Working on a Wheellock

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Hi,
Thats the original lock, however the reproduction would have a similar appearance if burnished and hardened correctly.
This is one thing we have noticed whilst in the USA, most repro locks we see are rarely finished to that sort of level, we assume that is because practical services from the item are a preference to that of authenticity, but why not have both?
We tried to market an early trade lock with a finish pertaining to that in the photo, however the production cost was extreme due to the level of finishing, but that is no reason why the builder can take up that particular task.
Kevin
 
To obtain that quality of finish, it would require a specialize set of polishing stones, in order to get within each nook and carnny. Costly for both stones and time invested in labor.

CP
 
You are quite right, it would be extremely labour intensive, also I would imagine difficult to keep up with the orders, especially should it be the volumes that the likes of Jim Chambers pushes through.

Kevin
 
I was driving home from work today going now xmas and new years is over ill have to start again on the lock. To find in the letter box the chain parts and a set of great pics and sheets showing the bits etc in place...

Thanks Kevin it has helped a great deal.

Owen
 
a scan of one of the sheets sent.
wheellockparts1.jpg
 
:thumbsup:
WWWWWO were did you find this? And if I maybe so bold wht was the cost, or at least the place can find th price list?
Thanks and my best regards a loyalist Dawg
 
Hi Owen
just got my kit from Blackley. Do you have any more photos of the lock you could post?

Like to double check all those fussy alignments. How did you do the chain riveting" and what did you use for the spring under the sear lever?

tell all
 
I only recived my chain bit this week so no idea yet on how to pin them :) have a few ideas but like to see what I can do. For that spring I was hoping to shape and re-temper a thick saw blade of some sort .... any ideas would be good.

Now for a question do people harden the lock plate etc? or just case harden them.

Owen
 
I think it is case hardened like the other parts. I got a compound from track of the wolf that seems simple to use for case hardening.

I note your pic of the lock has the pan cover spring mounted forward to rear rather than the other way around as on the instructions. A variation?

A few general notes on my findings so far on my pistol project

I tried the Rifle Shoppe and had nothing but a continuous string of almost have the parts ready (went on for six months) with continual stories about next week. Ordered a catalog (their web site is still 2003)was told a week or two and a year later still nothing. Have heard 3-4 year horror stories of people who ordered things that were not in stock.

You can get a set of castings for a Wheelock from Blackley and sons in England. High quality and very good service. They have recently upgraded their kit with additional parts and instructions. Very nice people to deal with. Service was very prompt other than a customs hassle. The cost of the lock will be about half the cost of the gun.

As for the other parts barrels etc can all be got from Track of the Wolf. big selection, high quality, great service. Have them install the breech plug for you, it is VERY difficult to get right unless you have machinist tools or are very skilled.

Not the simplest project since it is more than bolt together and finish. Lock requires final fitting (fussy but a file and careful does the trick) and hardening (not difficult) and spring tempering (more difficult but not impossible) Precise drilling (locations clear on casting) and tapping holes (is fiddly by not too difficult if tacked systematically). Trigger need to be fabricated but not too challenging. Blackley will sell you individual parts if you mess one up!

wood parts can be make from a block of hardwood. download a pic of the gun you want, print, use a zerox to adjust size to your lock plate and you have a pattern. I'm going to use purpleheart which is strong light attractive and cheap also available locally.

recommend the book Recreating the American Longrifle by Buchele )(Track has it) Very good work thru of what is involved. Strongly recommend you get the book and read carefully FIRST to see what you are getting involved in.

Hope this is of some use to people
 
on the final finish and polishing question. I'll be trying a dremel tool with the cloth buffing wheel and polishing compound. Should be able to reach most of the contours. Will let you know if or how it works out.
 
On the pan spring nope i have it laying the wrong way :) what happens when you dont have plans or pics to go by ... fixed that now

Owen
 
More work hase been done :) ... need to finish the screws and harden the springs final pollish and use (i hope)

Owen

wheellock2.jpg


wheellock1.jpg
 
The Lauber book recommends using a 'soft grade of band steel' for the lock plate and does not discuss hardening it, only annealing it to make it easy to work. The other parts of the lockplate (brackets for sears/mainspring) are in orginals copper-brazed to the plate, and this would wipe out hardening. I have also seen on one of the internet sites a maker saying he found his wheel-lock worked better with the plate un-hardened.

Can't say where though - one of the people on this site I think.
 
It has been a long time comming.

It spins, the springs work, The chain bends and holds together, The dog holds the pyrite hard to the wheel. No sparks :( Help .... I have tryed to heat and quench twice now. Both times to non magnetic and a oil quench. Did the same for the springs. Im worried about over heating (if you can) will damage the wheel. Any ideas?

Thanks
Owen.
 

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