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Which Bullet Lube

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Ironwood

40 Cal.
Joined
Jan 24, 2003
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I know lots of you may think I'm nuts for bringing this up while you are snowed in. It won't be too long down here before it starts getting pretty warm. The bullet lube I'm using at the present seems as if it will be getting very soft when the temp gets up in the 80's and 90's.

Anyone have a suggestion for a bullet lube that will stay on the bullet during times of high temps? Could I add a little beeswax to what I'm presently using to make it more stable in warm weather.
 
I use a 50/50 blend of Lee Alox bullet lube and Bee's Wax on my .58 caliber minie balls, I have had no problem with this mixture during the hot summer months here in Ohio...
(It gets into the high 90's in august and september here)

I melt the mixture in a small pot and blend together, once blended, I allow it to cool and harden up again...

I have an old ice cube tray I use to pour lube ingets for cooling, it works well for me...
 
I use a mix of copha (hydrogenated coconut oil sold in supermarket) and beeswax. It's quite hot here in the topics so Iuse a high proportion of beeswax. Tial and error. I do mainly patched RB but also minie all in cal 50. Kentucky long rifle and a home brew derringer. I make my perc caps, my BP, bullets and just about everything. I'm new on this forum. Cheers
 
quote:Originally posted by Nitrax:
I make my perc caps, my BP, bullets and just about everything.Nitrax:
Could you post how you make homemade percussion cap?
You sparked my intrust. (Uggh, bad pun)
 
Hi Musketman and Forum:
To make pecussion caps you need first to buy from Dixie a punch called "tap o cap" ref: MI0730 price (1996) 26 Us$. You simply cut out with strong sissors some beer or Coke aluminium tins into strips and then punch out holes into them with the magic tool. In this case you throw away the holes and keep the little cups produced by the "tap o cap".
Priming mixture: Nick from your Old Man's casket an old WW2 smoke flare, they contain pure red phosphorus. Grind to a very fine powder and add some Magnesium filings in it. Magnesium available in camping shop as fire starters. If no Mg available use Aluminium but the filings would have to be finer or better: aluminium powder. (Wash some "silver " paint with acetone until you are left with the pure dry powder. A dice full should last you a life time) Grind SEPARATELY... phosphorus/magnesium and Potassium Chlorate. When happy, mix the 2 (75% KclO3, 23% P, 2% Mg) by sliding back and forth the 2 component from 2 sheets of paper and mixing progressively. After 40 times it should be ready. Wear safety goggles or better, dark soldering goggles. Don't be tempted to stirr with a spoon handle IT WILL FLARE! When it does, it really flashes quick, emitting a strange sound like a dog bark... You jump back a couple of meters so make sure nobody is behind you! Not dangerous if you wear goggles and work with very small amounts. Test minute quantities of it with a little hammer. If your ears whistle for an hour afterward the mix is good. Wearing safety glasses, fill up the little cups to half. Press it down with a modified nail. (cut the nail's end flat and polish it shiny so it won't stick). From time to time one will go off, no drama.
Mix one tea spoon of SHELLAC with 2 ts of methylated spirit. Drop one drop of this mix into cups to seal them. Let dry (1h) and press it with the nail. For a perfect and long lasting seal another drop can be added. The finished sealed mixture will be less "ticklish" therefore safe to handle but sill very explosive under the frank knock of a percussion hammer.
In Australia it is difficult and expensive to obtain Potassium Chlorate. So, I make my own. If you want to know how I will post. The magnesium or aluminium is important as it raise the temperature of combustion to 2000
 
PATCH LUBES -- I'm shooting for groups and want to make a patch lube for my .54 GPR. I've been nuking my lube of beesxaw and grape seed oil, 1 to 3 and then dunking the patches, letting them cool and warming them again in order to take off excessive lube.

I've heard of some people making a block and running the block over the patch material.

Is that an improvement? Does one do both sides of the patch? Am I over-killing by dunking?

Suggestions?

In order to be good, practice, practice, practice
-- A. Oakley
 
I make a soft paste myself, like T/C's maxi-lube and rub it in on both sides...
I do not usually lube my patch until I am ready to load my musket, I found out the hard way that the patching material will pick up dirt and other bits of unwanted materials if pre-lubed.

I do have a few pre-lubed patches in a musket cap tin that are sealed from the elements, but for the most part, I lube and load...

My brother likes to pre-dunk his patches and says it's the only way to go...

Years ago, patch boxes were filled with a hard lube and patches were rubbed on the mixture, I believe they were using a mixture of bee's wax and tallow.
 

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