What Jag is better for wiping?

[xbowman]

Which Jag is better for wiping/cleaning? Slotted or Cleaning/Loading Jag?

 

[Stumpkiller]

A long necked button jag of bore size (less just enough for a tight fit with the patch).

The little extra length gives you more to hold on to, and a spit wipe is what gets stuck 99% of the time, so that's when the extra length can save your day.

I don't own any slotted jags large enough for my muzzleloaders.

PS ~ Tuck one corner of the patch under the jag shoulder when screwing it to the rod and you'll never loose a patch in the bore.

 

[Norskie]

Never used a slotted jag on a muzzle loader. I'd be doubtful about getting into the 'corners' of the breech. 'Jag' refers to the shape that grabs the patch and holds it to the bore so it can clean most effectively. A lot of them double as loading tools, so you have one less thing to fuss with.

 

[Deadeye]

You should have one ,like Stumpy pictured, on the front end of your ramrod. Use it for loading and cleaning. Have never lost a patch off one of these. Another handy gizmo is a T handle to screw on the other end of your ramrod, carry it in your pouch.

 

[roundball]

Another handy gizmo is a T handle to screw on the other end of your ramrod, carry it in your pouch.

Amen...I don't go hunting without one.

PS:
There is another one called a "Super Jag" which is a normal tapered shank jag, except it's 4" long instead of 1.5"...effectively extends the length of the ramrod when it's screwed on.

 

[Pittsburghunter]

xbowman, I use the jag shown as well but also use a little tool known as worm to make sure I clean and dry the concave parts of the breech.

What I do is after cleaning the bore using the jag I put a saturated patch into the bore loose and then force it down to the breech with the worm and twist the ramrod clockwize for 5-10 turns. I then simply pull that patch up with the worm and then do the same thing again with a dry patch.

I follow that up with on last dry patch for the bore using the jag and it is time for oil.

 

[sneakon]

It is important that the jags have steel threaded shanks. Brass will twist off eventually as happened to me last week. :cursing: I'm waiting for my CO2 discharger to arrive in the mail.

 

[netoleon]

There's only one good use I've found for a "loop" ( got one for free with a cleaning rod ). Many of the Plains/Hawken rifle repros come with a "patent breech", which is a reduced circumference combustion chamber. The regular jag ( sized to the gun's bore ) won't touch it, but you can get in there with a slotted end. Other than that, it can't do much unless you use a giant-sized patch.

Head's up for smoothbore use - you may need to take a little off the outside of your button jag if it's a close match your bore. Mine ( just like those in Mssr. Stumpkiller's image ) got stuck far too often, and tore every patch, until I gave it a polish with some emery. In rifles, the patch will squeeze into the grooves, so it isn't a problem with most cleaning patch/jag combos.

 

[Mad Professor]

It is important that the jags have steel threaded shanks. Brass will twist off eventually as happened to me last week. :cursing: I'm waiting for my CO2 discharger to arrive in the mail.

If it's percussion a pinch of powder under the nipple and a cap will allow you to shoot out the broken jag, no need for CO2. Point in safe direction.

 

[paulvallandigham]

I have hung up a couple of jags in my days because my touchhole liner was extending into the barrel. I also had a jag that was a little too big for the bore with a patch. At the very least this is a two man job. If you can find a stout rope, and a tree, or post, you can tie the butt end of the gun to the tree and pull on the ramrod to get it out. Put a little water or lube down the barrel to dampen the patch, and the barrel before pulling. If you don't have a long enough stick, take a leather thong, or narrow belt, soak it in water, and then wrap the leather around the stick three time, and pull on the end. Three wraps with the leather will give a good grip on the rod, and allow you to use your full strength, or the breaking strength of the leather to pull the rod and jag out. If the jag separates, or breaks off, then shoot it out as the Mad Professor suggests. I have, on one occasion, removed my touch hole liner, used a small screw driver to lever the jag forward enough to put some 4F powder in behind the jag. Then replace the touch hole liner, prime and fire. The jag came out, and I threw it away. Took me longer to get the threaded portion that broke off in my ramrod ferrel out of that, than it did to get the jag out of the gun! I no longer attempt to run a patch down the barrel in one long stroke, I run it down in stages so I know I can get it out when I finally get it down to the chamber. Just move it back and forth in the barrel until you reach the bottom. The barrel will clean easier, and be more thoroughly cleaned. I now dry the barrel with a patch soaked in alcohol, so that I don't put dry patches down the barrel anymore. Extracting a jag once is enough.