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which cap n ball?

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The stress is mainly on the arbor. The little pins just locate or align the barrel/frame assembly. Bending the arbor while loading is nigh impossible for mere mortals. I use a 25 grain charge in my Navys, because that's all I can get in there and still seat A .380 ball. This constitutes a maximum load. Don't have a target load per se; I use the full load for everything, including rabbits.

My Remington is a nice piece of workmanship. I understand it's limitations and factor them into the equation when I use it. I do the same with my Colts. Uberti did a fine job on my gun. A tiny bit of tuning was all it took to make the lock work crisp as can be. I have fired smokeless .45 Colt cartridges in it with no modification save an R&D conversion cylinder. The gun handled it with no problems. But my old wear silvered Colt New Model Army of 1860 also survived such usage. Both are now used exclusively with black powder, but that is a choice, not a necessity. To me the best feature of the Remington is the rapid changing of pre-loaded cylinders--an advantage somewhat diminished by the piece's tendency to foul itself to a stop all too quickly.

It's not the loading notch that I am talking about. Not the cut-out where the ball is rotated to before seating it. At the base of the cut out where it meets the bottom of the frame, the connection is actually two small metal legs. I have seen this area fractured on older guns. On my revolver, the area is quite thin (actually graceful and even elegant) and Uberti polished it up nicely. While I concede that chain-fires are rare--I admit that I've never had one--I do wonder what would happen to this area if one occurred. Perhaps that is what cracked those others frames?

Realizing that this is a purely subjective observation, I find the Colts to be much more handome in appearance. Their design surely must be the epitome of Victorian elegance. For pure grace, it is, to my eye, impossible to beat a square-back Navy. The early 1851 Model is truly a lovely little handgun. The Remington, while certainly far from ugly is perhaps more business like in looks, but not as pretty. As I look at the two of them side by side, and allowing for the fact that the Remington is pretty much denuded of finish, it is no contest. But the battered old bulldog of a Remington, with it's bobbed barrel and silvery metal, still rides in my holster very often.

So, how about those Starrs? Single or double action? Anybody got one? Or maybe a Rogers and Spencer?
 
So, how about those Starrs? Single or double action? Anybody got one? Or maybe a Rogers and Spencer?

I'd like to hear from Starr owners, also. One of the two places the originals were made is just a few miles away (Binghamton, NY). I'd have purchased on by now if not for my disappointment in the Pietta I currently own. More bucks, so I'm hoping they're a better quality.
 
I have seen and cycled both a single and a double action version at a gunshow. The single action wasn't bad--it felt like a little work with a fine stone would put it right. The double action version felt like it was full of gravel--like you'd have to jack up the front sight and slide a new revolver under it to fix it. The external fit and finish were pretty nice, maybe even Uberti level. I've seen prices from $325 to over $400 quoted.
If memory serves, weren't the Starrs a development of the Freeman revolvers? Or was that the Rogers and Spencer?
 
Bezoar:

After only 8 - 10 shots of blackpowder, I can't remove the cylinder pin. Only after I soak it in hot water and soap for a while, am I finally able to remove it. Maybe it is just my gun but I think the quick change cylinder is overblown. I like my Rem and Colt but if I was going into battle I believe I would take the Colt.
 
I coat the cylinder pin with "bore butter", lasts for 50 or so shots. A couple drops of water or moose milk will loosen it.
 
Are you using any kind of lubricant on the cylinder pin for your remmington? And you can scratch in your own grooves on it as well, ive seen a few photos of that being done.

Theres a website that deals with alot of modifications to cap and ball revolvers. can never remember the name, but a search for cartridge conversion at google, should turn it up. They also look at all the myths of c&b guns, really enjoyed their chain fire segment.
 
Bezoar:

I've tried bore butter but it seems to mix with the blackpowder and form glue. I've tried Remington gun oil. It seems to help but not for long. I worked the pin with an emory cloth to no avail. I finally bought a new pin. I have replaced it and loaded the gun. I haven't fired it yet so don't know if it will fix it or not.

Thanks for the advice.
 
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This is my favorite so far. It's a little hefty for holster carry, but you get used to it.
 
Ahh, a Colt style Dragoon. Is it a third model? I think I see a dovetail slot cut. Or maybe its just my eyes playing tricks on me.

Just :m2c:
 
Second model--it has the bolt leades and "square" bolt stops and a squareback trigger guard. Third models have the round guard.

I carry my Dragoons in a regular slim jim rig except I have a shoulder strap that supports the belt--Sam Brown style. Actually, I carry my Walkers the same way. The strap turns carrying these big guns from a chore to a pleasure. And any Dragoon revolver is a comfort on a long woods walk. Or any where else, for that matter.
 
Ahh, a Colt style Dragoon. Is it a third model? I think I see a dovetail slot cut. Or maybe its just my eyes playing tricks on me.

Actually it's a second model dragoon. Good call, Russ :thumbsup:.

And any Dragoon revolver is a comfort on a long woods walk. Or any where else, for that matter.

Correct again, Russ. I definitely agree with that statement. It's a lot of gun, and there's not much it won't do.
 
I always used high twemp wheel bearing grease on my Rem. cylinder pin and could fire 3-4 cylinders before it started getting to tight to cock and to pull the pin.
 

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