What to use for a powder measure?

[azmntman]

I believe there is a permanent note or sticky or whatever ever done by our late Zonie that lists TONS of empty cartridge's casings and the amount of powder they hold. Find the list and there will be a cartridge that will hold the amount of powder you wanna load.

 

[SDSmlf]

35 grains is way too light for a .54

Curious what issues you had with 35 grains of powder in a 54 caliber? Sounds like the OP is just learning how to shoot muzzleloaders. Getting on paper and developing good shooting form are more important, at least to me, that working up an accurate hunting load. That will come if one stays with it.

I have found 30-40 grains to be about ideal in 50, 54 and 58 caliber guns for a punching paper, plinking or removing squirrel’s heads out to 35 yards or so. Find that if I play with the load a bit I can find a 30 yard zero without any sight adjustment from my 85 yard zero with a hunting load.

 

[oldwood]

One thing , always check the accuracy of adjustable measures , with a scale. Over the years , I've accumulated six or so , and to my amazement , only one of them is 100 % accurate. Black powder measurement , is not as important as smokeless powder , but two of my black powder measures were almost 5 gr. off. Not important to most folks , but it just bugs me for that much inaccuracy.

 

[SDSmlf]

I believe there is a permanent note or sticky or whatever ever done by our late Zonie that lists TONS of empty cartridge's casings and the amount of powder they hold. Find the list and there will be a cartridge that will hold the amount of powder you wanna load.

Check the link I posted in the post before yours.

 

[azmntman]

Yep thats the one!!

 

[Archer 756]

Dixie Gun Works used to have a chart for homemade powder measures. (From brass shell casing , I mean) and I'm guessing they still do.I have several measures made from a 38 and a 44.

Yes, Dixie still has list it's in the rear section of catalog.

 

[DuncNZ]

In use, the thumb is placed to block the nozzle, with the nozzle pointed down - the valve is then activated to drop powder into the nozzle, then closed so the powder charge can be transferred into the muzzle, downbore.

This is potentially the most dangerous way to load a muzzle loader , even if you have a flask with what was called a flame proof loading gate .You can measure your powder this way , but you must load from a separate device / tube . I don't believe there is a range or muzzle loading club any where in the world who would let you load like this , and if there is I certainly would not like to shoot there .

 

[Okie Hog]

Adjustable powder measure for black powder handguns:

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...ructed of,measure loads from 5 to 45 grains.
Adjustable powder measure for black powder rifles:

https://rmcoxyoke.com/product/adjustable-black-powder-measure/

 

[Highmark1]

Here are a couple I made of deer antler. 100 grains of 2f for hunting load. Produces minute of elk groups at 100yds with prb. Kinda crazy I know. Deer antler for Elk loads? Haha

 

[Dale Allen Raby]

I've got a little brass flask for dispensing powder, but what should I use to actually measure it (it's a .54 so I'd say maybe 35 grains of GOEX FFF)? Are there devices for that or should I just get a small tube and start counting.

For everyone who was following my old thread about the antique rifle I found, it's not safe to shoot. It's making a lovely wall decoration next to my Hawken reproduction that I'm shooting this weekend.

Thanks a lot, really looking forward to getting shooting!

Um... a "grain" is a unit of weight. There are 7000 to the pound if memory serves. In this context, it does NOT refer to a single grain of powder, so you cannot "count" them. Also, for black powder, it is generally a volumetric measure, not a true measure of weight. I.e.: the amount of say, 2f powder you put into a 90 grain measure may not actually weigh 90 grains on a scale and if you filled the same measure with 3f powder, it will definitely not weigh the same as the 90 grain charge of 2f powder.

This forum is a good place to start, but maybe you need to get a book or two on the subject. Read it cover to cover twice. Then go to the range. Listen to the greybeards, but take everything you hear with a grain of salt. There are people out there who will tell you things that are simply not true. My favorite is that "it is impossible to over-charge a muzzle-loader.... the excess powder will simply blow out the muzzle and burn in the air". That is only true to a certain point. In fact you CAN blow up your gun by putting too much powder in it.

Also, NEVER charge directly from a powder horn or some kind of flask.... even if it has a measure incorporated into it. You can use that measure to charge a Quick Shot or something, but if you dump the charge directly into the muzzle of a recently fired muzzle-loader, you run the risk of having a burning ember down in the bore igniting your charge. It will follow it right up to the flask.

