What's the consensus on Kibler rifles Steel finish?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
ml1.jpg


Degreased, 2 coats of cold blue scrubbed in with a 3M pad, heated with a heat gun. Scrubbed back to gray after. Holds up well to 3 years of use.

Don
 
I have read that the 1803 Harper's Ferry rifle was required to have a browned barrel and all the other steel parts were to be blued.

Most new rifles would have been blued or left in the white to develop the gray patina and eventually a brown finish.
There was a time period when the US arsenals went through a brown, bright, blued phase. Some years certain parts were required to be bright, then browned and lacquered, then case hardened blue (not color cased). Then they would decide everything was to be bright, then every part was colored in some fashion. It can be hard to track at times.
 
Last edited:
Kibler's sells it. Black for the steel and brown for the brass.
I've used both on steel. Jax brown takes more work to build up a nice Grey patina. I finaly got some jax black and used it on the lock of my last woodsrunner. It was darker than I wanted. So I rubbed it back. And I'm getting used to it. The rifle is cherry stock and I browned the barrel.
Jax black is pretty much a cold bluing solution.
 
I think you need to first ask yourself what you intend to do with the rifle. Target, wallhanger, hunter?

I chose browning because it's highly durable and my Woodsrunner will likely see snow and rain throughout its lifetime.
 
Me, I prefer slow rust browning, regardless of era or HC. A good brown finish, brown like a Hershey bar, makes for what I think is a perfect barrel. It just looks "right.'" Plus I really do enjoy the process. I made a browning box that will support any length barrel. Thick plywood with wire or pine support points that do not contact the visible parts of a finished rifle. I love to see the day to day growing of rust. I use a low wattage light bulb that does not touch the wooden box, and several wet rags, a perfect environment for rust. Carding the barrel daily results in a very smooth unblemished finish. When done, I lined the box with plastic sheeting, fill it with cheap motor oil, and let the barrel soak for at least 2 days. Without the soaking, it will be difficult indeed to oil with gun oil. It soaks in and looks dry in splotches until sufficiently '"full." The motor oil really is a good short cut to a good and fast lasting oiled finish. I forgot to say plug the barrel and vent hole or risk the inside of the bore having rust. And the flats must be absolutely free of oil or even ginger prints. Fun stuff.
 
Me, I prefer slow rust browning, regardless of era or HC. A good brown finish, brown like a Hershey bar, makes for what I think is a perfect barrel. It just looks "right.'" Plus I really do enjoy the process. I made a browning box that will support any length barrel. Thick plywood with wire or pine support points that do not contact the visible parts of a finished rifle. I love to see the day to day growing of rust. I use a low wattage light bulb that does not touch the wooden box, and several wet rags, a perfect environment for rust. Carding the barrel daily results in a very smooth unblemished finish. When done, I lined the box with plastic sheeting, fill it with cheap motor oil, and let the barrel soak for at least 2 days. Without the soaking, it will be difficult indeed to oil with gun oil. It soaks in and looks dry in splotches until sufficiently '"full." The motor oil really is a good short cut to a good and fast lasting oiled finish. I forgot to say plug the barrel and vent hole or risk the inside of the bore having rust. And the flats must be absolutely free of oil or even ginger prints. Fun stuff.
Oh,forgot. It is okay to unplug the muzzle and touch hole before soaking. I mean do damage is done by the bore being full of oil. Take care at the muzzle when browning if you don't want it browned. I don't do that, but many like a bright muzzle.
 
I went with the bare / unfinished steel look on my Colonial. I took out the machining marks, gave it a light waxing to resist fingerprints a bit, and I'll let time take care of the aging.
20240805_131652.jpg
 
As mentioned in my previous post from a year ago in this thread, I prefer to finish my early(pre-War) flintlocks with a light grey wash on the steel, then left to patina with age. This is a Hubbard(quite similar in design to the Kibler Woodsrunner) of the same period that was finished in a similar fashion acquired over 15 years ago. I really like the patina. My Kibler, only a few years old is well in its way to tskung on a similar appearance.
IMG_0178.jpeg
 
I used perma blue and knocked it back to give me a grey iron look on this gun. I think bright is pretty universally accepted period correct option for guns of the 1750-1770’s. Then again if your Fowler doesn’t have metal engraving or your Woodsrunner have carving that’s not PC either, so do what makes you happy.
IMG_7932.jpeg
IMG_7934.jpeg
 
I have a trade gun and rust blued the barrel, trigger, and guard and did a Clorox bleach finish on the lock. It does look old.
 
Back
Top