I always ask these silly questions,where to get this, where to get that.... but this one is more or less valid than my other ramblings.... I want either true tannenberg, a tabor, or hackenbuchse like one in the hussite wars. Blueprints would be useful too. Ive turned a gonne before. So let me know folks. I know several of you are gonners :thumbsup: this is a thanks ahead of time
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where to get a truly historic gonne?
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Jumpshot
54 Cal.
I have that one from TRS. It looks quite a bit different than the picture on their website, but I like it.
Jumpshot
54 Cal.
This is the picture on their website.
This is what they sent me.
I like it, it's just different than I was expecting. I haven't used the serpentine. I just removed that tiller (in the last picture) and I'm currently making a larger one for it, and I'm planning to paint the serpentine black and put it on the new one.
This is what they sent me.
I like it, it's just different than I was expecting. I haven't used the serpentine. I just removed that tiller (in the last picture) and I'm currently making a larger one for it, and I'm planning to paint the serpentine black and put it on the new one.
Jumpshot
54 Cal.
Mine is the steel .75 gonne. I haven't seen their brass .62 gonne in person, but I've seen a picture of it online from someone else who bought one. It's the same shape as mine, but octagonal instead of round. So apparently the picture on their website doesn't accurately represent either of the ones they sell.
By the way, the measurements on mine just for future reference: 13 1/16" overall length, the bore is 10 3/4" long, no reduced powder chamber (full bore size all the way to the breech), outer diameter at the base of the socket is 1 3/16", socket opening is 7/8" with a slight taper towards the breech, socket is 1 1/8" deep.
Another view:
By the way, the measurements on mine just for future reference: 13 1/16" overall length, the bore is 10 3/4" long, no reduced powder chamber (full bore size all the way to the breech), outer diameter at the base of the socket is 1 3/16", socket opening is 7/8" with a slight taper towards the breech, socket is 1 1/8" deep.
Another view:
What is the maximum effective range of one of those gonnes?
The look like they would be fun to shoot.
The look like they would be fun to shoot.
Jumpshot
54 Cal.
cynthialee said:
No idea. I've never tried to find out. I just blast away at tree stumps and stuff.
2F for a .75. Smaller charge if you want to conserve powder, more if you want to make more noise/smoke. No patch, although you can use one if you want to. 4F priming powder. I usually use punks for ignition, I buy them every summer at local fireworks stands. It works, but it's a pain when the ember breaks off and you have to re-light it. I've never tried a fuse.
The bore measures .748". I was talking with someone else who has one, I think it was Teleoceras. His measures .775". So there appears to be some variation.
Here's a full view. I took these pictures with my .30-30 to give it scale. The new tiller I'm making will be a larger diameter and nearly a foot longer.
freekforge
45 Cal.
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i have hit a milk jug from 25 yards with mine several times in a row, blows them up pretty good too
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My arquebus bought from kimsey0 on gunbroker.
1 Hand gonne
1) (1375 A.D. thereabouts). Round 'broomstick' stock called a tiller. Fired with a linstick (thin stick with slot cut in the end to hold the matchcord), a right hand shooter would hold the linstick with right hand, the tiller between left arm and side (i.e. in the left armpit) and left hand holding gun by the tiller.
2 Serpentine
Next same gun but with a serpentine (maybe 1400) (so you can put two hands on the tiller to hold gonne and now a righthander could put gun in right armpit.
3 Arqebus (hook gun)
Next same but with a squarish club replacing the tiller (maybe 1425?) (so you can sight down the barrel and place gun against the shoulder).
kimsey0 made this great gun. The ring on the barrel end is because an early hooked breach gun snugs the breach plug groove into a metal hook attached into the rear top of the stock. To do this you press the muzzle ring down against the floor and push the whole gun down firmly to shove the barrel completely onto the stock to lock it in place.
