hmeier4799
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Info that I read on the Forum indicated that revolver shooters wipe the bore after 5 shots. Would it be better to wipe (damp patch) between each shot?
Wiping revolver barrel between shots
- Thread starter hmeier4799
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Perhaps for extreme attempts at accuracy.
IMHO it would be senseless for a Colt revolver. It's just not a target pistol to begin with. I've gone through a whole box of 100 balls without wiping in a single session.
You should never wipe the bore with a loaded & primed cylinder in place, anyway. Kind of defeats the purpose of a multi-shot pistol.
IMHO it would be senseless for a Colt revolver. It's just not a target pistol to begin with. I've gone through a whole box of 100 balls without wiping in a single session.
You should never wipe the bore with a loaded & primed cylinder in place, anyway. Kind of defeats the purpose of a multi-shot pistol.
NO NO NO Do not EVER place any part of your body you don't want a hole shot in, in front of a loaded revolover. Seriously if your revolver is fowling so badly you need to clean between each shot you need more lube. I've been shooting Cowboy Action with a brace of 1851 Navy's and only clean at the end of the day, I've shot 45-50 shots with no reduction in shootability. I load about 18 grains of Swiss 3F, a wonder wad, and a .375 cast ball.
hmeier4799
36 Cal.
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I shoulde have explained that I am loading only one chamber and would be wiping the bore before loading that chamber each time. I would not wipe the bore of a loaded gun.
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Sounds like you are shooting for extreme accuracy then. I'm glad to hear everybody concerned about safety. It's always amazed me what some idiots will do with a loaded weapon.
I have an 1858 Army Remington brass frame that I just love to shoot. I've never had any problems with fouling with 3F powder, even up to 25 or 30 grains and bunches of rounds.
I have an 1858 Army Remington brass frame that I just love to shoot. I've never had any problems with fouling with 3F powder, even up to 25 or 30 grains and bunches of rounds.
I picked up a 5.5 inch Uberti Remington last month. Decided I would qualify with it to carry as an off duty gun. The state course is a 50 round course ranging from 7 - 25 yards. All stages are timed and the only one that required a timed reload is at the 7. This gun came with 4 cylinders so no big deal. I did some warm up shots then the state course. Then folks decided they wanted to shoot it. All told about 75 rounds. No decrease in accuracy. The ease of bringing to natural point was great. No need to wipe the barrel. NO malfunctions, etc. It was dirty when we all got done but had a great time. You may want extreme accuaracy, but dont know if the human frame can notice the difference between the wiped shots or the unwiped.
If you loaded a revolver and shot once, you still have 5 loaded and primed cylinders to contend with, all it takes is for one of those percussion caps to get hit and BANG, you have another hole in you... (if your lucky enough to survive it)
Personally, it's not worth the risk...
Buy yourself a single shot pistol and swab between shots until you can't swab no more...
It's safe to swab the revolver between loadings (all chambers empty), sorry all these replies may seem harsh, but we all aim to keep you alive...
Personally, it's not worth the risk...
Buy yourself a single shot pistol and swab between shots until you can't swab no more...
It's safe to swab the revolver between loadings (all chambers empty), sorry all these replies may seem harsh, but we all aim to keep you alive...
There is no need to wipe a revolver's bore IF you use a stiff, felt wad --- properly lubricated --- between the ball and powder.
A proper wad, with the proper lubricant, will wipe the bore almost free of fouling with each shot. This cannot be said of Wonder Wads, with their dry lubricant. The felt wad must have a grease-type lubricant, and it must be a particular type of lubricant.
Crisco won't do it: too soft. Beeswax is okay but lacks the moistness required to keep the fouling soft.
Here's the recipe I found in a 1943 American Rifleman magazine that is, by far, the best lubricant I've found for lubricating felt wads:
1 part canning paraffin (sold in the grocery store)
1 part mutton tallow (sold by Dixie Gun Works)
1/2 part beeswax
All measurements are by weight, not volume. I use a kitchen scale to measure 200/200/100 grams of ingredients, which all goes into a quart, widemouth Mason jar.
The jar is then placed in a small pot of boiling water, four or five inches deep, for a double-boiler effect.
When all ingredients are melted, stir well with a clean stick or disposable chopstick. Allow to cool at room temperature; hastening cooling by placing in the fridge may cause the ingredients to separate.
You cannot substitute the above ingredients. Doing so will result in an inferior lubricant. Mutton tallow is better than lard, Crisco or any of the game (elk, deer or bear) tallows for this purpose.
