Wire inlay tools

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Allan Gray

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Anyone know a source for wire inlay tools?
I've made them from hacksaw blades but they don't seem to last long, and are a hassle to get just right.
Any other thoughts?

Many thanks...
 
Ditto! Also would anyone be willing to post a pictorial description on how to inlay? Please? :grin:
 
2 books that I got from Track of the wolf, "Gunsmithing tips and projects" and "Building the American longrifle" both have decent sections on wire inlay. It's not that hard, coming up with and drawing the pattern you want is the worst part.

I seem to remember seeing wire inlay tools offered on-line some time ago but I can't recall where. :hmm:
 
Sorry, that's "Recreating the American longrifle"
Looks like "Gunsmithing tips and projects" is out of print. :redface:
 
I've used the same hacksaw blade cutters on several feet of wire and a ton of carving, Dad made them years ago and has used them more... did you re-harden it after it was shaped?
 
and Roy....""on several feet of wire """ lets remember... :hmm: we have several FEET of wire too go! right Swampy!! :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:
 
You do... they just aren't there yet... Actually I need to harden them... the one I use the most is the short straight one.
 
I must fess up and admit that I'm not an expert at heat treating metal. The tools I've made from hacksaw blades I've kept cool while grinding to shape...not easy as they get thinner.
I've also shaped a couple out of old, cheap carving tools.
Would one of you gentlemen share your recipe for hardening these things?
I'm guessing that you heat 'till cherry red and quench in oil, or water? :confused:

Again, many thanks!
 
To Mr. Grey, and all interested. I've had a little experience at silver wire inlaying and I'm afraid you might laugh at the tools I use but here goes. Being a custom knifemaker, my tools may be a bit scaled down from those required when inlaying a gun stock, but I believed the tool design needs to be the same. Straight line inlaying I do use varying sizes(meaning widths) of hacksaw blades, ground and polished. these cutters ends need no special shaping other than a very short, sharp tapered end to work well. The other tool that I fashion is for all the tight radiuses and loops, and I make this tool from those small screwdriver(mini-screwdrivers) you can purchase as sets in any local hardware store. They usually have a swivel head on them which I grind off, and I usually shorten the handle shank to fit well in my hand( I use a skin pad in the palm of my hand for pushing, but know it would be better if one were to fashion a good sized handle out of wood). I then grind the business end to shape slowly with a dremel tool with a shaping stone inserted, going slow so as not to burn temper and then, using same dremel tool to polish with. the cutting end for the small scrolls and curves should be no more than 1/16 to 3/32 wide and a little more than the thickness of your wire. Grind it so it goes a bit deeper than the width of your wire and taper the very end. I like to grind the thickness of the cutter at a taper(like a small wedge) to beef up it's strength, because no matter how well the tool is made, being this small and asking it to work that hard wood will over time fatigue it too failure( you will know when this can happen by the cutter starting to bend on occasion). If you feel that heat treating is in order, it is really very simple. use a small hand torch or even a lighter type torch and barely bring it to a light red and quench in a dixie cup of water. It will be brittle hard and not good for inlaying because you'll be digging out the tip from your stock in no time, so you need to draw a little hardness out by sanding it clean and warming it up to a staw or brown color and then polish it good, for if you don't the rough tooling marks will tear wood fibers going in and pulling out, rather than smoothly sliding in to leave a depression for your wire to lay in. Once your wire is in place you can take a drop of water and touch the wood and it will swell the wood around the wire nice and tight, I take an embossing gun( a very small blow dryer) and quick dry the wood so I can get on to the next piece. I hope this helps some, I know it probably opened up more questions than it answered, but I'd be glad to help anyone if I can! I've put this pic in here once before but I'll do it again,(Not to brag, but to show a little of what is possible with such simple tools and a little patients):
Best regards, Wes

[url] http://s242.photobucket.com/albums/ff92/viking-sword/Inlaid Bowie[/url]/
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Can you please show us a picture of your tools you described in your post?
Thank you,
Billk
 
Thanks Viking Sword!
I knew a blade expert would chime in sooner or later. My internet searches on wire inlay produced a lot of knife crafting sites. The Bowie is incredible! The work reminds me of some of the pieces I recently saw in the "Arms and Armor" display in the Philadelphia museum of art.
I like the idea of using the jewelers screwdrivers for blanks. This was just the kind of tip I was hoping to get. :bow: I don't like the way the hacksaw blades seem to flex a little when you tap them. Something a little stiffer works better in my opinion...I'm off to the hardware store!
 
Sorry It's taken so long to get back to this subject, I had some learning to do as far as putting this all together and getting photo's to load the way I wanted them to.
First let me say that this is the way that I have found works best for me and is not the only way.
These first few photo's are of the basic tools tha I use:
wireinlay0012.jpg

wireinlay0062.jpg

these two tools are the ones that I use to inlay 90% of all my wire. The wire by the way is fine silver rolled to 13x55 thousands.
wireinlay003.jpg

these are made from hacksaw blade stock and are ground and polished to the thickness of my wire( maybe a little thicker), they are used by pushing with my hands and guided by finger and thumb pressure, if a person wanted to tap them in they would only need to make the shanks a couple inches longer, I just like the control and feel i get this way.
wireinlay0042.jpg

this tool I use for making the wire groove in small radius's and scrolls, it is made from a mini screwdriver and the swivel top has been ground off and shortened to fit my hand. The working end has been shaped and polished with dremel attachments and the leather is used between my hand and the top of the tool for protection.
wireinlay005.jpg

this tool is used for pushing inlayed wire to staighten it out and smooth your wire shapes. It was made the same way as the last tool but has a blunt and flat polished face.
wireinlay0082.jpg

this photo show the start of inlaying a simple straight wire for basics, I push the tool in and rock it just a little deeper than the the wire will go and advance down the line overlapping a little from the last insicion. You should try to keep you insicions as straight up and down as possible, especially at the begining and end of every line.
wireinlay0092.jpg

once your groove is made you need to prep your wire by clipping the very end square and then laying it on a block of wood and scraping across it with a needle file to give the wire serrations which give the wood something to swell up around and grab on too.
wireinlay0102.jpg

start by placing the wire snug up against the end of the groove and pressing it down along it's length,you can also tap the wire in but try not to pound it all the way flush as a little raise can help you do some straightening afterwards. Clip off the other end as square as possible and press down. the next step is to take a drop of water on the end of your finger and swipe it across the inlayed wire and the wood will swell up around it, at this point I use a small blow dryer called an embossing dryer, found at most craft stores to dry the wood completly so I can go on to the next one.
wireinlay0132.jpg

In doing scrollwork the design is layed out in pencil and the main stem is done first as all other wires will taper onto it. the main body is grooved with the wide tool until the radius is such that you cannot groove without running out of your intended line, at which point you use the fine bladed tool made with the mini screwdriver. I have penciled in an arrow showing where this point is on this scroll.
wireinlay0162.jpg

In using this tool you need good light and I use my thumb of my other hand for added guidance and proper pressure. You must always keep in mind that this tool has a flat face and a tapered face and the flat face always goes absolutly straight in and on the inside of the design so as not to put undo pressure against the inside of the scroll since it's wood is no longer supported nad can break or pop out( something to always keep in mind is the direction of pressure being put on the wood to prevent breakout).
wireinlay017.jpg

When you start to put the wire in the groove dont be surprise or panicked if it's not perfect, as you can do as much straightening as you want after it's swelled in the groove: like this:
wireinlay019.jpg

remember, you can shape this wire from both sides, including stretching and compressing to make it flow into or along other wires:
wireinlay0202.jpg

This a final veiw of this sample piece, there are many more techniques to be used as well as perfecting using positive and negative pressures to make the most delicate of cuts(grooves), and I feel I still have alot to learn about this craft. The europeans of old really were masters at this!
 
Fire Mountain Gems is a big jewelry component company. They have the decency to sell silver and gold wire in a square profile, and they sell scroll saw blade in the same dimensions so that you can scratch out a trough that the wire simply presses into.
Other wise your stuck making your own, or paying through the nose for miniature carving sets.
 
Thank you very much for taking the time to show us your tools and how to use them.
Billk
 
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