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What lock is this

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Crow#21957

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I was thinking this was a L&R. This lock does not match the pic on their website. I will call them tomorrow.I just feel that the spring is weak. Probably jut me and my being use to my large silers. It takes twice the force to **** the silers Than this lock.

Le t s add this to this post.I removed the strike Ron from a fire starter. Left magnesium there. That rod sparks great wih a small flat steel ran across it but that same rod gives no spark when raked across frizzen. I don't understand all this, only think I csn figure is the frizzen is to hard fir this rod to spark
 

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Not much spark just a few sparks and they shoot forward not down into the pan. The flint is point straight down into the pan after fired. I lights the main charge but doesn't seem near as fast as my sliers. It leaves to much delay to suit this cranky ole fart.
 
Left magnesium there. That rod sparks great wih a small flat steel ran across it but that same rod gives no spark when raked across frizzen.
Well no kidding.
The frizzen is supposed to be softer than the rock,, it's the hard rock that scraps molten metal from the frizzen.
It's the same with a flint and steel fire starter,, the rock is harder than the steel.
WHY are you so stuck on "magnesium" with so many of your questions as applied to traditional ML's?
A proper temper frizzen will not strike sparks from magnesium,, The rock will,, but NOT the frizzen!
Frizzens are soft, rocks are hard,, that's how it works.
A "Steel" used to sharpen knives is harder than the knifes blade metal,, that's how they sharpen the knife.
Of course the "steel" will make magnesium burn,,
There is no "magnesium" in traditional firearms.

Please try to grasp the concept of Rockwell Hardness and how it's achieved;
https://www.google.com/search?q=roc...gDkgEBNZgBAKABAcABAcgBCg&sclient=gws-wiz-serp
 
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I would agree that it looks like an L&R Trade lock.

I have a couple of guns with L&R percussion locks, and they work fine. My only experience with an L&R flint lock is a right-hand Queen Anne I have on a fowling piece. It did not spark well, and it ate flints.

My experience is not unusual. A lot of people love L&Rs, and a lot of people don’t. Some view them as assembled lock kits. I can say that they can be made to work very well, and L&R should be commended for keeping their various locks in production and available to us.

There is more to it than just the hardness of the frizzen. The springs need to be “balanced,” and bearing surfaces should be polished. The sear nose/tumbler notch engagement may need attention. I don’t have the smarts to do this work myself, so I sent mine to Brad Emig, the “Lock Doctor” at Cabin Creek Muzzleloading, and now my Queen Anne works as it should… an excellent lock.

I’m sure there are people other than Brad doing this type of work, but I wish they would make themselves known. There is a definite need.

A proper tune-up may cost almost as much as a new lock. However, I can assure you it will be money well spent.

Notchy Bob
 

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