Which powder drum

[Antelope Pete]

I'm looking at different powder drums for my Leman build and have a question. Track's drums are either the ones with clean out screws or ones without that use a lug for installation what ever that is. It seems like the ones without are more historically accurate. I could order the Leman style but don't want to modify my lock plate from 1/2" to fit this Leman 9/16" drum. Cleaning the one without the screw should be easy with pipe cleaners I think. It does look like they do stick out farther though. What are your experiences with the screwless drums?

 

[SDSmlf]

Track's drums are either the ones with clean out screws or ones without that use a lug for installation what ever that is. It seems like the ones without are more historically accurate. I could order the Leman style but don't want to modify my lock plate from 1/2" to fit this Leman 9/16" drum.

Maybe consider modifying the drum from 9/16” to 1/2” and leave your lock plate as is. No access to a lathe or someone that has one, ask TOW if they will modify it for you. Shouldn’t cost very much.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

This is a Leman style drum made by a friend who has a lathe. Cleanout screws are not needed on a drum. It's not hard to fit a little larger drum to a lock plate, just takes a little filing and will probably result in a better fit. There's no need to remove the drum to get it clean either.

 

[Antelope Pete]

Thanks guys.
SDSmlf. I asked Track and they don't do that. They also said that a certain lathe collet (I don't remember what) is needed to not damage the threads.

Crisco Kid. Nice rifle. I was thinking about that but didn't want to run the risk of ruining the lock plate. Maybe I'm being too squeamish. Wouldn't I also have to modify the nipple install tool to fit the drum?

 

[Antelope Pete]

Crisco Kid. Also I just looked and the main spring fits right up just below the cutout and I think enlarging it would get into the spring tab. It's a Siler Mountain lock.

 

[Antelope Pete]

So I thought about using a cleanout screw drum and using JB Weld on the screw threads and then filing off most of the screw head leaving a flat surface, might not look too bad. The flats will still be present to tighten it. I'll have to call Track and ask what they mean with the "lug" installed drums. Not sure how you get those tight although many originals don't have flats to wrench tighten them.
This is my first drum gun having had Hawken style bolster guns in the past.

 

[longcruise]

I'll have to call Track and ask what they mean with the "lug" installed drums. Not sure how you get those tight although many originals don't have flats to wrench tighten them.

Notice the groove in the drum. You grab the lug with a pair of vice grips and turn it tight. After you have done that you mark for the point where you will drill for the nipple hole. Once drilled and tapped you re install, double check your alignment of nipple and hammer. Then you saw the lug off and file it flush.

You could also file flats on the lug to make it look like the picture @The Crisco Kid posted.

I've installed both types and I prefer the lugged.

 

[Antelope Pete]

Thanks longcruise. I understand now. I can see the advantage especially if you want to take the drum off and reinstall for some reason. The grooved one would look more authentic though. I have seen some photos of period ones that do have the wrench lug too just not as many. Either way I'm planning on using one without a cleanout screw.

 

[user 34300]

I was given some parts for a 1/2 stock Leman. The appropriate lock has not been available for some time. I bought a hammer and made the lock. I did not add a clean out screw. My research indicated a lot a variations in originals.

 

[Antelope Pete]

Scota. Thanks for posting. You did a good job, nice looking rifle. Making your own lock is impressive definitely beyond my ability. Yeah you right about the variation, just hardly any with a screw. I filed down the screw to take out the slot in a drum and it doesn't look too bad. Just a circular flat area.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

The lock on my rifle is a Siler, now known as Chambers. It didn't take much filing to get the drum to fit the cutout. I don't recall having any problems with the mainspring tab. I have had that happen when converting a flint to percussion but it's an easy fix. If you do the install use some Prussian blue to show the area to file. If you go from 1/2 to 9/16 that's only 1/32 per side which is .031". Not much filing. The drum should contact the lock plate according to some so that it adds support. I believe this myself. Don't worry too much about doing the work. Just take your time, be careful, and go for it.
I don't get your meaning about the nipple wrench. Mine seem to fit just fine.

 

[Antelope Pete]

I don't get your meaning about the nipple wrench. Mine seem to fit just fine.

Hi Crisco. Maybe I'm just not seeing it but I don't know where I mentioned about a nipple wrench. As far as the 9/16" drum I'll think about it, you make some good points. Thanks

 

[The Crisco Kid]

Thanks guys.
SDSmlf. I asked Track and they don't do that. They also said that a certain lathe collet (I don't remember what) is needed to not damage the threads.

Crisco Kid. Nice rifle. I was thinking about that but didn't want to run the risk of ruining the lock plate. Maybe I'm being too squeamish. Wouldn't I also have to modify the nipple install tool to fit the drum?

Your last sentence is what I took to mean a nipple wrench. What ever you decide to do, I hope your day goes better than mine did! I won't elaborate until I see if I repaired todays disaster after the glue sets up.

 

[Antelope Pete]

Thanks Crisco. I hope you get your "disaster" fixed. Working on the rifle I am building I'm realizing I like leather work and making powder horns better. With guns it's too easy to screw up and it can be hard or impossible to fix and usually happens after there's a lot of hours into it.

 

[bptactical]

So I thought about using a cleanout screw drum and using JB Weld on the screw threads and then filing off most of the screw head

Don’t do that- cut the head off of the screw, run the shank in but leave 2-3 threads proud.
Peen them over then file it down. Peening a small diameter screw will make it expand and lock into place.

 

[Antelope Pete]

bptactical. Never thought of that. If the screw could be made to blend in with the drum especially after browning that would work. Thanks.

 

[tallPercshooter]

I like a drum with a cleanout screw so I don't have to remove the nipple to clean the flash channel. Seems like taking nipple in and out will eventually wear those critical threads. I use stainless nipples and never remove them. Run an oily pipecleaner thru drum as my last step in cleaning.

 

[longcruise]

I always remove the nipple and the "cleanout" screw if there is one. I've never inserted anything into a drum or standing breech to clean. The rush of water through the breech seems to clean things up just fine.

The reason I maintain the clean out screw and threads is in case of a dryball it's easier to trickle powder through than the 90 degree hole for the nipple.

 

[Antelope Pete]

Seems like taking the clean out screw every time could wear threads just as much as the nipple. Authentic solid bolster guns like Hawkens don't have a clean out and so the nipple has to be removed. Original drums didn't have clean outs at least not many. I put anti seize on the nipple threads to try and minimize wear.