When should to prime?

[rlehman]

Got out with my flintlock a couple of times this fall. This was my first experience hunting with a flintlock. After first day, I discovered that the primer powder wouldn't ignite due to moisture. The second time out, I replaced the prime powder every 30 to 40 min. and still had problems with moisture . I have since wondered that maybe I should just wait to prime immediatly before shooting. I never did sit with a bow at full draw all day and always seemed to have time to knock an arrow. I have never been a snap shot shooter with high power and it seems like I remember that I usually would have had time to prime as long as I could do it without making a lot of rukus. Does anyone wait to prime at the last minute? Any suggestions?

 

[No Deer]

I usually just change the prime every half hour or less as necessary, but have not really had any real problems with the prime getting damp. You don't say what grade you are using for prime, but I suspect that if you are getting damp prime that fast you are using 4f. If so, try switching to 3f, it does not draw the moisture as fast.
Was it raining or just very humid that day? If it was raining you may need to protect the lock area using a cow's knee or keep it under your coat. If just high humidity, changing to 3f for prime may be your best solution.

 

[Pasquinel]

If your hunting from an elevated stand and you move very slowly, it shouldn't be a problem to prime at the first sight of your target. I wouldn't wait until he gets within
say 40 yards because than you're really pushing it. I never carry my rifle with the pan primed! I'd rather miss one deer than possibly miss the rest of my life! :imo:

 

[roundball]

If your hunting from an elevated stand and you move very slowly, it shouldn't be a problem to prime at the first sight of your target. I wouldn't wait until he gets within
say 40 yards because than you're really pushing it. I never carry my rifle with the pan primed! I'd rather miss one deer than possibly miss the rest of my life! :imo:

Use a leather 'Hammer Stall' - best thing since sliced bread as a safety device for a loaded, cocked flintlock...I used one all season this year...excellent safety and peace of mind

 

[Stumpkiller]

I wouldn't wait until he gets within
say 40 yards because than you're really pushing it. I never carry my rifle with the pan primed! I'd rather miss one deer than possibly miss the rest of my life!

HUH? I'd rather walk around with a loaded flintlock that be up in a tree with one in any condition. Talk about unsafe. :shocking: Bunny hunting with an unprimed flintlock wouldn't put much Hossenpfeffer on the table.


To combat moisture, use larger granulations (FFg or FFFg) and make a Cow's Knee out of waxed leather.

With a 58" or 60" overall length on a "proper" flintlock, you've got about as much chance of accidentally shooting yourself as biting your own elbow; unless you're holding the muzzle end. Watch out for them "Killer Carbines" with barrel lengths under 42", though. :winking:

 

[flaming canvas]

Have you tried using a little Bore Butter or similar home made stuff around the edge of the pan for a weather seal? Mark Baker mentions this in his book, or at least I think that's where I saw it.

 

[Pasquinel]

roundball where does one purchase a hammer stall? ::

 

[Rat]

I'm with Stumpy on this one. I'd feel like a real pilgrim/greenhorn/tenderfoot with no prime in my rifle. Being safe, in general, is a good thing...but waiting to see the deer before you prime your pan, or never carrying a primed rifle...??

:cry:

Is it possible that oil is creeping up from the lock, and/or where the pan meets the barrel? If those areas are oily, it will look like the prime is drawing moisture "out of the air" but really it's oil. Don't ask me how I know that.



That's got to be some high humidity where you are or something...I've hunted in drizzling rain with Bess, and could detect no moisture in my prime. ??? I kept the lock under my jacket...but still that had to be pretty humid.

Rat

 

[Pasquinel]

Don't want to sound like a safety freak but majority of my
hunting I do solo. There is always a chance of stepping into a hidden hole beneath the leaves (old rotted out stump site) falling with your rifle landing who knows where. The chances of this happening might be 1 in million but this is
why its' called a hunting accident. These things are never
planned out in advance. :imo: :thumbsup:

 

Don't want to sound like a safety freak but majority of my
hunting I do solo. There is always a chance of stepping into a hidden hole beneath the leaves (old rotted out stump site) falling with your rifle landing who knows where. The chances of this happening might be 1 in million but this is
why its' called a hunting accident. These things are never
planned out in advance. :imo: :thumbsup:

I think step'n in thet hole and "break'n" yore leg or neck, is more likely then yore rifle accidently go'n off!!

You do realize thet even "un-primed" flint rifles can still "fire",.... don't you??

As mentioned above, a "hammer stall" will prevent thet kind of accident but, offers no protection to yore leg or neck!! ::

YMHS
rollingb

 

Get some beeswax and just'warm' it so it's PLIABLE, make it into a 'thread' about 1/16 inch or so diam. put it into a coil shape... when your gun is primed, put on your hammer stall, then warm a section of the coiled beeswax between your thumb and fore finger, place it on the upper edge of your pan and CAREFULLY press your frizzen down on it, place another piece between the edge of the frizzen and barrel... if your lock and barrel 'seam' are properly fitted and 'weather-proofed' you SHOULD be about as moisture-proof as is possible.... BUT remember.. some times a bit of priming powder CAN stick to the bees wax so be sure to clean it off real good if you 'unload' instead of shoot... :m2c:

 

[roundball]

roundball where does one purchase a hammer stall? ::

Well, Buckhorn Trading Co makes them...sells them on EBay too...but mainly the large generic size for musket reenactors.
I sent him a frizzen for a TC Hawken and he measured the dimensions and made a few for me custom fit to the TC Hawken frizzen, and kept the dimensions for other TC users if they wanted any.
Excellent quality thick leather, the shape of a frizzen, good snug fit, with a hole punched at the top for a rawhide tie to the trigger guard...I bought several and they only cost $1.xx each (10 cost me $20 delivered)
I'll post his contact info tonight when I get home...

