What is your procedure……

[Ben Meyer]

I usually wipe the Flint as well. I always poke a pin thru the touch hole then wipe the underside of the Flint with a cleaning patch, then prime, then shoot.

 

[Coinneach]

Thank you, Banjoman, for the information. If I do get a flintlock I have no plans on making it my primary squirrel rifle. It will be for fun shooting. I might get one for a squirrel rifle but with the intention of getting it converted to a percussion.

I do find Flintlocks interesting and no doubt they are fun shoot, thus my interest.

Take your time to research and determine what is the best option for a FL Rifle /Smoothbore to suit your need, a good quality Lock should be a priority its one of those proverbial "cant make a silk purse out of a sows ear" things.
A poor Lock will frustrate even the most patient guy and eventually shy him off Flintlocks.

If you enjoy tinkering with ML's (as I do) then FL's are rewarding and enjoyable, in all honesty theyre easy to maintain and ultra reliable once you've adjusted to them. My advice is to bide your time and squirrel your $ away while you work out the right Lock worth the money, then identify what ML's are fitted or offered as kits with the Lock you settle on.
Of course a good quality Barrel follows on a close second in priority.

 

[M. De Land]

Locks are are as different/individual as people an one wants to choose and tune those that have a pleasant, reliable disposition. An ornery, disagreeable lock is about as welcome as the same traits in a person.
When match shooting I pressure flake after every relay as this promotes consistency of spark generation and speed of ignition which translates to more points scored over a match cycle.
Pressure flaking is far more reliable and precise than is any form of percussion or nipping sharpening! It also greatly extends flint life.
I often pressure flake shapen while the flint is still in the **** against a popcycle stick backing the lower edge. One can usually pop off a row of small chips clear out to each corner which tend to snap off with any form or percussion of nipping.
Pressure flaking does several important things to a flint edge. First it lowers the edge each time so the flint strikes a different place on the frizzen to wear more evenly.
Secondly, it sets up a strengthening ridge between each flake lessening the chance of flint fracture.
Thirdly it allows the edge to be sharpened out to each corner without breaking them off.
The same characteristics would be applicable to hunting.

Pressure flaking "raises" not lowers the edge with each new row of chips flaked off, my bad!
One other thing I like to do is load leaving a close fitting, soft black wire, round ended pick in the flash hole. This insures a clear flash hole plus is a safety from any spark setting the charge off while loading. Contrary to some thinking the flash hole does not need to be full of powder or spilling out into the pan to work effectively.

 

[M. De Land]

Still kicking around the idea of getting a flintlock as a secondary ML and for fun. So, I’m still collecting information from some of you hardcore flintlock fans. One of which is the result of watching many videos and seeing misfires. Some of those was determined to be due to the flint. After fiddling with, or replaced the flint, those rifles fired. I fully realize that less than ideal locks can be problematic.

This brings up an interesting point.

What is your procedure, in terms of how long to run a flint before a misfire?

Is this something that is learned by simply knowing from experience just how far a flint can go on a specific rifle?

Do you change the flint out before it’s past its useful life span or do you continue shooting until a misfire?

Do you remove the flint before a misfire then try to reform it for future use?

I see the kits come with Colarain barrels but lower down on Tracks parts list I see you can still order a Green Mtn barrel which is certified 1137 barrel steel not the 12L14 Colerains are made of which is not certified for barrel steel.
I order both the GM barrel and Chambers/ Siler deluxe lock both of which I recommend for top quality parts choice.

 

[Harry Marinakis]

A flintlock as secondary ML?

I thought a flintlock is primary, secondary, and tertiary.

 

[ETipp]

Take your time to research and determine what is the best option for a FL Rifle /Smoothbore to suit your need, a good quality Lock should be a priority its one of those proverbial "cant make a silk purse out of a sows ear" things.
A poor Lock will frustrate even the most patient guy and eventually shy him off Flintlocks.

If you enjoy tinkering with ML's (as I do) then FL's are rewarding and enjoyable, in all honesty theyre easy to maintain and ultra reliable once you've adjusted to them. My advice is to bide your time and squirrel your $ away while you work out the right Lock worth the money, then identify what ML's are fitted or offered as kits with the Lock you settle on.
Of course a good quality Barrel follows on a close second in priority.

Thanks, Coinneach. IF I get one it will be a Kibler. Through research I've found that some locks are problematic, generally speaking.

I'm in no hurry to get a FL. Gathering up as much information as I can at this time before making a decision.

 

[reddogge]

A flintlock as secondary ML?

I thought a flintlock is primary, secondary, and tertiary.

We talkin' duck wing feathers?

 

[M. De Land]

A flintlock as secondary ML?

I thought a flintlock is primary, secondary, and tertiary.

Had to look up that last word and my son is a geologist . Never heard him use the term before. I'd like to see what a 40 million year old flint gun looks like ! Probably shoots flint knapped balls patched with brontosaurus hide patches.

 

[Coinneach]

Thanks, Coinneach. IF I get one it will be a Kibler. Through research I've found that some locks are problematic, generally speaking.

I'm in no hurry to get a FL. Gathering up as much information as I can at this time before making a decision.

If I was over there, I'd be focussing on a Kibler as well theyve become the Rolls Royce of ML kits IMHO.

I'm partial to the Woodsrunner myself.