Now you find that you are holding a grenade with no pin and no delay. If you survive the experience, there is a good chance that you will be referred to as "Lefty" for the rest of your life. This can and has happened.

Don't let bogeymen like me scare you off though. If you use a little common sense, shooting muzzle-loaders is quite safe and enjoyable.

 

[French Colonial]

Most flasks have a removable nozzle that can be cut to a length that will accept powder charges.

There are several different nozzle lengths available, if the one on your flask isn't long enough.

In use, the thumb is placed to block the nozzle, with the nozzle pointed down - the valve is then activated to drop powder into the nozzle, then closed so the powder charge can be transferred into the muzzle, downbore.

No No and NO

You are holding a flask full of powder and dropping the charge directly down the muzzle and if there is a spark where do you think your hand will be while the rest of you is in the ER

Always transfer the charge to a separate measure before dropping down the bore

 

[Loyalist Dave]

No No and NO

You are holding a flask full of powder and dropping the charge directly down the muzzle and if there is a spark where do you think your hand will be while the rest of you is in the ER

Always transfer the charge to a separate measure before dropping down the bore

↑ This is correct ↑

This might be an acceptable risk for some, on their first and only the first shot of the day....

Admittedly..., it may be a very rare thing, an ember in the barrel would mean that you are depending on that inexpensive, brass, reproduction valve, to stop the flame and hot gas and prevent the powder inside the flask from ignition and turning the flask into a grenade.

For a powder charger, which is the old term for a fixed measure, as it appears from what I've read that a powder measure was what we today call an "adjustable measure"....,
I have used turkey wing bone (still do).
I have used brass nozzles for a metal rifle flask, but attached the threaded portion to a wooden cap and thus made them "fixed".
I have used deer antler (still do).
I have repurposed a modern .45-70 brass cartridge case, by putting a steel eye-screw through the hole in the primer pocket, which closed that hole and gave a metal loop for a cord to attach it to my shooting bag.
I have used a piece of bamboo with one end closed due to the "joint" in the bamboo still being in place.
I have used manufactured, brass, set measures cast with a loop at the base for attachment of a cord.
Lastly I have a copper flask, for use with a hand gonne, that has a tube spout, AND a long cap, and the cap serves as a powder measure.

LD

 

[Billy Boy]

Um... a "grain" is a unit of weight. There are 7000 to the pound if memory serves. In this context, it does NOT refer to a single grain of powder, so you cannot "count" them. Also, for black powder, it is generally a volumetric measure, not a true measure of weight. I.e.: the amount of say, 2f powder you put into a 90 grain measure may not actually weigh 90 grains on a scale and if you filled the same measure with 3f powder, it will definitely not weigh the same as the 90 grain charge of 2f powder.

This forum is a good place to start, but maybe you need to get a book or two on the subject. Read it cover to cover twice. Then go to the range. Listen to the greybeards, but take everything you hear with a grain of salt. There are people out there who will tell you things that are simply not true. My favorite is that "it is impossible to over-charge a muzzle-loader.... the excess powder will simply blow out the muzzle and burn in the air". That is only true to a certain point. In fact you CAN blow up your gun by putting too much powder in it.

Also, NEVER charge directly from a powder horn or some kind of flask.... even if it has a measure incorporated into it. You can use that measure to charge a Quick Shot or something, but if you dump the charge directly into the muzzle of a recently fired muzzle-loader, you run the risk of having a burning ember down in the bore igniting your charge. It will follow it right up to the flask.

Now you find that you are holding a grenade with no pin and no delay. If you survive the experience, there is a good chance that you will be referred to as "Lefty" for the rest of your life. This can and has happened.

Don't let bogeymen like me scare you off though. If you use a little common sense, shooting muzzle-loaders is quite safe and enjoyable.

A weight of black powder especially a large charge, can vary a faie amount day to day based on the humidity present.

 

[Snake Pleskin]

I have a few. Some are brass, some are Antler.

 

[rp77469]

At the bench, I use an ancient Treso or Cash brass adjustable measure with the floppy funnel attached. Came with a screw in nipple/vent pick which I lost 2-3 decades ago. Never liked the ones where the cone slid over the measure, but that's personal preference because they work just fine. Once the load is determined (in grains by volume, not by weight) I usually make a measure for that rifle. I mostly compete in a rendezvous club, so everything is from the bag.