 

[Ron LaClair]

roundball where does one purchase a hammer stall?

They're pretty easy to make, just a little leather, a punch and a needle. In a pinch you can make one by cutting off the finger of an old glove.

As for carrying an unprimed gun, you're not huntin you're just goin for a walk in the woods. A hunter that's ready and gets on target quickly is more likely to be a successful hunter. :imo:

 

[Pasquinel]

Regardless of how long and hard I practiced with my flintlock, I'd never hit a running deer. I lived in Penna & was stationed in the UP of Michigan (before shotgun only law) and have seen first hand too many hunters shot and killed or seriously wounded by someone shooting at a running
deer.(Medic you know). You guys are way out of my league if
you can hit a running deer with a flintlock! I don't walk through the woods, I proceed at a snales' pace. Just last year, I was able to sneak upon a nice 4 pointer without his
ever knowing I was there. Shooting a percussion rifle, busted a cap, that's all. If you hunt with great stealth,
move live a snail, keep your eyes and ears alert, plenty of
time to prime. Besides it's the thrill of the hunt!!! The meat is a bonus. I'm aware a flint can fire without a charge in the pan. :results:

 

I don't walk through the woods, I proceed at a snales' pace. Just last year, I was able to sneak upon a nice 4 pointer without his
ever knowing I was there.

:thumbsup: :thumbsup:,.... The best "sneak" I ever put on a deer, was when I got close enuff to touch a "bedded" mulie doe with the muzzle of my rifle!! :applause: ::

She litterly "exploded" !! :crackup: :crackup: :crackup: :crackup: (lot's more fun, then shoot'n her!!)

YMHS
rollingb

 

[Rat]

Well that's what I've been trying to tell people for years...move slow as molasses in January...and then...SLOW DOWN!!

But when I'm out hunting, I see so many "fast movers", guys just walking along in high gear, heads swiveling on rubber necks but not seeing anything. I mean, not only do these guys walk right by me, sometimes within ten feet or so, but year before last a guy stood on a little hill behind my ground blind, within 30 feet of me, which has no cover in the back, for about 15 minutes and never saw me. Now what if I had been an elk bedded down at the bottom of the hill??

Well although it's not for me, if you can hunt with a unprimed rifle...that's an accomplishment for sure. What about the extra movement when priming? I agree that time would not be a big factor, but seems like opening the frizzen, priming, closing the frizzen, etc, would be a lot of possibly game-spooking movement...??? I mean you have to lift a horn or priming tool up to the level of the pan. Or do you leave the frizzen open...? If so, if it's wet and/or raining...?

Generally speaking I would not shoot at a running deer with a single-shot...but it's always a possibility if the deer is not running all-out, and is within close range. At VERY close range I'd take a running shot, as long as my swing and lead felt right.

Ok no one is calling anyone a "safety freak"...it's just a very unusual method to go "unprimed", and brings up some interesting questions, and has probably taken some of us by suprise. By the way do you leave a cap-lock uncapped until ready to shoot?

Rat

 

[Ron LaClair]

Carry your gun unprimed if it suites you but I guarantee the day will come when you'll reget it. :curse: :boohoo: :cry:

If you ever get a chance at a trophy of a lifetime and you lose it because your pan's not primed?? :shake: :shake:

I can recall many times in my hunting career when I barely had time to get the gun to my shoulder and line up my sights. If I had to prime my pan first.... :shake: forgetaboutit!

One such time was my moose hunt in Ontario that I wrote about on this forum, (page 3) "Your most exciting flinter hunt". If my pan had not been primed that story would have had a sad ending

 

[rlehman]

Well the seasons over for me now but I have a year to get ready for next fall. Thanks to all for the responce. I have been using 4F to prime and will check out using 3F. I have also made a "hammer stall" from an old glove. I used the finger of course because whole glove didnt look to neat hanging on the gun.::
Thsnks to Rat, I think he may be right in that I was absorbing some oil into the prime. I'm going to experiment with the suggestions to seal with bore butter or beeswax. Also going to try to make that cows knee. Got lots to learn but the learning is the fun part.
Thanks y'all

 

"Shotgun Only" is only in the lower half of the Lower Peninsula of Meechigan, where Stumblin resides. They mighta made the law just fer him :crackup: :crackup: :crackup: Anyhuu I agree that it's probably oil and not Humidity. The only times I've have an ignition failure is when it is raining and the frizzen gets wet, or I managed to bump the frizzen open and dump my prime :m2c:

 

[No Deer]

"Shotgun Only" is only in the lower half of the Lower Peninsula of Meechigan, where Stumblin resides. They mighta made the law just fer him "


If you could see his big Hawken rifle, you would know just how close to bein right you are!