 

[Harry Marinakis]

Had to look up that last word and my son is a geologist . Never heard him use the term before. I'd like to see what a 40 million year old flint gun looks like ! Probably shoots flint knapped balls patched with brontosaurus hide patches.

LOL
Tertiary also means third in order or level

 

[wiscoaster]

LOL
Tertiary also means third in order or level

Ya, and now there's quaternary, too.

 

[45man]

I use a hunk of deer antler to Knap but have also found a large old fashioned iron nail will also grab the rock, it must be iron.

 

[Hatman/2nd line]

Still kicking around the idea of getting a flintlock as a secondary ML and for fun. So, I’m still collecting information from some of you hardcore flintlock fans. One of which is the result of watching many videos and seeing misfires. Some of those was determined to be due to the flint. After fiddling with, or replaced the flint, those rifles fired. I fully realize that less than ideal locks can be problematic.

This brings up an interesting point.

What is your procedure, in terms of how long to run a flint before a misfire?

Is this something that is learned by simply knowing from experience just how far a flint can go on a specific rifle?

Do you change the flint out before it’s past its useful life span or do you continue shooting until a misfire?

Do you remove the flint before a misfire then try to reform it for future use?

Hi, been shooting flintlocks for years and like all the others on here just can't be beat! I'd recommend a SMR from Kibler for your squirrels, had one and it was a dandy, fast ignition and a straight shooter. I have a woodsrunner now and a colonial but when I had the SMR I couldn't get over how fast the ignition was with the set triggers. Get one, you won't be sorry!

 

[Mike in FL]

I go the simple way. I shoot at targets until the flint needs changing or knapped. If I go hunting, I put in a new flint and save the used one if it has life left in it. However, I do test the new hunting flint with one hammerfall to make sure it sparks well.

 

[M. De Land]

Pressure flaking "raises" not lowers the edge with each new row of chips flaked off, my bad!
One other thing I like to do is load leaving a close fitting, soft black wire, round ended pick in the flash hole. This insures a clear flash hole plus is a safety from any spark setting the charge off while loading. Contrary to some thinking the flash hole does not need to be full of powder or spilling out into the pan to work effectively.

The other thing the soft wire round ended flash hole pic/plug does is create a compressed powder tunnel clear through the main charge (because it's left in while pressing the ball down on the charge) for the flash from the pan to access. It is inserted clear through the flash channel,across the bore and stopping on the far barrel wall. That is the reason soft wire and a round end is used. My guess is this makes for more efficient ignition of the main charge because of greater area of access from the middle of the charge.
The wire pic/plug clears the flash channel fouling and will not spear the far barrel wall. The other end is cut long enough to be rolled up into a flat rope coil for a finger purchase. It also acts as a safety against accidental ignition while loading by full plugging the flash hole.
This is working well in my flint guns and should be tried in my opinion. Mine don't have a lanyard yet an can be easily lost when withdrawn but that will be corrected with some braided fish line soon.

 

[CyrusP]

I’m heavy into flintlocks now. My cap rifles, shotgun and revolvers are sitting idly by. I’m keeping one of my PH Enfields (likely 2 band) and selling my Musketoon. When Civil War peaks my interest I’m sure they’ll come out for a bit but my Kibler SMR and newly acquired NWTG occupy my mind now and likely for a long time.

 

[Sidney Smith]

I toss the flint when it doesn't feel sharp anymore and or it starts not dumping sparks, whichever comes first. I don't waste my time knapping, once dull bye bye, then fresh flint.To me knapping is like trying to reuse a paper towel.

 

[M. De Land]

I toss the flint when it doesn't feel sharp anymore and or it starts not dumping sparks, whichever comes first. I don't waste my time knapping, once dull bye bye, then fresh flint.To me knapping is like trying to reuse a paper towel.

Why not give them to folks who do knapp that can recover most of the life still left in them instead of wasting the resource.
That's like scraping a brand new car when the first tank of gas is empty!

 

[flatcreek]

If I do get a flintlock I have no plans on making it my primary squirrel rifle. It will be for fun shooting. I might get one for a squirrel rifle but with the intention of getting it converted to a percussion.

If you do get one, I doubt you'll change it after shooting a bit. Let's wait and see.

 

[M. De Land]

The other thing the soft wire round ended flash hole pic/plug does is create a compressed powder tunnel clear through the main charge (because it's left in while pressing the ball down on the charge) for the flash from the pan to access. It is inserted clear through the flash channel,across the bore and stopping on the far barrel wall. That is the reason soft wire and a round end is used. My guess is this makes for more efficient ignition of the main charge because of greater area of access from the middle of the charge.
The wire pic/plug clears the flash channel fouling and will not spear the far barrel wall. The other end is cut long enough to be rolled up into a flat rope coil for a finger purchase. It also acts as a safety against accidental ignition while loading by full plugging the flash hole.
This is working well in my flint guns and should be tried in my opinion. Mine don't have a lanyard yet an can be easily lost when withdrawn but that will be corrected with some braided fish line soon.

I sure would be interested to have Larry Pletcher test the ignition speed of this method I'm investigating of leaving a tunnel through the charge ignited by the flash from the pan powder, level or banked against the vent. I'm guessing (wondering) if the flash through an empty clear vent will be faster than the burn through of the vent full of the load (main charge) powder.