Lock design/geometry?

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All boxed up and mailing to Brad this week. He assures me it will function as a new lock when he’s done. Better than the original factory. He takes it right back to the beginning and corrects it.
I’d rather not have to fit a different lock if I don’t have to. Worst case scenario, he builds me a lock.
 
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All boxed up and mailing to Brad this week. He assures me it will function as a new lock when he’s done. Better than the original factory. He takes it right back to the beginning and corrects it.
I’d rather not have to fit a different lock if I don’t have to. Worst case scenario, he builds me a lock.
No, it won't function like a new Pedersoli lock. It will certainly be different than it was. Your lock tuned by Brad will function as a lock should that is set to the proper geometry, the contact points polished for optimal performance and the springs balanced.
 
Excellent choice. Some berate the L&R locks but many consider their geometry as better than Pedersoli. Ask Brad about the L&R also. If you have Brad rework your lock it will certainly improve. If you keep your Pedersoli lock think about having a spare main spring on hand. You won’t regret it. Plus side of the L&R is easily and quickly replaceable parts. Sometimes long waits with some Pedersoli parts.
Speaking from my experience with this gun, you have an excellent accurate rifle there but the factory lock is not a top quality lock. Best of luck and hope you can get it sorted out.
Snoot
I’m not a big fan of the L&R locks in general. I did however use an L&R RPL on my son’s Dixie Mountain Rifle and it was a huge improvement. The RPL was a fairly easy replacement.
Kevin
 
I have a Pedersoli Frontier flintlock in .50 cal. Shoot it lots. When it works I am hitting steel 50-100 yds with no issues. Very accurate, I have it dialed in.

Ignition consistency is probably 8 out of 10 shots. The other 2 would be no spark or damaged flint. I have been using the amber flints, and seemed to be cracking or breaking them sometimes. Switched to black english flints last week and pretty good ignition but today the one in the jaws broke in half.

I am thinking of changing to an L&R lock that fits this rifle from TOTW. The case colored lock is beautiful, but I'd exchange that for consistency with another lock. Curious on thoughts on the lock pic below I took today. The issue I have is the offset I need to use to set the flint in the jaws to get the flint edge to fill the full face of the frizzen. I'm no gun builder, but seems like that is stressing my flints because of the offset impact? Should the jaws and frizzen not line up straight???

Appreciate any feedback, other than "buy a Kibler". Thanks.
Getting an Italian flintlock that works properly is kinda’ of a c**p shoot.
 
I had nothing but problems with the pedosorry I bought in the 90s. The lock had problems until I gave the rifle away.
Some of the brass broke from firing, The patch box hinge gave way.
its name was "Ye Ole fence post". That was its destiny.
After 10 years of frustration, I built a flintlock with the fastest lock on earth, Been happy ever since 2005.
Stop trying to micky mouse a third world production gun and build a Kibler. Then let the fun begin.
 


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