shaped fit to suit the size of flint you use, then bend the tail of the T in half so the Flint is pocketed lengthwise, moulding the lead tight around the Flint itself, then fold both wings of the T similarly around the sides of the Flint, again moulding the lead tight across the Flint.
If its done right you will have a firm secure "cased" Flint in the **** Jaws thats about as good as it gets.
 
To get my flint to set back in the jaw, I punch a hole in the leather.
 

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I am totally new to flintlocks. I just bought this Lyman GPs rifle and have not shot it yet. The rifle is in great shape for being used except for the pan area. In the photo it shows an area where the flint has been striking and caused some pitting. Before I shoot it, I would like to know that the flint is positioned correctly. Any suggestions for a new guy would be appreciated.
Thanks and a Merry Christmas
Ditch the sawed flints and get some good English ones. Smaller size, too.
Will spark a lot better and are probably cheaper.
 
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