Why Awl?

[Walker357]

Got a dume question. When sticthing leather, what is the advantage to using a triangular awl, or is there any? I use a round one I made with a large needle and it seems to work just fine. Thanks. :grin:

 

[paulvallandigham]

Round holes tear, or can tear; triangular ones don't. That is the advantage.

 

[BrownBear]

A whole lot depends on the leather you're using, the awls themselves, and how securely you're holding the leather.

A well-sharpened triangular awl pierces leather a lot easier than round in my experience, and especially heavier leathers. Contrary to what you just heard, I've not had any problems with round ones tearing, but you're thoroughly scrawed if you get close to an edge with the triangular ones.

Round is a real advantage for curved awls used to do angled or rounded butt- or lap-joints. Howcum? Because you can heat and bend them into a curve that matches your job. You can put a curving hole through the leather and use needles with the same curve for a much more secure joint. And I aint seen a curved triangular awl or needle yet that would do the same work. Not a job for bag making surely, but if you make more than shooting bags from leather, you could run into the need.

 

[T.C.Albert]

Most of the awls used for finer work actually have of a flattened diamond shaped lance type point.They swell near the point, and only "cut" one size slit, rather than getting wider and thus cutting a slit wider the closer you get towards their handles. (harness type awls do get wider and wider, but are still more diamond in cross section.)And when sharp actually do cut rather than force the perforation.

Traditional saddle stitches will admit the threaded needle eyes, lay nicer and fill a "slit" much better than a hole. And I do think when stressed during use,like on a seam, cut slits would tear less than holes.Also, making a perforation through multipul layers of leather, like when installing a welt between two panels of leather, is more easily accompolished with a good sharp awl rather than a pick or needle.

That said, if you dont have an awl, or find you do good or better work with round holes rather than awled slits, then definately use what you like best or have available to you...
(ps..some cobblers and sadlers awls were made with a curve or set to the blade as needed.)
TCA

 

[John Wasmuth]

If your sewing buckskin or deer skin, soft elk, soft buffalo and the like, you can use a triangle glovers needle and skip the prepunching with an awl.

 

[davemcg]

I've always just used a round awl, and regular sewing needles, seems to work for me on elk, deer, and cow leather.
I usually sew about an 1/8 or so from the edge of the buck skin.
Haven't ever tried just using a glovers needle without the awl first.
Thus far all of my hide sewing has been on chrome tan, does braintan sew easier?

Another thing I do is keep a small scrap piece of buckskin handy to push the needle on through the hole, keeps the end of the needle from piercing your finger tip

 

[LaBonte]

Traditional saddle stitches will admit the threaded needle eyes, lay nicer and fill a "slit" much better than a hole. And I do think when stressed during use,like on a seam, cut slits would tear less than holes.

The first part is true and the list will close up better when done right (when done wrong the stitches look like crap).

As to strength - unfortunately no, modern testing between the two have shown no real difference when done with an awl. Drilled holes (which remove material) have in fact been tested as well and in veg/bark tan the seams have in fact proven to be stronger and less prone to tearing.

The major advantage to the diamond shaped awl (when properly sharpened and polished) is the ease of pushing through heavier leathers as well as the "look".

For soft thin leathers like buckskin and elk hide a size 0 or #1 glover's needle with three cord linen thread is an excellent choice.....just keep an awl handy for those tough spots......

 

[BrownBear]

The biggest thing to watch with glovers needles and a saddle stitch is piercing or cutting the first thread as you pass through the second needle. You're very likely to cut or fray the thread a time or two till you get the angles and thread tension figured out.

The best solution I've found for avoiding that, along with avoiding holes in fingers, is a stitching pony or horse to hold your leather really stable and secure. Seems like every time I get in a hurry and try to handhold the leather I start cutting the thread and spearing fingers.

 

[John Wasmuth]

Brain tan sews real nice. Being as soft and thin as whitetail brain tan is, you have to be careful to pull the edges straight to avoid seam shrinkage. In otherwords the seams will bunch and shorten the length of the item one is working on. I avoid this by pinning at about every 6 inches and after a run of whipping and reaching the pin, pull the seams straight.Its not such a problem with heavier skins like elk, moose, sika, red deer, and buffalo.
If you are doing heavier hides Vandykes taxidermy supply has some 6 inch triangle needles that work well.

 

[omarick1948]

If your sewing buckskin or deer skin, soft elk, soft buffalo and the like, you can use a triangle glovers needle and skip the prepunching with an awl.

I like Glovers Needles also, especially in softer leathers. Another advantage is they come in a variety of sizes!

Rick

 

[John Wasmuth]

Heck yes sir! I use them for everything from taxidermy work to sewing buckskins together. Best thing about em is that you can run them over a stone and take the burrs off of them and they dont require pulling thru most any type of leather with pliers. Disadvantage is they will go clean thru to the bone if you aint careful! :rotf:

 

[T.C.Albert]

LaBonte,
Thanks for the updated information on the tests of holes versus awl slits for strength.
TCA

 

[BillinOregon]

T.C. And thank YOU for your wonderful book, "Recreating the 18th Century Hunting Pouch." That and the Sibleys' book on powder horns are real favorites in my home.

 

[T.C.Albert]

Thank you very much BillinOregon...I appreciate the kind words and am very glad you find my book of use...sincerely,
TCA

 

[longcruise]

That and the Sibleys' book on powder horns are real favorites in my home

I'll second that motion. Since I got TC's book a bit over a year ago I'v made up five bags. At this point I've graduated to my own patterns and ideas (as well as some other peoples ideas) and my bags are getting to be a bit more personalized.

Never would have gotten started without the book!

 

[jethro224]

I got started without the book... wish I woulda waited. :shake: