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What's The Learning Curve On Flinters?

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Glenfilthie

45 Cal.
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Where I am there aren't alot of serious flintlock guys. I want to build a kit but once that's done I am on my own (except for you guys here).

I like my cap gun because it goes bang EVERYTIME I pull the trigger. Can a newbie get that kind of reliability out of a flinter?
 
funny... after I shot my flinter...I sold all my caplocks! :hmm:

it just gets better and better when your into a flinter.....I just don't hunt in a driving rain anyways!
 
Once I went to the rocklock I never looked back. Start with a good lock, a chambers whitelightning vent liner an learn the little things an it will be just as sure firing as any caplock. More fun too :thumbsup:
 
I started with a flintlock, and with no help from anyone else other than this forum. I don't really think there is much of a curve.
 
Trench said:
I started with a flintlock, and with no help from anyone else other than this forum. I don't really think there is much of a curve.

It depends on what you put into it. I bought my first flintlock from a member here and had it reworked by a great gunsmith who is also a member here. When I made the discovery that real black powder scares gun stores to death I found a local member here who supplied me with a pound to get me started. Based on advice and old threads from members here, and subject to my personal trial and error I assembled a rude kit of tools and items required to shoot and maintain a flintlock, some bought, some made. I started all this in September in anticipation of a deer hunt in early November. Just today I finally worked out my best patch/ball/lube/powder grain combo. I am hitting minute of deer vitals from 75 yards offhand with no flinch and have also figured out just how much prime to use.

All this in less than 2 months, shooting probably 2x a week. Based on patch consumption I have nearly 100 rounds in that time and have gone through a little over a pound of powder. So yes, I think the curve is steeper than other arms, but it can be done, even with no local instruction, if you put alot of effort into it and have patience when things go wrong. And this site helps a bit.....
 
Glenfilthie said:
Where I am there aren't alot of serious flintlock guys. I want to build a kit but once that's done I am on my own (except for you guys here).

I like my cap gun because it goes bang EVERYTIME I pull the trigger. Can a newbie get that kind of reliability out of a flinter?

You are actually asking two questions.

Can a flintlock be as reliable as a percussion gun? Yes, definately. And in all similar conditions.

Second question:

Can someone who has never built a flintlock before build one that will be as reliable as a percussion gun? THAT depends on the skills of the builder and how much time and research they put into the build. I'm pretty sure it would take me seven builds to get all the details figured out. That, and the investment in tools and time made a couple nice customs seem the cheaper choice for me.

Your results may vary. Some folks are very handy with wood and metal and can pick up the needed skills quickly. But with one kit all errors will be cummulative, so go slow and work careful.
 
I bought a custom flintlock from Bob Watts in 1977...He gave me a 10-15 minute talk and I got started...I've never owned a percussion and probably won't start now...It was second nature to me...

Keep the flint sharp, touch hole open and use real black powder...Don't over think it, if you throw sparks in a pan of dry powder with a main charge down the barrel and the touch hole is open she's going to fire...
 
what that last fellow said ...

can you make a flinter go bang each time? - yes, absolutely!

it's a bit more work than a caplock, but a boatload mnre fun.

just one guy's free opinion, and doubtless well worth the price

:wink:
 
Glenfilthie said:
Where I am there aren't alot of serious flintlock guys. I want to build a kit but once that's done I am on my own (except for you guys here).

I like my cap gun because it goes bang EVERYTIME I pull the trigger. Can a newbie get that kind of reliability out of a flinter?

Are you talking about the building aspect, or just learning to shoot one?
 
Well that is good news.

But I really want to build my first one and some of you fellers seem to have reservations about that.

I know the GPR's and the spaghetti plains rifles are great and all...but the older I get, the more I want to make and do things myself. I am looking at the Isaac Haines kits over at Track and they say they are fairly easy to put together... :hmm:
 
There is no question that a flintlock is a bit more challenging. But, with some reading and with some help from all of the folks on this forum, you can master the flintlock pretty quickly. The loading is exactly the same as with a caplock except that you cannot use any of the substitutes, you must use black powder. None of the substitutes will ignite reliably in a flintlock. With that being said, the only difference between a caplock and a flintlock is in the operation of the lock. There have been many studies done in how to place the powder in the pan. I think if you just level it in the pan, you will get reliable ignition. You can use either 4f or 3f in your pan. Both will work fine. When you build your rifle, make sure that your touch hole is centered on your pan and level with the top of your pan. Your flint needs to be sharp and of the proper width. Some recommend that the bevel of the flint bu up and others will tell you it should be down. There is no right way for all flintlocks, just see which way works best in yout lock. If you have been getting good ignition with your lock and suddenly it starts misfiring, check your flint to see if it needs knapping. Re-knapping your flint is something you will have to have someone teach you. Our late friend, Paul Vallendigham, has a tutorial on the forum on how to re-knap your flint. You need to read it. When loading, it is a good idea to place a piece of wire in your touch hole to keep your powder charge from plugging it. When you get ready to charge your pan, remove the wire and put it where you can find it again.

I know I haven't covered everything but I have given you a good start in becoming addicted to the flintlock like so many of the rest of us have. It is a bit more demanding but you will love it. Do not be afraid of a flintlock, they are a lot of fun. When questions arrise, just post them on this forum and you will get plenty of great answers.
 
I guess you've already discovered some kits are a little nearer completion than others. I was in the same boat as you, wanted to build my own flinter and had never even held one or even knew anyone in my area that had one. I went with TVM, and a book from Dixon (The Art of Building the Pennsylvania Longrifle). That with the help of this forum is the best advice I can give. I'm no gun builder by any means and my rifle ain't gonna win no blue ribbon but I think it turned out ok. good luck :thumbsup:
 
I say jump in with both feet. I didn't think there was much interest in my area till I looked around and Found it was everywhere. :wink:
 
I don't know your skill level, but just so you know. The Track of the Wolf kits don't just go together. You will need to fit breechplug, drill and tap the holes,properly position the touch hole, cut doveails, inlet parts, remove a lot of wood to get the proper shape, file and finish metal parts, etc. It is a very worthwhile endeavor, just be aware of the work and skill involved.
 
I've only been shooting flintlocks for about 1 1/2 years. It all started when I seen an almost new TC flintlock is a local gun shop.I bought the gun and started learning, and shooting.

I started reading on this forum and heard about Dixon's builders fair in Penn. and heard of Tip Curtis and his kits. I went to Dixon's and meet Tip Curtis, and realized that his rifles are almost finished. The wood was unfinished, and so was the metal work. I could have shot the rifle as is. The swamped barrel was fitted perfect, the lock fit perfect, the butt plate and toe plate and trigger guard all professionaly fit. I learned to take the lock completely apart to finish it. I removed the barrel and learned to finish it. I put the final finsh on the stock and finished polishing the brass.

Everyone that has seen the rifle has drooled over it. The Colerain Barrel is accurate, and the large Siler lock is a work of art and just as realiable.

It's a easier way to get started, however I'm sure I paid a little more than on-line kits.
 
Good point ya might want to start with an easier kit such as a TVM kit most of the works already done for ya much easier build for a newer gun builder..
 
Also true almost all the inletting is done other then the trigger guard, and end cap. Of course ya have to drill the vent liner hole though too. And for a rookie gun builder a chambers kit is alotta cash to mess up on better to learn on a TVM then work his way up.
 

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