Will this leather work for a cows knee?

[Brokennock]

@HighUintas, I would suggest a much lighter leather, something that will easily conform to your gun to help seal things up. A possible source for such leather could be places like Good Will or the Salvation Army. Look for old leather coats, jackets and purses. You will be supporting these institutions and finding leather that will work.

I agree on the thinner softer leather (but it's what he has for now).
This is one of the very few good uses for that Tandy "buckskin" many of us usually like to criticize. The large amount of mink oil and neatsfoot oil worked into the leather takes care of the horrible color

 

[Brokennock]

These two are made from the pattern provided. I strongly suggest adding at least an inch in both width amd length, I might have added two inches in length for the longer one. Made to the dimensions given it is just barely large enough for my Early Virginia with Large Siler lock, and too small for the Fusil des Chase.
These are made with cheap Tandy buckskin, or similar (I don't remember where I sourced the leather).
I put a thick smear of patch lube across the barrel where the front edge of the leather crosses it, and a blob in the corner created by the side barrel flat and the stock when tying the cover on.

 

[Brokennock]

I might have adjusted the width of the triangle cutouts too, to get more of a peak. Again, memory fails and I didn't write it down like I should have.

 

[Capt. Jas.]

We have a modern inclination that good veg tan needs to be soft and floppy like a lot of chrome tanned stuff we see these days. 2-3 oz vegetable tanned is fine for this application and if you wet form it, you will have a perfect fit to your lock and gun. There is no need to prematurely wear out the integrity of the leather to make it floppy like a piece of cloth or brain tan garment material.

 

[Johnny Tremain]

Out here in the Pacific North Wet, hunting season is rain season.
The only thing Ive ever used on the pan is a crayon. I coat the lid of the frizzen, and the top ridge of the pan. Ive gotten clack bang every time.

 

[HighUintas]

If that is accurate information, I would try it.
I make my own mixture for this purpose and for lubing wads and patches. But, sometimes it's nice to be able to grab something that is ready to go and consistent each time you buy it.

That is why I looked into it. I'm out of TOW mink oil.

Here's my quick fix for today. My wife convinced me to not try to rush through making a leather one for this weekend. It's a scrap from an old cloth diaper bag. Some sort of poly coated fabric.

 

[Brokennock]

We have a modern inclination that good veg tan needs to be soft and floppy like a lot of chrome tanned stuff we see these days. 2-3 oz vegetable tanned is fine for this application and if you wet form it, you will have a perfect fit to your lock and gun. There is no need to prematurely wear out the integrity of the leather to make it floppy like a piece of cloth or brain tan garment material.

All very true.
The thought of wet forming veg tan to the lock/lock area honestly scares me. It is one place I really don't feel comfortable leaving wet leather sitting against for an extended period of time. Other things I've wet molded I was able to easily wrap with plastic wrap, the lock area seems pretty complex for that.... But,,, I'm not the expert you are.

I'm not sure how I would carry a stiff and/or wet molded cow's knee when not in use either. The soft one folds or rolls into a package that takes very little space in a waistcoat pocket or a bag. I've even rolled mine up and lashed it to my shot pouch strap.

I guess if I can get up the courage to wet mold one,,, I'll have to try it to see how to work with it.

 

[Capt. Jas.]

All very true.
The thought of wet forming veg tan to the lock/lock area honestly scares me. It is one place I really don't feel comfortable leaving wet leather sitting against for an extended period of time. Other things I've wet molded I was able to easily wrap with plastic wrap, the lock area seems pretty complex for that.... But,,, I'm not the expert you are.

I'm not sure how I would carry a stiff and/or wet molded cow's knee when not in use either. The soft one folds or rolls into a package that takes very little space in a waistcoat pocket or a bag. I've even rolled mine up and lashed it to my shot pouch strap.

I guess if I can get up the courage to wet mold one,,, I'll have to try it to see how to work with it.

Give it a try. It will naturally soften on its own but still retain its shape to fit.

 

[HighUintas]

One reason I like the idea of using this stiffer leather is that I thought I might occasionally want to put it on when brush busting. Some of the smaller trees and shrubs we have in Utah can be miserable to get through and are great at tearing holes in clothes, etc. I imagine the flint could get knocked out of the jaws by a surly scrub oaks branch fairly easily

 

[bud in pa]

One thing that I always do is to dribble some candle wax along the barrel and stock for about 6 inches in front of the lock. Keeps the rain from running down the joint into the lock.

 

[Brokennock]

One reason I like the idea of using this stiffer leather is that I thought I might occasionally want to put it on when brush busting. Some of the smaller trees and shrubs we have in Utah can be miserable to get through and are great at tearing holes in clothes, etc. I imagine the flint could get knocked out of the jaws by a surly scrub oaks branch fairly easily

I often keep the cover over my lock, even untied sometimes, if it has been at all wet or snowy. Wet and snow can easily fall off trees and brush into one's lock....

 

[HighUintas]

Here it is. I just need to work a lot more neatsfoot oil and then obenaufs into it.

 

[Brokennock]

Very nice. You did a good job.
How well does the front edge conform to the barrel and stock?

 

[HighUintas]

Very nice. You did a good job.
How well does the front edge conform to the barrel and stock?

Yes, despite the leather not being supple, it does seem to seal pretty well when I wrap the strap around as pictured.

Not having stitching on the front half seems to help. The rear where the stitching is doesn't seal as well.

I thought I'd test it out as is and see if I need to try to wet mold it to get a better seal.

 

[Brokennock]

Yes, despite the leather not being supple, it does seem to seal pretty well when I wrap the strap around as pictured.

Not having stitching on the front half seems to help. The rear where the stitching is doesn't seal as well.

I thought I'd test it out as is and see if I need to try to wet mold it to get a better seal.

Do you have a paper or cardboard pattern of it?

 

[HighUintas]

Do you have a paper or cardboard pattern of it?

Yes. 8"x13.25"

I glued in a strip of leather, probably 1/4" wide, between the two halves where the stitching goes. It provided a better seal of the upper end where the fold is, rather than trying to smash that crease perfectly flat.

 

[Brokennock]

Awesome. Thank you.
8" across widest point and 13.25" at tallest?

 

[stikshooter]

Yes. 8"x13.25"

View attachment 275002

I glued in a strip of leather, probably 1/4" wide, between the two halves where the stitching goes. It provided a better seal of the upper end where the fold is, rather than trying to smash that crease perfectly flat.

View attachment 275003

Impressive work and in the off season I'd use it for my C+B carry !!/Ed

 

[HighUintas]

Awesome. Thank you.
8" across widest point and 13.25" at tallest?

Yes. If I get to scanning it at some point, I'll attach a file here where it could be printed to size

 

[HighUintas]

Impressive work and in the off season I'd use it for my C+B carry !!/Ed

Thanks