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What lock would you use for a custom build

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Joined
Dec 19, 2021
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Location
Beaver County, PA
I want a hawken half stock flintlock. I want it to a reliable hunting and shooting gun. Thinking I am going to have to build a custom to get what I want.
I actually want it in both 54 and 50 and maybe a smooth bore. My thoughts are build a nice stock and get a good lock. Then have 3 barrels to fit. Am I crazy ?
I originally was looking for a .54 Hawkin style flintlock made by t/c, Lyman, or investarms. Main reason is I want a better lock on it 3/4 vs 5/8 on the traditions.
It seems like there is fewer and fewer flintlock options.
So maybe I should just buy a lock and go from there.
 
Well, for brand/maker, you can't go wrong with a Chambers lock. He doesn't make a flintlock for the plains/rocky mountain style rifles, though.

If you really just want a half-stock, plains style flintlock, you could get a Lyman Great Plains Rifle. L&R makes a replacement/upgrade lock, and you can get the extra barrel. You'd have to have someone bore out the third barrel for a smooth bore, though. By the time you do all of that, you're certainly looking at the entry cost of a custom build.
 
I want a hawken half stock flintlock. I want it to a reliable hunting and shooting gun. Thinking I am going to have to build a custom to get what I want.
I actually want it in both 54 and 50 and maybe a smooth bore. My thoughts are build a nice stock and get a good lock. Then have 3 barrels to fit. Am I crazy ?
I originally was looking for a .54 Hawkin style flintlock made by t/c, Lyman, or investarms. Main reason is I want a better lock on it 3/4 vs 5/8 on the traditions.
It seems like there is fewer and fewer flintlock options.
So maybe I should just buy a lock and go from there.
Are you thinking about removing your lock & putting it on a different firearm when u want to use the other one? Why would u do that? Every time you do that your going to be wearing out the threads on the bolts & the lock plate, sooner or later it will start to loosing up. Also a custom rifle is built around your lock, each part fits exactly in the stock. If your building 3 rifles don't skrimp buy 3 locks.
 
That is where I am stuck. I like the look and style of the hawken. Might have to wait and see if Kibler will be making a kit for hawken Flintlock. I have 2 flintlocks that work. Have had the one for close to 30 years it kills deer.
Might just have to buy one in 54 and change the lock.
How good are the L&R locks I have a 50 Traditions that the lock is a pain in the butt.
 
I have a
L&R RPL lock on a cva mountain rifle rpl #01 and it hasn't let me down yet. Doing a Traditions Kentucky build and thinking of putting one on it. I do see the cost has gone up since I bought the first one.
 
Why a 50 and 54? not enough difference in these two cal. I would just go with a .54. My Lyman GPR that I bought a long time ago came with a .54 cal barrel. I had a .40 cal barrel fitted to it and I have not shot the .54 barrel in 20 years or more. The only reason that rifle gets shot is because it is my only .40 cal percussion rifle and is very accurate.

Fleener
 
When you say flintlock halfstock Hawken, do you mean a gun patterned after a J&S Hawken? If so, I’m sure you know that you’re creating something new, something reasoned, not something documented.

You’re stuck with an L&R lock- there are not a lot of options for a round tailed flintlock.

Your rifle will weigh 9 pounds plus unless you want to “improve on what is historical. Maybe 10 or 11.

As said above there’s no need for a .50 and a .54. They are much alike.
 
Rich wrote:

As said above there’s no need for a .50 and a .54. They are much alike.

Agree
But
A 25-06 is much like
A 30-06
But dang
They are different

Jim in La Luz
😎

A 25-06 won’t do much that a 30-06 can do, and a 30-06 can do things a 25-06 cannot do. Same with .50 and .54.
 
Ok gentlemen I started this thread to ask about locks and what I am looking for I realize that Hawken rifles are historically percussion guns.
I live in PA and have a flintlock only season. I realize what I am looking for is probably only going to Happen if I build it or have one built. Maybe I should of said I want a 1792 contract rifle with a half stock and 28 inch barrel. Plus I want it in 54 Cal.
 
Is there a company I can order a kit the way I want it ??? I was thinking I should by the best lock I can get. And build what I want around the lock. Is that a wrong way of looking at it ??
 
I thought about that multiple barrels for one stock before, but got over that pretty fast when I thought about how I decide what Im going to use for the day. Often that decision comes just as Im about to head out the door. So I just got dedicated firearms. Theyre probably better investments than a multi barrel setup, at least I think so. Others might not.
 
It was a thought. I was looking at it like owning a contender with multiple barrels.
The problem would be If one piece malfunctions or brakes it would mean all the barrels would be useless.
 
So, for perspective, I’ve done something like what you are proposing. In 1977 I built a Sharon Trade Rifle kit in .50. Then I imagined I needed a .54. So I bought a Sharon breech and a GM barrel and made it work. I then bought a 20 ga barrel and repeated the process. I did use the 20 ga for a few years till I got a dedicated smoothbore. I stopped using the .50 for deer.

Big challenges with setting up swapping barrels:
The patent breeches or tangs must be IDENTICAL or they will not fit the inlets. Not close. IDENTICAL.
The underlug and wedge fit must be IDENTICAL. Not close. IDENTICAL.
The drilling and countersink depth of the tang screws, if you’re using a simple breech, must be very close or you’ll need different tang screws for each barrel. If you’re using a hooked breech, each barrel must be mated to the same breech and fit very much the same.

With my percussion drum and nipple setup, each barrel had to seat exactly the same into the cutout for the drum in the lockplate.
 

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