Wiping between shots 2

[Aline]

Hello,
Just some feedback. I went to the range this morning. Tried water to wipe the bore between shots, instead of spit. Used a small spray bottle to spray some water on the patches. Didn

 

Another good one is the black coloured, BP solvent concentrate, by Birchwood Casey I think. I tried it some time ago, as it mixes with water, yet is supposed to be a rust preventative-when it dries, I guess. When diluted as suggested, it gives the water a black-cast in appearance. Seems to work as well as or perhaps better than water, but for shooting or hunting in the summer, due to it's supposedly having rust preventitive qualities, it would be better yet. A water-type patch lube that
:: 1/. would allow shooting all day wihtout haivng to clean, yet was also a rust preventitive.
:: 2/. has the ease of application as if it was straight water - nothing easier than that - not greasy to touch - no mess. Put the patches in one of Track's snuff boxes(that's what I use for lubed patches)& go shooting squirt the diluted lube n them and go shooting - no rust- no rot - great!
Daryl

 

[nvbirdman]

Spit is easier to carry than a spray bottle.

 

[sabotloader]

Aline, have you tried "windex" the kind with ammonia. I have gone to using that to clean the bore with after a day at the range. 4 saturated patches and she is pretty shiny clean - might try some of that in your spray bottle. It literally melts T7, if you are using real BP I don't know what the results would be but, I bet it would work

 

:no: I use ammonia cleaners for removing copper from my varmint rifles - I NEVER leave it in the bore for more than 15 min as recommended by the mfg'r. Only the ammonia cleaners have this warning. It's potentially harmful on stainless steel and ChromeMoly Steel - more so on some ML barrel steel. (4140 steel is Chrome Moly.)
Daryl

 

[sabotloader]

Daryl, I have only used the windex for a short period time but have found it very effective. It has been widely discussed on and praised on another board. The information is based on an article which I have cut a portion out of>

Dan Lilja of Lilja Precision Rifle barrels has never seen any damage in one of his barrels caused by the use of ammonia. Dan writes: "The rumor is that copper-removing cleaners with ammonia will pit and damage the interior surface of a barrel. Ammonia is very effective as a copper remover. We use solvents, such as Butch's Bore Shine, to remove copper during the break-in. We routinely leave Butch's solution in the barrel over night too. Again, I repeat, we have never seen a problem with ammonia in the concentrations found in commercial cleaners, in either our chrome-moly or stainless steel barrels. This includes examination with our borescope." Black powder enthusiasts have universally praised Dan's personal favorite barrel cleaning solvent, "Butch's Bore Shine."

Just thought I would toss this out.

 

That's fine - Dan's opinion is that it will do no harm. The varmint and other forums have many stories of pitted barrels, etc. The manufacturers of Sweets and CR10 say to not leave it longer than 15 minutes. For my $400.00 barrels, I follow that advice. I merely thought the warning of the ammonia solvent makers, should be brought forward.
; If it works for you, Great.
Daryl

 

Ahhhhhhhhhhhh, to wipe twixt shots or not to wipe twixt shots, that IS the question!
I'm an unrepentant swabber. I've done a lot of chronographing with b.p. rifles and have learned that the pro's that write the books are right.
Wiping between shots does give more consistant velocity readings and probably contributes to better accuracy.
Wiping between shots leaves the bore in a consistant condition shot after shot, not clean really, but consistant.
Remember your shot at a game animal will likely be from a clean bore.
Also wiping between shots makes loading easier at least for me.
I use 91% ordinary drug store rubbing alcohol for a wet p[atch followed by a dry patch. Only takes a couple seconds and if you miss any alcohol with the dry patch (unlikely) it will evaporate quickly and probably will not contaminate the powder.
Just my two cents worth. ::

 

[roundball]

Biggest benefit of commercial natural lube 1000 for me (a.k.a.wonder lube 1000, bore butter, etc)
is that no wiping between shots is necessary at all...let's me go to the range and just enjoy shooting, not cleaning.

Ran 40 shots through a .45cal flinter Saturday without wiping and was still getting cloverleafs on the 40th shot.

Their main drawback when shooting a lot is that they're annoyingly expensive and I havn't figured out a successful way to duplicate them at home

 

[Ironwood]

I'm a between the shots wiper also. Like I've said previously, I just keep a jug of water down at the range. Right now that jug is sitting on the only dry spot on the whole range. I use only a cleaning patch and water, followed by a dry patch for between shots wiping.

I do have Moosemilk in a small pump spray bottle for use on roundball patches. My rifle is much more accurate with Moosemilk than with spit. The rifle doesn't like spit and I don't like the taste of pillow ticking so Moosemilk works fine for me.

 

[JesseJames]

I'am with Roundball to each is own. A buddy and myself shot sixty rd. each at the range,we went from the range to a turkey shoot. At the turkey shoot shot another 10 took two first and came in second twice and never clean the rifle. Use 70 pyro. with maxie balls and crisco.

 

Even though I use Wonder lube patches,I feel that I will have to run a patch between shots with my Blue Ridge flinter,as has been discussed in a thread started by me last month.NOW,can someone tell me what to do while on a trailwalk,shooting out of the bag,in primitive attire,with all of those nasty patches that come out of the barrel without getting everything messed up.I don't want to litter the grounds,and I still want to be as authentic as possible.I will have around 19 or 20 patches.

 

[Ohio Joe]

On woods walks and mountainman run, competitions that I've been involved in, I notice some folks just bring a cleaning rod with a bore brush and run it in and out the bore once, then reload. Some have spit on the brush before using it... For myself, I just load lite, 45 grains 3fg Goex in my .45 cal. longrifle, (also prime with it in timed events). I've never had a problem getting off all the shots, even when there's ten to take. Just play the windage and elevation game with the lesser load...

 

I use "spit" fer lube, so ALL my patchs wind-up 'bout 20' from the "trail" when I shoot.

In timed-events such as the "mountain man run",....I'm also "make'n time" with my feet, while those thet wipe 'tween shots are "stand'n still"!

This "crippled blind child" needs any advantage in timed-events thet he can git, and "spit" serves me well and has helped me win "my fair share'a prizes" over the years :: /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif!!!!

 

[cayugad]

A very good and inexpensive swab is denatured alcohol that you can buy at a hardware store. I keep a small spray bottle of it (eye glass cleaner bottle) and some old cut up cotton socks for cleaning patches.

The nice thing about denatured alcohol is beside collecting the fowling and bringing it out of the bore, it dries almost at once. I actually send down a saturated swab, clean out the fowling and then two dry ones and the bore is clean and dry for the next shot. On some sidelocks you will find it helpful if you pop a cap through the nipple to clean that out before you reload. It will also burn off anything that might be left in the barrel.

In the summer I mix that 50/50 denatured alcohol and windshield washer fluid. Winter is straigt alcohol. It was working good today for me when I was shooting... ::

 

[Hawkeye]

I don't think I would use windex with amonia in any black powder rifle I own, there is nothing in the fowling which water will not remove. If you simply must use something some of the folks I shoot black powder cartridge rifles with swear by windex with vinegar.

Watch 'yer topknot

Hawkeye