Where does the best flint come from?

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Joe Yanta

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I have read that the English black flints are the best. And then the French amber flints are the best. I have heard that we have some pretty good flint right here in the good ol' USA.

So does anyone know for sure where the best flint comes from?

Joe
 
Joe Yanta said:
So does anyone know for sure where the best flint comes from?

Interesting challenge...answers will be interesting as well...I've tried various agates, french amber, and black english flints in my flintlocks.

The black english flints have been far & away better than anything else for me in my flintlocks.

The ones I buy are advertised as "Tom Fuller hand knapped Black English Flints, and I understand that they come from England.

Therefore, my only answer to your question would have to be: "from England".
 
Hard to say... I like both the English and French. I got a bad batch of flints from Fuller last year, they would only last about 30-50 rounds. Then I switched to French flints and they've been lasting upwards of 80-100 shots. I'm beginning to thinking that it has more to do with inclusions and variations in the flint. Who knows.....

SP

I didn't think North America had what is commonly referred to as flint.... am I wrong?
 
I've always felt that 20 shots with a flint was a very long lived flint. I'd really like to see some of these 70-100 shot flints.
 
lonesomebob said:
:v Nothing wrong with flint from flint ridge ohio.
Bob, I've heard of and tried "Arkansas Agate" sawed flints...is that Ohio flint you mentioned like that or is it like a black English flint?

Is it marketed & sold commercially?
What's it's flint life?
What is it's price?
 
Swamp,
What kind of Lock are you using? Is it a big Queen Anne lock? I have to be honest, I only get around 50 shots out of my round-faced Virginia lock, but it has a mainspring like a bear trap. On my Silers, Hollenbaugh, and Roller locks, using 5/8 inch flints, English or French usually give me 80-100.

SP
 
I hear ya man!
I use English and if i get 30 shots before the first misfire I feel lucky. The standard for me is shoot 20-25, at the first misfire Knapp it then good for another 20 at best.
Don't get me wrong, I'm quite happy with the quality I'm getting they are very consistant and that means more to me than 30 more shots.
I often see guys at shooting matches milking a flint and having to try 5 times before it goes off. I often say to myself "come on dude it is a one dollar flint knapp it, or change it" This is going on while 4 guys are waiting to shoot behind the cheap *******.
Craig
 
I think the shape of the flint has as much to do with the function as the type or origin of the flint. English flint has very fine and uniform "grain" and so can be knapped very efficiently. But if you get an English black flint with a hump so big it can't be clamped tight in the jaws, it will be worthless. The angles of the edges matter too- I'd rather have a sharp flint that sparks like crazy for 15-25 shots than a hammer-faced rock that won't ever dull because it was not sharp to begin with.

I am knapping my own from local flint and they all work fine. Plus it helps to have another 100 of them in a sack, so if one stops throwing a shower of sparks and does not seem to want to be tuned up, I can toss it on the ground. Coarse flint, fine flint, glassy flint, rough flint- seems like when flint hits steel, it sparks. I don't get to shoot that often, and could re-steel my frizzen, so am not worried about wearing it out with coarser flint.
 
But if you get an English black flint with a hump so big it can't be clamped tight in the jaws, it will be worthless.

Not so. I have a little wood jig and a Mizzy Wheel on my Dremel so I can mill the humps out of flints; or level out the twisty ones. I get 100 useable out of a bag of 100.

I've been getting 80 to 90 shots out of my Black English, with two in-jaw knapping sessions during that string. I then toss them into a jar for future use after a overhaul in case the supply dries up. (What happens if Tom Fuller eats a bad anchovie tomorrow and passes away?)

Crgabel ~ you need to institute a "misfire counts as a miss" rule at your shoots. Makes folks a LOT more cautious and meticulous. Where I have shot after the second consecutive failure on a load you are done on the target and must withdraw to a side area until the gun is discharged (with the further embarassment of having a referee or range officer standing with you), and take the time penalty (as in the case of a biathlon). Not for sissies. Just like in the real world, you're out of the fight or hunt if you can't get your firelock to go off. I have heard of guys that picked up partial points for throwing their knife or hawk at the target after a misfire. But then you're REALLY in trouble is you miss.
 
