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Wheellock wheels without 'cross grooves' cut across the wheel

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Source = Armin König

"It is worth noting that the friction wheel has 3 longitudinal grooves, but no trace of the usual transverse grooves. This functional specificity could previously only be observed in Suhl pistols from the last production phase before 1634. The advantage of this design is that the relatively soft pyrite (pyrite) is subjected to significantly less stress and breaks less easily than if it is exposed to the considerable shear forces and impact points caused by transverse grooves. As the experimental test proves, the spark generation of the wheel is enormous despite the lack of cross grooves. However, the prerequisite for the perfect functioning of such a design is an extremely strong contact pressure of the cock spring and a rapid acceleration of the friction wheel caused by a very strong wheel spring. Both features that are not guaranteed with less high-quality and sophisticated locks."

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Note - Brian Anderson says it was common on the larger wheellocks not to have many cross-grooves just due to the sheer power of the dog spring
 
Flint: That's very interesting! Suppose without cross grooves, the friction wheel had more friction all along the 3 longitudinal grooves; i.e. roughened up slightly crosswise around its circumfrance? Of course roughened up too much would create more pyrite stress than 3 cross grooves........or maybe just roughened up only at the same 3 axis locations as the non-cross grooves?

Obviously, or maybe not so, back in the day these experiments were throughly reviewed before finalizing the cross groove method?
 
Based off of Armin’s research, it seems like it’s the opposite. The later wheellocks did away with the cross groves.
I agree with that, but make note of the prerequisites ... it must be well function wheelie with both a strong main spring and dog spring.

The main spring in that original Dutch wheellock, dated to 1660s or so, is 3/4" wide and of ~1/8" stock; the spring pressure is intense! I know ... I removed it ... yikes! And still have all my fingers operable, lol! Good think I have a 'buckle' for sprinf removal.
 
I agree with that, but make note of the prerequisites ... it must be well function wheelie with both a strong main spring and dog spring.

The main spring in that original Dutch wheellock, dated to 1660s or so, is 3/4" wide and of ~1/8" stock; the spring pressure is intense! I know ... I removed it ... yikes! And still have all my fingers operable, lol! Good think I have a 'buckle' for sprinf removal.
With that prerequisite, I wonder the maximum reliability of a “historically accurate” replica wheellock.

Modern spring forging, with consistent steel + machined central shaft/spindle + machined wheel with no cross groves = far more reliability than historical guns or most other replicas.

Many of the surviving originals still seem super smooth, so maybe there is still some missing secret sauce for how they were able to do that so well with hand tools? I think you’ve mentioned your Italian lock is extremely smooth and my double lock is very patinad, but has no graininess when rotating
 
With that prerequisite, I wonder the maximum reliability of a “historically accurate” replica wheellock.
Various books on wheellocks allege a 75% successful firing rate, hence why you see some with 2 wheels and/or 2 dogs or with an added matchlock serpentine. Two of the biggest uses of wheellocks were for calvary/horseback use and for guards where the lit cord of a matchlock would give the sentry's position away.

My Anderson lock went 28 for 29 shots (96.5% success) at a local woodswalk, only failing as the BP fouling had dried under the pan cover (there was a 30-minute wait before the last 'tie breaker' shot was fired) and the pan didn't open well. But the wheel sparked ... just another 'flash in the pan', no?
 

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