What type of Mowrey?

[AndyL]

Just received this .54 Mowrey but would like to know more info. I posted in the wrong area before this one.
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/.../tid/282845/pid/1315370/post/1315370/#1315370

 

[Billnpatti]

Those Mowrey rifles were built by several different makers. The Texas maker was one of them. I have not seen a Mowrey that I did not want. If I were you, I'd start with a .530 ball, a pillow ticking patch. I like to use straight Balistol as my lube of choice but you can use whatever non-petroleum based lube you want. Olive oil might be a good lube to try. The powder that I would recommend is real black powder if you can get it. Since your rifle has a percussion lock, you can use a substitute powder if you cannot get the real stuff. The amount to start with would be 55 grains and work up in 5 grain increments until you find how much powder to use to get the tightest group.

When shooting a black powder gun, cleanliness is absolutely necessary if you are to keep your gun working. You will need to wash it out with soapy water to remove the corrosive crud left from either black powder or any of the substitutes. Be sure to keep the lock and hammer clean as well. After cleaning, you must make sure that everything is dry and then apply a good gun oil. An application of a paste wax will keep the stock looking good.

 

[AndyL]

Thanks. What are these worth? I bought pre lubed patches that are .015 thick, would these work? The gun store also sold me # 1075 percussion caps. I hope I'm on the right start. Where can in find a .53 ball? None of my local stores carry one.

 

[Billnpatti]

I don't know what they are selling for today. Condition is a major factor in determining its worth. They are no longer being made to the best of my knowledge.

I am not familiar with that cap designation. The correct cap size will depend on which nipple your rifle has. They came with a standard #11 rifle nipple but some folks would change out the original nipple with a musket nipple. The musket nipple is larger than a #11 nipple. It is highly unlikely that anyone would change the nipple and put in a #10 nipple since the #10 nipples are pistol or revolver nipples. What brand of caps do you have? That is not a number with which I am familiar.

Lead balls of all sizes are getting scarce and many stores which had them on their shelves are out of them. You may find some online at one of the muzzleloading stores such as Track of The Wolf or Dixie Gun Works.

I cast my own balls from scrap lead. I don't know if you are interested in doing this. If you are, you will need a few supplies. You will need to find a round ball mold for a .530 ball, a lead pot and a lead ladle. I prefer Lee lead pots because they are less expensive and work quite well. Lee molds are very good and will cast a nice ball. They, too, are probably the cheapest mold available. The best ladle is one with a spout made by Lyman. Lead is available from such sources as plumbers, roofers, etc. They usually have scrap soft lead left from jobs. I don't recommend wheel weights because they are too hard. They will work if you can't get anything else. Lead casters have to be scroungers.

 

[AndyL]

This is what they sold me.

 

[hanshi]

Best caps made, IMHO.

 

[bpd303]

Yep that's what I use with my Mowrey although any #11 will work. A couple of photos of the rifle & serial number will help ID when & who made it.

 

[AndyL]

 

[bpd303]

It is an original built by Bill Mowrey in Orney Texas. One of the better quality guns. The brass frames had a tendency to wear the frame where the main spring rests on it. It is an easy fix by placing a thin steel shim under the spring. Mine is very accurate and a pleasure to shoot. There are several threads about them with pictures of the action.
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/280141/post/1281719/hl//fromsearch/1/

 

[Billnpatti]

I know the brand but have never used them. I think what you have are #11 magnum caps. They are made in Germany and are possibly metric in size but are most quite likely close enough in size to American #11 caps that they will work just fine.


After looking at all of the photos of Mowrey rifles, I sure wish I had kept the one that I put together from parts that I got from Deer Creek Products in Waldron, IN and a from Long Hammock in Florida. It was a .45 and I sure wish I had kept it.

 

[bpd303]

Here is the thread that shows the action. To properly lubricate you will have to take the two side plate screws out to get to the action.
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...23/post/393898/hl/Mowrey/fromsearch/1/#393898

 

[Wes/Tex]

I believe that thick butt plate configuration was typical of only the first couple years of production. I will look though some of the older sources I have to be sure I'm not spreading on the MBBW however! :haha:

 

[bpd303]

I believe you are right about the butt plate, one of the reasons I think it was made by bill and not subsequent owners of the firm.

 

[AndyL]

Thank you guys for all of the links and info on this gun, it's a great addition to my gun collection. What really surprises me is the lack of literature on these Mowrey rifles. What I'm still having a hard time is placing a value. I see some for 200$ all the way up to 1k and I'm not sure why. Could it just be a price that's in 'the eye of the beholder' ?

 

[Zonie]

As Billnpatti mentioned, these were made by several different places over the years.

I believe the originals were made in Texas and they often bring a higher price.

Some of them are stocked in "Tiger Maple" (curly maple) and that raises the value.

There are steel receiver and brass receiver models with the steel bringing a higher price.

Then, there is condition. That can make a lot of difference.
Rust dings and dents can reduce the value while a flawless original finish can greatly increase it.

Not to be overlooked, we have the auction houses where people often pay far more than the item is worth and we've got a few folks who actually think their rifle is a 150 year old antique.
"My Grandaddy carried it in the Civil War! I know this is true cause ol' uncle Billy told me all about it an' ol' Billy warn't the kind to make up stuff like that."

Some of the Mowery rifles were made with fast twist barrels that are suitable for shooting slugs.
IMO, that would reduce the value but you never know. Some folks would pay more for that feature.

 

[AndyL]

I'm told shooting this gun with a .54 buffalo bullet that has a powder pocket is ok? No patch needed just load 80g and drop the bullet in. Has anyone herd of this?

 

[Zonie]

There are (or used to be) several different lead slugs that can be used in muzzleloaders.

Some are hollow based and some are not but none of them are used with a shooting patch.

They almost always have lube grooves or knurling that needs to have some sort of bullet lube.

Anything from Crisco to SPG bullet lube can be used.

Some of these slugs work better than others and it seems to depend on the gun as much as the powder load. Some guns like them and some guns don't.

IMO, the slugs add a lot of kick to the gun and they cost quite a bit compared with patched roundballs but if you want to shoot them, have fun.

 

[AndyL]

Would these be ok?

Powerbelt bullets

 

[bpd303]

Nope...

 

[Zonie]

You managed to choose a bullet we can't talk about (see forum rule # 6) http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showrules.php

Notice in my previous post I said "lead slugs".

There's several good reasons I said "lead slugs".

Not only are they sorta 'historic' (elongated bullets date back to the 1850's) but they won't damage the barrel of your gun.

Depending on the caliber there are (or were) bullets called Buffalo Bullets "Ball-etts", Minie's, Maxi-Balls and Maxi-Hunters.

There are (or were) bullet molds to cast many of these different bullets available if you want to save money and have a sub-hobby that can be enjoyable.

As you probably noticed, most of our members prefer the patched roundball for both target shooting, plinking and serious hunting.

Not only are the roundballs a whole lot cheaper to make/shoot but they work great out to a distance of 100 yards.
That isn't as bad as it sounds.
If your gun has iron sights, 100 yards is about the limit for a lot of us if we want to make a very accurate shot.

The only place the slugs have an advantage is at ranges further than 100 yards or if a "tough" critter like a big razorback is being hunted.

With big boned or "armored" critters like hogs the slugs extra weight can be handy.