The above lubricant is a wonderful black powder lubricant for all applicaions: felt wads, patches, bare bullets and over the balls in cap and ball revolvers.
A felt wad soaked in the above, when placed between the ball and powder (in rifle, pistol or revolver) will keep the bore rather clean shot-to-shot.
I have my own theory about this. I believe that the addition of paraffin stiffens the felt wad somewhat, making it a more effective fouling scraper. I've tried other lubricants with felt wads and the above recipe is clearly the best. It's also excellent for lead bullets loaded in black powder cartridges, such as the .44-40 or .45-70.
There's no need to wipe down a revolver bore with each shot. If you're only loading one chamber at a time, to determine which chamber is the most accurate, I suppose you could.
But better still, load a stiff felt wad with the above lubricant between the ball and bullet. It will keep the bore rather clean, with little more than a fine black ash. Most of the fouling will be pushed out by the greased wad.
A proper wad, with the proper lubricant, will wipe the bore almost free of fouling with each shot. This cannot be said of Wonder Wads, with their dry lubricant. The felt wad must have a grease-type lubricant, and it must be a particular type of lubricant.
Crisco won't do it: too soft. Beeswax is okay but lacks the moistness required to keep the fouling soft.
Here's the recipe I found in a 1943 American Rifleman magazine that is, by far, the best lubricant I've found for lubricating felt wads:
1 part canning paraffin (sold in the grocery store)
1 part mutton tallow (sold by Dixie Gun Works)
1/2 part beeswax
All measurements are by weight, not volume. I use a kitchen scale to measure 200/200/100 grams of ingredients, which all goes into a quart, widemouth Mason jar.
The jar is then placed in a small pot of boiling water, four or five inches deep, for a double-boiler effect.
When all ingredients are melted, stir well with a clean stick or disposable chopstick. Allow to cool at room temperature; hastening cooling by placing in the fridge may cause the ingredients to separate.
You cannot substitute the above ingredients. Doing so will result in an inferior lubricant. Mutton tallow is better than lard, Crisco or any of the game (elk, deer or bear) tallows for this purpose.
The above lubricant is a wonderful black powder lubricant for all applicaions: felt wads, patches, bare bullets and over the balls in cap and ball revolvers.
A felt wad soaked in the above, when placed between the ball and powder (in rifle, pistol or revolver) will keep the bore rather clean shot-to-shot.
I have my own theory about this. I believe that the addition of paraffin stiffens the felt wad somewhat, making it a more effective fouling scraper. I've tried other lubricants with felt wads and the above recipe is clearly the best. It's also excellent for lead bullets loaded in black powder cartridges, such as the .44-40 or .45-70.
There's no need to wipe down a revolver bore with each shot. If you're only loading one chamber at a time, to determine which chamber is the most accurate, I suppose you could.
But better still, load a stiff felt wad with the above lubricant between the ball and bullet. It will keep the bore rather clean, with little more than a fine black ash. Most of the fouling will be pushed out by the greased wad.
I use one lube for all 2-2.5 parts bearfat and 1 part beeswax, melted and pour in a tin. Works well for those modern revolvers, my fusil, .54 southern and my flint pistols. Works great on leather and in a pinch is fine to use in the frying pan. :redthumb:
If you are trying to achieve the best your revolver can deliver, then try shooting 3-5 shots from each chamber from a suitable rest; this should prove that one particular chamber is more accurate than the others; if it is, then continue to use this chamber exclusively. For the sake of the exercise I would be inclined to wipe the barrel after each shot; it can't hurt to try and it may work better for you.
When I purchased a Uberti Schoefield some years ago, I tried the above and found there were two chambers that were significantly better that the others; one of these two was slightly better than the other. An unfortunate feature of this firearm is that even with modest loads the barrel fouls very much, therefore, I shoot one shot from the good chamber and wipe the barrel after each shot. (Of course this did not go down well at one of the clubs that I shoot at, and as a consequence, this particular event was changed from 30 minutes to 15; even so, I still kept on winning this event!)
:thumbsup:
Jim.
When I purchased a Uberti Schoefield some years ago, I tried the above and found there were two chambers that were significantly better that the others; one of these two was slightly better than the other. An unfortunate feature of this firearm is that even with modest loads the barrel fouls very much, therefore, I shoot one shot from the good chamber and wipe the barrel after each shot. (Of course this did not go down well at one of the clubs that I shoot at, and as a consequence, this particular event was changed from 30 minutes to 15; even so, I still kept on winning this event!)
:thumbsup:
Jim.
