Wonder-lubed Patches

[Mad Mucus]

Has anyone purchased and used these......comments?

Mucus

 

[playfarmers]

That is all I used to use, but ended up with a buildup in the barrel. It takes more than just soap and water to clean it out. I am still testing other lubes, and have yet to find the perfect one.

 

[MikeChapin]

I use Wonder Lube for hunting where I'm only going to make one or two shots in a day. When I have used it at the range it has a tendency to goo up the barrel after 4 or 4 shots. I just stick with spit at the range.

 

[roundball]

Has anyone purchased and used these......comments?

Mucus

All I've used is Natural Lube 1000 for 15 years...both as a bore lube and a patch lube...outstanding stuff...I buy tubes of NL1000 and prelubed patches in volume whenever I run across a good deal.

Part of my cleaning process with steaming hot soapy water includes a dozen strokes with a bore brush every time, as an additional step to prevent any buildup of anything what-so-ever...keep my bores in a raw, bare metal state all the time...bores are still as shiny and accurate as the day I bought them.

Note:
If NL1000 is used as a bore lube, I think it's very important to be sure to use enough...after a bore has been 100% cleaned and 100% bone dried, every square inch of the bore has to be coated/insulated from air contact...because bore butter doesn't run/migrate around like a liquid lube might...so I plaster it on lubing patches 3-4 times and run them down bore several times while the barrel is still warm from the previous hot water soak.

The biggest attraction to me is the low fouling and no need to wipe between shots...I shoot 40-50 shots of Goex 3F on Saturday mornings and unless it's an abnormally dry, low humidity winter day, I don't have to wipe between shots until I'm ready for the drive home.
:front:

 

[ryoung14]

They work just fine for me, Mucus, as does the Natural Lube 1000. But, like Roundball, I scrub out the barrel good with boiling soapy water, patches, and a bronze brush at the end of every session. I feel, at times, like I'm going overboard with this, but I never get any buildup if I do it. Once or twice I tried taking shortcuts and then I noticed the buildup.

I've found the NL1000 to be an excellent rust preventative if applied correctly. After my barrel's been thoroughly dried but while it's still too hot to handle (from the boiling water rinse), I run a couple of patches saturated with NL1000 down the bore. This liquifies the lube and lets it run into all the crevices. While the barrel's cooling off, I then wipe down the outside with the used patches.

I'm so accustomed to this now that if I found something that took less work my conscience would probably bother me.
Bob

 

[Mad Mucus]

Thanks guys,

When the time comes for me to get started, I will go with roundball's NL1000 bore lube & prelubed patch set-up, and follow the cleaning process too. Sounds like the right direction.

Mucus

 

[roundball]

I'm so accustomed to this now that if I found something that took less work my conscience would probably bother me.

I know what you mean...it does become sort of part of the 'ritual'...I'm lucky to have a garage where I keep a carpeted workbench setup, various ramrods with different caliber attachments hanging on the wall, a 5 gal bucket and a small pail, cleaning/lubing supplies, etc...flip on a little old 13" TV, bring out a cup of coffee and enjoy!
:front:

 

[mike alexandre]

What- no fridge with a few chilled refreshments-I'm not stopping off at your workshop :kid:

 

[gordy]

I used Bore Butter with the 1000 lube for several years.and like Rounball and others had no problem with build up.Right now I'm experimentig with the Dry Patch system.I still use the lube as a preservitive inside and out.The main thing is having things Squeaky Clean and DRY before applying the lube and the hotter the metal the better.I hold mine with a leather welding glove while applying.There has been a lot of negative comments about useing Bore Butter,but I still feel that as long as the cleaning and drying are done with care theres no problem. :results: :front: Oh Yeah!Ihave a fridge in the shop!

 

[roundball]

There has been a lot of negative comments about useing Bore Butter,but I still feel that as long as the cleaning and drying are done with care theres no problem.

:RO:
Three simple steps:
100% clean
100% dry
100% lubed

:redthumb:

 

[Horace]

Now for the stupid question. I use ML1000 and lubed patches and shoot only about 25 times every couple of weeks. I have not noticed any "buildup" and am not sure what to look for. Help me with this issue, please.

 

[roundball]

Now for the stupid question. I use ML1000 and lubed patches and shoot only about 25 times every couple of weeks. I have not noticed any "buildup" and am not sure what to look for. Help me with this issue, please.

I've never had any either...every now and then you hear someone claim accuracy began to suffer and said it was because of build-up...I ssume that could be true but frankly, if anyone allows anything to build-up in their bores, they're not getting everything cleaned out each and every time. Having read those posts years ago, I added a couple dozen brush strokes to my cleaning regimen and have never had that problem.

Could just be the occasional individual who thought he was getting the bore clean but actually wasn't...the biggest misleading conclusion you can draw is to run a patch down and stop cleaning when it come back out white...no way a simple patch on a round jag can possibly 100% clean down into all those 90* square corners of the lands & grooves...takes a brush to do that.

Best test is to clean with patches only until they're white, then scrub the bore real good with a brush and repatch...you'll be shocked at what else comes out.

IMO, with ML's, we really need to think in terms of "100%" for each step...
100% clean
100% dry
100% lubed

:m2c:

 

[big bore 75]

I use bore butter, I have nl 1000 but not much of it it and bore butter smell the same I'll bet they use the same ingrediants, the only time I have ever had a problem was when I ran a 40 grain blank charge down the bore, then I had problems with hard loading, but if you use bore butter or nl1000, after cleaning and drop your main charge down and lube with it I don't have any build up's, and cleaning is a lot easier and fast, I use it almost exclusively, except in my custom fayetteville I use msmlube to lube my mini balls , but use the borebuter to, preserve the barrel, seems to make loading eaiser and keeps fowling down :m2c:.
bb75

 

[roundball]

I use bore butter, I have nl 1000 but not much of it it and bore butter smell the same I'll bet they use the same ingrediants, the only time I have ever had a problem was when I ran a 40 grain blank charge down the bore, then I had problems with hard loading, but if you use bore butter or nl1000, after cleaning and drop your main charge down and lube with it I don't have any build up's, and cleaning is a lot easier and fast, I use it almost exclusively, except in my custom fayetteville I use msmlube to lube my mini balls , but use the borebuter to, preserve the barrel, seems to make loading eaiser and keeps fowling down :m2c:.
bb75

Yeah, the term 'bore butter' sems to be sort of a generic one...Wonderlube 1000 borebutter is made and marketed under the OcYoke label...they also made it for TC who markets it as TC Natural Lube 1000 bore butter...same for Traditions, CVA, Remington, etc.

All the same stuff was made by OxYoke, put into tubes, jars, patches, wonderwads, etc...and they were recently bought out by RMC who is continuing the same product line.

 

[vermontfreedom]

I use bore butter or ox-yoke as my primary patch lube and used to use it to protect my bore after cleaning. My .54-cal barrel has about 500-600 rounds through it, but it's only 1 year old. I used to use hot (never boiling) soapy water. Then I stopped using soap. Now I just use luke-warm or cool water, a bore brush (sometimes copper, sometimes mylon, and sometimes wrapped with a patch itself) to clean the bore, followed by LOTS of dry patches. After most of the water is out, I use Lehigh Valley lube to loosen up any residual fouling and then A LOT more dry patches. I was told by the guy who made my gun that too-hot water will loosen/extract the material that has collected in the pores in the metal, better known as "seasoning" and could lead to inaccuracy. Same potential accuracy problems but with exact opposite symptoms as build-up. I've never noticed buildup of any kind, but--only recently--have noticed a small amount of rust in the bore 2-3 weeks after this cleaning. I should note I've taken to using a hair dryer to blow-dry the bore and I leave the barrel in my gun cabinet over a Golden Rod. I never used any petroleum-based solvents to clean or protect the barrel until I started noticing this rust, which has me terrified that I'll ruin my bore condition. So I started using a light coat (one patch, run a few times down bore) of Birchwood-Casey Sheath Rust Preventative after all is clean and dry. I've heard not to use petroleum-based solvents for the same reasons to not use hot water. Anyone think I'm being stupid for using just cold water or using petroleum-based rust prevent?

 

[roundball]

I use bore butter or ox-yoke as my primary patch lube and used to use it to protect my bore after cleaning. My .54-cal barrel has about 500-600 rounds through it, but it's only 1 year old. I used to use hot (never boiling) soapy water. Then I stopped using soap. Now I just use luke-warm or cool water, a bore brush (sometimes copper, sometimes mylon, and sometimes wrapped with a patch itself) to clean the bore, followed by LOTS of dry patches. After most of the water is out, I use Lehigh Valley lube to loosen up any residual fouling and then A LOT more dry patches. I was told by the guy who made my gun that too-hot water will loosen/extract the material that has collected in the pores in the metal, better known as "seasoning" and could lead to inaccuracy. Same potential accuracy problems but with exact opposite symptoms as build-up. I've never noticed buildup of any kind, but--only recently--have noticed a small amount of rust in the bore 2-3 weeks after this cleaning. I should note I've taken to using a hair dryer to blow-dry the bore and I leave the barrel in my gun cabinet over a Golden Rod. I never used any petroleum-based solvents to clean or protect the barrel until I started noticing this rust, which has me terrified that I'll ruin my bore condition. So I started using a light coat (one patch, run a few times down bore) of Birchwood-Casey Sheath Rust Preventative after all is clean and dry. I've heard not to use petroleum-based solvents for the same reasons to not use hot water. Anyone think I'm being stupid for using just cold water or using petroleum-based rust prevent?

I don't think anybody is crazy about anything they do or use...we all sort of fall into routines that work and there surely are several different ways.

I use steaming hot water more to get the barrel heated up real hot to aid in final drying, than getting the fouling out...and with my rifles having hooked breech barrels, it's simple to stand the barrel in a huge 5 gallon bucket for 15 minutes, gets so hot you can hardly handle it.

That does require an immediate dry patching to prevent flash rust, then I let it lay for 5 minutes to let the residual heat work it's magic before plastering the be-jeepers out of it with natural lube.

Basically, there's only two ways a bore can rust:
1) If 100% of the moisture was not dried out of it to begin with, it'll rust;
2) Or, if it was dried properly, but every square inch of bore surface doesn't remain coated/insulated from the air which has moisture in it, it'll rust;

IMO, I've come to think that the most common problem that folks may encounter using borebutter as a bore lube, is simply not using enough of it...I mean I plaster it on lube patches 3-4 time, over and over up and down the bore so there's no way any bare spots are left...heavily gooped in there...had one rifle lay in it's case for four years, took it our, dry patched the bore, some yellow NL1000 came out on the patch and the bore was still perfect.

So far, so good