One other thought I'll pass along here. I never hunt on a fresh flint. Even if I have to dry-fire in the backyard I make sure the flint isn't the "one-in-a-hundred" that shatters when first struck. I like five shots on a new flint before I rely on it for that one chance on a deer (especially on a load that may be 8 hours old in the cold & damp). I've had new flints that must have had internal fractures that failed catistrophically, though not on a deer, thank God.
 
I also do the "mizzy wheel" treatment on hump backs...works fine.

Another view about test firing flints that I struggle with is like proof testing a barrel...I'm always worried that the actual act of drying firing (or proofing) might create a circumstance where the very next shot the flint will fail, shatter, etc.

So for my deer hunting, I put in a new flint, then intentionally knapp the edge lightly so there's no question in my mind it'll give max sparks.

Heck, if you think worrying about flints is bad, I added an additional challenge to myself this year...I dropped the hammer on a 10 pointer that was only 25-35yds away and I had forgotten to slip off the Hammer Stall !!
:redface: :shake:

The good news is it was totally silent, he never looked my way, I slipped it off and recocked, he stopped and looked towards the cocking sound, and I shot him!
:grin:
 
roundball said:
lonesomebob said:
:v Nothing wrong with flint from flint ridge ohio.
Bob, I've heard of and tried "Arkansas Agate" sawed flints...is that Ohio flint you mentioned like that or is it like a black English flint?

Is it marketed & sold commercially?
What's it's flint life?
What is it's price?

Roundball, here is a link about Ohio flint, if you scroll down towards the middle it tells about flint from Flint Ridge and has a picture of the type of flint quarried there...

http://www.dnr.state.oh.us/publications/geo/flint.html

I'm not sure if it's sold locally or not...
 
Flintridge flint does make a good rifle flint although not as good as an English flint. I live in central Ohio and from here to Portsmouth in the South on the river the fields are cover with chips and arrowheads. I read many years ago in Dodderidge's Notes that they often used broken arrowheads for gun flints. I went to a large field next to the Scioto River, South of Columbus and picked up enough chips and broken arrowheads to last a couple of years (used all the good arrowheads for trading). I still prefer English flint for gun flints but that Flint Ridge stuff sure is pretty with all those pink, brown, and white colors and it does work for gun flints.

Regards, Dave
 
Another view about test firing flints that I struggle with is like proof testing a barrel...I'm always worried that the actual act of drying firing (or proofing) might create a circumstance where the very next shot the flint will fail, shatter, etc.

So for my deer hunting, I put in a new flint, then intentionally knapp the edge lightly so there's no question in my mind it'll give max sparks.

Oh great! Another thing to sit up worrying all night about before deer season.

Did I set the alarm to go off early enough . . .

Is there any peanut butter in the cupboard . . .

Should I try the flint or not . . .

Did I pee before I went to bed . . .

Is that rain I hear on the window . . .

Did I take last year's jerkey out of my coat pocket . . .
 
Thanks for the tip on the misfire rule,I'll pass it on.
As for hunting I too will not go out with out less than 5 shots on a flint.
craig
 
As to flint, I have been collecting flint for 35 years, Arrowheads, tools, and all kinds of flint I have found all over Texas. I don't use a Flinter (YET), but I needed a good flint and steel fire starter set. I emptied all my boxes of broken arrows and started checking for sparks. The best I have found is black flint. 10 to 1 over the other colors in setting sparks. I don't know where in Texas these pieces came from or traded by indians. But I am keeping these good ones to make flints for my new flintlock.
 
Slowpoke said:
I didn't think North America had what is commonly referred to as flint.... am I wrong?

Yup, lots of "flint" in North America. You may commonly see it called "chert". The English black and French amber cherts are what is commonly called flint. Various cherts have different hardness ratings, but virtually all of them will throw a spark.
 
Novaculite (aka: Chert, Arkansas Stone, honestone, flint). It's different from either the English or French flint, but has a similar mineral composition (it's all silica quartz - but then so is an opal)

Novaculite

General Information
Novaculite is a sedimentary rock composed mostly of microcrystalline quartz and is a recrystallized variety of chert. It is dense, hard, white to grayish-black in color, translucent on thin edges, and has a dull to waxy luster. It typically breaks with a smooth conchoidal (shell-like) fracture. The word novaculite is derived from the Latin word novacula, meaning razor stone.
Novaculite is widely distributed in the Ouachita Mountains of Arkansas. Because it is highly resistant to erosion, it forms prominent ridges. The Arkansas Novaculite formation of Devonian and Mississippian age and consists of novaculite interbedded with some shale. It ranges in thickness from about 250 to 900 feet.
Arkansas novaculite is recognized worldwide for its use as whetstones and oilstones, which are used for sharpening knives, surgical instruments, and wood-carving tools. Early Native Americans in Arkansas gathered novaculite boulders and, in the vicinity of Hot Springs in Garland County, quarried the stone to make weapons and tools. In the early 1800's, a quarry of honestone near Magnet Cove in Hot Spring County was mined by early settlers. Records show that novaculite mining in Arkansas was intermittent from 1885 to 1905, but continuous ever since.

Flint Verses Chert: What's the difference?

Contributed by member Michael Rogers


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Introduction

One of the most common questions asked by artifact collectors is: "What is the difference between flint and chert"? This article attempts to answer that question from a geological and chemical perspective.

Minerals The Silica Group

Minerals are the natural crystalline materials that form the Earth and make up most of its rocks. The most important group of minerals involved in the formation of flints/cherts is the Silica Group. This large group includes all minerals with the primary chemical formula 5i02 (silicon dioxide) and is most abundantly represented in nature by pure quartz and its many cryptocrystalline forms.

Cryptocrystalline Quartz

Cryptocrystalline quartz is simply quartz whose crystals are so small that they can only be seen with the aid of a high-power microscope. It is formed geologically from silica that has dissolved from silicate materials. Over geological time, this amorphous silica gel dehydrates to form microscopic crystals and eventually becomes what we know physically as rock. Cryptocrystalline quartz occurs in many varieties. These varieties have been named based on their color, opacity, banding and other observable physical features. Technically speaking, the two varieties that account for the vast majority of "flint" artifact materials are chalcedony and chert.

Other varieties encountered in the artifact world are agate, jasper and petrified wood. Interestingly, petrified wood is usually wood that has been replaced by agate. This same process also occurs with coral, hence the term "Agatized coral".

Chalcedony Chert and Flint

Chalcedony is a variety of cryptocrystalline quartz with extremely small crystals and a specific gravity (weight under water, a measure of a rock/mineral's purity) nearly identical to that of pure quartz. Due to its very high quartz content and super fine particle matrix, chalcedony has a very waxy luster.

Chert is composed of larger crystal particles and has a specific gravity similar that of pure quartz. Due to impurities and larger particle sizes, chert is somewhat less "quartz-like" than chalcedony. Chert is duller and more opaque than chalcedony and its luster ranges from non-existant to very waxy, depending on the individual rock formation.

So what is flint? By mineralogical definition, flint is simply black chert. It appears that the term "flint" was originally applied to the high quality black cherts found in England. Over the years names have evolved for local chert formations/deposits that may include the word "flint" and technically speaking these would be incorrect more often than not. The reality of the flint verses chert debate is that in most cases it is something like "splitting hairs", there really is very little difference, chemically speaking. Artifact collectors tend to call materials that have a more waxy luster "flints" and those which have less luster to no luster "cherts". The difference between them lyes in their purity relative to pure quartz and their matrix particle size. The smaller the particle size and the purer the material, the more likely we collectors would be to call the material flint. To a purist, we would be wrong. A generalist would say "close enough".

Note: Some examples of Flint Ridge Flint are known to be 98.93 % pure silicon dioxide.

References

Sorrell Charles A., Minerals of the World: A Field Guide and Introduction to the Geology and Chemistry of Minerals., Golden Press, New York, 1973 pp 206-209.
 
Maybe the knapping skill and making the flint is more important than where the flint comes from? I dunno.

img_0081.jpg


I got this nodule of black English flint off of Ebay. I was somewhat surprised that it is a nodule. I was thinking that flint was a vein or geological outcrop or something.

I guess I can teach myself how to knap flint now.

Joe
 
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