When I made the first measure back in the late 70's, I discovered a 3/8 drill bit would just fit down the adjustable powder measure. When I found the best load, I would drop the drill bit down the measure, add 1/8 or so, and mark that distance with a piece of tape. Drilling the antler then made the charge just a bit too large. Using the adjustable measure I'd add the correct charge I wanted, make a mark, dump the powder back in the horn and file off the excess length of antler. Works pretty good.

I use a 30g spout on a flask and a loading stand for my ROA at the public range. Not the most accurate load perhaps, but I like the recoil and the pistol range going silent on the first shot because the other shooters think someone's gun blew up.

This is how I do it. YMMV and probably does and that is perfectly OK. There's more than one way to skin a cat.

 

[Crooked Creek]

Don't know if this will help...

I watched eBay and picked up three different vintage "CVA Shooters Kit" accessory packs.
Got them for $45 to $55 each. The kits came with all the doodads you needed to start shooting BP including a powder measure.
I got two that were .50 cal and one that was .45 cal.
Got me back in the game pretty quick.

Might be worth a look if you use eBay.

Looks like this...

 

[Jay]

I would say a adjustable powder measurement is a good investment works for all different calibers and if you stay shooting muzzleloaders long enough odds are you gonna have a few different ones .But that’s just my one cent

 

[Johnny Tremain]

After using the Davenport Formula to fine out my max change, I cut a horn tip until it held the right charge, then I put a pin in at the minimum change. Inside of 100 yards I use the pinned load (54.5gr).
To reach out I use the full horn, which is 74.5gr.
It took about an hour to make it. That was in 2005, and its still going.

 

[Grenadier1758]

One thing , always check the accuracy of adjustable measures , with a scale. Over the years , I've accumulated six or so , and to my amazement , only one of them is 100 % accurate. Black powder measurement , is not as important as smokeless powder , but two of my black powder measures were almost 5 gr. off. Not important to most folks , but it just bugs me for that much inaccuracy.

When developing loads, choose one measure and use only that adjustable volumetric measure. I did a test on about 10 different measures and while I didn't get the extreme variation in weights compared to the volume setting, the different measures did throw a different weight of powder. Black powder will weigh virtually the same as the volume marking. Different powder brands will have different densities. Substitute powders will be 10% to 15% lighter in weight than black powder but have just about the performance based on volume of powder.

This is the adjustable powder measure and flask that I like. Any half inch measure should fit the valve if you want a different style, or a funnel can be added.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1023140946?pid=637942

 

[French Colonial]

↑ This is correct ↑

This might be an acceptable risk for some, on their first and only the first shot of the day....

Admittedly..., it may be a very rare thing, an ember in the barrel would mean that you are depending on that inexpensive, brass, reproduction valve, to stop the flame and hot gas and prevent the powder inside the flask from ignition and turning the flask into a grenade.

For a powder charger, which is the old term for a fixed measure, as it appears from what I've read that a powder measure was what we today call an "adjustable measure"....,
I have used turkey wing bone (still do).
I have used brass nozzles for a metal rifle flask, but attached the threaded portion to a wooden cap and thus made them "fixed".
I have used deer antler (still do).
I have repurposed a modern .45-70 brass cartridge case, by putting a steel eye-screw through the hole in the primer pocket, which closed that hole and gave a metal loop for a cord to attach it to my shooting bag.
I have used a piece of bamboo with one end closed due to the "joint" in the bamboo still being in place.
I have used manufactured, brass, set measures cast with a loop at the base for attachment of a cord.
Lastly I have a copper flask, for use with a hand gonne, that has a tube spout, AND a long cap, and the cap serves as a powder measure.

LD

I am with LD on this, anything that is a cylinder or can be made into a cylinder with a drill bit can most likely be turned in to a powder measure.

I have bought them and made them, you can use horn, antler, cartridge cases etc. etc.

I ran across quite a quantity of cane from cain-tuck-kee some time back and have used the joint for the bottom and have also glued a dowel of the correct size in a couple to make the size I want. If you size the outside of the cane to close to the bore size of the gun you can just dump it in without being worried about spillage.

I have a different bag for every gun and after developing a load the measure stays with the bag.

Use a measure!