Will a claw hammer work as a makeshift "wedge puller?"

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TC used to include a combination wedge pin puller and nipple wrench with their rifles. Now sellers want big bucks for that tool:

https://rmcoxyoke.com/product/wedge-pin-puller/
Buy yourself a tack puller at Ace Hardware or ebay:

https://www.ebay.com/i/252427486600...1291&msclkid=95df94e5160817b52fa9cba48a9e92eb




The wedge in my halfstock comes out with small effort. I did own MLs with somewhat tighter wedge fit, and still have that little combo tool. It's a great little tool.
 
Why not just spend $4 errr $5 (what one cost 1 err 2 years ago when I got mine) and get a NOS Thomoson Center wedge puller/nipple wrench combo tool?
They easy enough to find.
TOW has them.
They do work on ML's that are not Thomson Center, you know?
 
I am a connoisseur of wedge wackers. The little claw hammer is out of my wifes craft box it has a removable plastic cap and a screwdriver set in the handle. I think it would suit your needs. I would get a small piece of 1/8 inch aluminum plate to protect the stock when prying on the wedge. The pic to the right is a wedge wacker that I made. I carry it when I out shooting. There is a brass rod inside and a 36 cal RB under the cap for weight.

IMG_0372.JPGIMG_0374.JPG
 
"It will extend from the 17” as you show it out to 23” for that extra leverage to pull even the tightest wedges without the need to add a cheater bar."

Using a 23" bar seems like a real good way to dent the wood on the stock and possibly canting one of the escushions pulling the wedge out. Seems tapping a wedge out that tight would make more sense, at least to me..

I think you'll find that the comment you have quoted was intended to be humorous, and not a factual recommendation.
 
I did not realize that.

In all honesty, since reading here since 2004, I have read a lot of strange things and concepts. that some folks have regarding M/L fire arms and practices.
 
Awww, gives me something to read and chuckle over.
I’ve always used a length of stainless shark leader wrapped around the wedge, set the smoke pole between two trees and hitched up to my mule. Sorry, just couldn’t help myself.

Whatever you use, take it slow and easy. Too easy to slip off and damage your escutcheon or stock.
 
I have a very small ball-peen hammer in my kit box. I was struggling with tight wedges so I got a spring type clothes pin and took it apart. The thin handle end works great for driving out tight wedges. You could carve one out of wood or plastic or just eat a purple popsicle. Gotta be purple though or the stick won't work.:ghostly:
 
.......... wondering what size of tool loop to stitch onto my hunting pouch to carry one of them wedge whackers ......
Ye know, this child has a wee 4-pound sledge with a short handle. That'd probably do the trick!
 
I’ve always used a length of stainless shark leader wrapped around the wedge, set the smoke pole between two trees and hitched up to my mule. Sorry, just couldn’t help myself.

I was always opined that the true trappers did love a good laugh
 
I don’t know why you couldn’t sprinkle a little powder in the backside of the escutcheon and blow the wedge key out!
 
I also call my wedges keys that fit into a dovetailed barrel lug or a peened staple, My keys are drilled, slotted and captured so that don't completely come out and get lost. I made a key or wedge mover that is like a parallel bladed screw driver tip by grinding a piece of brass rod. It fits in my shooting bag. A steel or iron screwdriver could mar an escuteon or the wood where there is no escuteon. If ou don't capture your wedge you should take the precaution of packing an extra and identical key or wedge.
 
Caught my typo on escutcheon. Thompson Center used to make and market a key remover for their Hawken wannabe. Haven't seen it in any catalogs lately.
 
I don't have a wedge puller and my old method of removing my CVA's wedge isn't going to work on my TC's. The CVA, I pushed it from one side (with my thumb? don't recall for sure) and then pulled it out with my thumb and finger.

The TC's though, not going to happen that way! Can I just use a claw hammer, perhaps padded to prevent marring the wood, or will I bend the brass wedge head?
You didn’t state the caliber. If bore diameter is more than 2 inches then yes, a claw hammer would be appropriate. Otherwise there are better ways. Why not file or sand them gently until you can push them in and out with fair thumb pressure? Not having to carry one more gizmo is nice I think.
 
"I also call my wedges keys that fit into a dovetailed barrel

In the Log Cabin Shop catalog they are called keys. In the Dixie catalog they are called wedges.

"Thompson Center used to make and market a key remover for their Hawken wannabe"

Midsouth has them, they are called a Wedge Pin Puller, $5.78.

Now what is the name for a man purse with M/L stuff in it?
 
Folks, this is being over complicated. Though I must admit the suggestion on Page 4 to put powder under it to blow it out was not one of the solutions that crossed my mind....but I would be an interested observer.

IMO, you should be able to push the key/wedge out with firm finger pressure. Less than that it can fall out and be lost, more than that just tap it out with your ball starter, push with a patch knife, turn screw or eve a stick. If it is too short to push on, get a longer key/wedge.

If it is so tight you need to hammer it in and out, put a 10d finishing nail parallel to the jaws of your vise, put the key/wedge across the nail and give it a slight whack with a hammer to put a tiny bit of bend in it. Now place it back in the slot. If it is even harder to enter, turn it over so the bend is going the other way. Bend a little more or less if it is too tight or too loose. How do you tell if it is too loose? Well, that's when you have to order one or two replacement keys/wedges after each trip to the range. Once you get it right, it should last for 20-30 years or so. Mine have so far.
 
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