What to expect with a flintlock

[Pete G]

What should I expect to be different about them.

1st They are much more addictive.
2nd Buy the best quality you can find. Once you gain some experience you can diddle with the frustrations of a lesser quality lock.
3rd Follow through, Follow through, Follow through!!!

 

[jamieorr]

FWIW, here's my experience as a newcomer with a production gun. I shoot a Lyman Trade Rifle in flint (I expect all the Lyman use the same basic lock?) and I've found the lock to work well - it functions smoothly and sparks well. If it doesn't spark, then it's time for a new flint. If I get a flash in the pan, it's usually because I didn't use the vent pick or prime properly (my spring loaded primer clogs up in high humidity).

Flint life is improving as I get better at setting it up. Last time out I fired 30 shots on a new flint, and it still looks just about new. This is an English flint from TOW.

Loyalist Dave gave Lyman a "good" rating and Chambers a "great". Since my next lock will be a Chambers, I'm looking forward to it!

Jamie

 

[AZbpBurner]

Differences are significant:

When you take your flintlock to the range and dump your bag of flints into a mud puddle, you can still fire off 50 rounds that afternoon.

When you go to the range and you dump your tin of caps into the same puddle, you will likely just pack it in for the day and stop at that greasy Chinese Buffet on the way home.

Just more proof that Flintlocks are the healthier choice.

 

[PaulTBarton]

...
Now several times yall have mentioned the quality of a lock. How would I know the difference. Keep in mind that I would have to order a gun as there is no place around to buy one locally.

As others have said, Chambers, who makes a large number of different style flintlocks probably ranks as the best locks.
His company makes the "Siler" lock which is the most talked about and most common.
Locks by Davis Co. and L&R Lock Co. make a large number of different styles and they are good as well.

After mentioning these "best locks" the unfortunate part of the story is, these locks are the kind that most custom rifle builders use.
Your finding a custom gun where you live is going to be close to finding hens teeth.

Getting to the guns you are more likely to find, they will all be made by the big factories or sold by the big importers.

The list given by Loyalist Dave in his post above is a good place to start with these guns.
To keep you from having to look them up, here is what he said:

I think the best "bang for the buck" for a factory flintlock for hunting or shooting is the Lyman Great Plains Rifle in .54, and in a long rifle it's the Pedersoli Frontier aka the Cabela's Blue Ridge Hunter in .54 (look for either when they are on sale).

He didn't mention Thompson Center and that omission was probably because all of the early TC flintlocks had a bad habit of being flint bashers. That is, the early TC's often broke off their flints razor sharp edge within 8-15 shots.
This was due to a problem with the cock (hammer) and frizzen design.

TC redesigned their flintlock in the '90's and the redesigned locks work very well.

To know if you are looking at a new TC flintlock or an old one, the old one will have a color case hardened frizzen on it and the lower part of its cock (hammer) will have gently curving, graceful sweeping S shaped bend.

The new redesigned TC flintlock frizzen is not color case hardened. Rather it is just a Black Oxide color.
The cock also lacks the sweeping S shaped bend in the lower area. It was replaced by more of a "blob". Check out this photo to see the blob shape I'm talking about.



If your looking at a TC, remember: Blob shaped cock and black frizzen = GOOD
"S" shaped cock and color case frizzen = BAD

Now, to the CVA and Tradition imports.

The very early CVA flintlocks were basically pretty crummy.
The locks didn't have a support for the tumbler the mainspring pushes against, the frizzens were often low carbon steel with a thin case hardening and they tended to eat flints like popcorn.

In the '80's and '90's, the locks were improved and by the time Traditions took over the job of importing them they were actually pretty good.

Pretty good still leaves a lot to be desired.

L&R Lock has come to the rescue with these and several other factory made flintlocks by making a rather good replacement flintlock for them.
It isn't a "drop in" lock for some of the guns it is designed to be used in but with some minor wood removal to clear the new locks inners it will drop into place.

The only problem with these replacement locks IMO is they cost about $150 and often the rifles they are made to work on aren't worth a lot more than the cost of the lock.

Hope this helps.

Yes, it helps tremendously. I now know what to look for in T/C flinter, hammers, etc. Apparently I have the older one. I have replaced the frizzen but may replace the lock with that L/R from TOTW.

THANKS!
Paul

 

[Zonie]

You might want to contact Thompson Center aka Smith & Wesson and ask them if they have any of the replacement hammers. (I would call it a "cock" but that would confuse S&W people. In fact, they might take offense, thinking you were using a derogatory term.)

Just make real sure they understand you are talking about the Flintlock hammer, not the percussion hammer.

There was a time when TC would replace the cock and frizzen if the owner sent the lock in to them.

Who knows? Maybe they still will? :hmm:

Because there was a time when the company would replace the old parts for no cost, you might mention that you heard they used to do that.

If your REAL lucky they might even say, "We still do that. Just send in your old flintlock and we will fix it for free."

On the other hand, don't get your hopes up but it's worth a shot. :grin:

 

[Colin Sprute]

i replaced a renegade lock with a supposed drop in from L&R i must admitt it was worth it. but in know way does it drop in. and the people that tell you its just a few minutes job??? well maybe if you have done it before. the next thing i knew i'm goin to the hardware store and buyin a electric dremil and even with that it took some doin. not tryin to detour ya just tellin ya how it was for me.

 

[PaulTBarton]

I contacted those T/C folks via their website "Contact Us" email look-alike thingie. Apparently they don't have any parts left.

---
Subject: Thomson Flintlock Rifle.

We unfortunately no longer carry those parts, but a company that might is called Track of the wolf (www.trackofthewolf.com) and I would suggest contacting them for the parts as they should hopefully have them.

Smith&Wesson values its customers and we are happy to have served you today. Please do not hesitate to contact us should you require further assistance.

Regards, Nate
---

Paul

 

[Old Creek]

They take some practice to learn to ignore a few of their idiosyncrasies.

First, the first time shooter will notice there is the very slight lag between pulling the trigger, hearing the flint hit the frizzen, seeing the flash and hearing the "Poof" of the priming lighting and then feeling the recoil of the gun firing.

I think it's interesting that all of these things happen in much less than 1/4 of a second but your mind will notice each of them.

With practice, you can learn to ignore all of these things (which are distracting).

You will learn to hold the gun on target and concentrate on the sight and target alignment much longer than you ever have done before.

You will learn that any flinch will cause your shot to go everywhere except where you want it to.

Although the old time flintlock shooters will deny this, there will be times when the lock works fine and the priming powder lights but the barrel refuses to fire.

If your flint is sharp and adjusted properly and the prime is good and there is fresh powder at the vent hole, usually the gun will fire. But not always.

Enough of these negative things.

On the other side of the coin, there is something about successfully shooting a flintlock that exists with no other gun. A satisfaction that comes from knowing you have done everything right.

You have done what many modern shooters who are used to instant gratification will never do with their guns.

Once you've learned to shoot a flintlock accurately, all of your training will transfer over to your other guns and the improvement in your marksmanship will boggle your friends minds.

That's a good reason to learn to shoot a flintlock right there, but if you are like many of us, those other guns will loose much of their attraction.

Rather than reaching for your modern super duper "hits anything I can see every time" gun you will find yourself reaching for the flintlock and shooting bag with a small smile on your face.

well said sir!! :hatsoff:

creek

 

[Historian]

Well if you put your caps into a waterproof film container that would'nt happen.

I like shooting both flintlock and caplock. Small game I use my flinter .32 On waterfowl, dove and quail I prefer my caplock 20 ga.

With either type of lock, Flinter or Caplock the quality of the lock makes a huge difference. Take the time to do your research and spend your money wisely. You will enjoy the outcome much better. The nice gentlemen on this forum have tons of wisdom to impart so have some fun and burn some powder. :wink: