Working on first horn

[dallas10c]

Well, I finally got around to working on my first horn that I bought last year at Dixons. I am in the process of doing a little scrim work on it to try and dress it up a bit. Doing this I really found out that maybe the eye doctor was right...it's about time for bifocals. The close in work is killing me. Here is a pic of my first attempt. I am going to clean it up some more now that I can see the lines better after rubbing some india ink into what I already have done.

I have 1 question for the experienced horners out there...what type of stain/finish do you use once you are done to seal the whole job up and give it a nice aged patina? Also doing lettering is a real PITA...what kind of tool makes it easier? I have tried exacto knives and a small old scribe sharpened to a point.

 

[willpond]

Nice looking horn! Bifocals sure help me, I have to move my rear sight out further on my rifle barrel! I used a sharp throwing dart on my horn, made my hand hurt but was fun to do.

 

[dallas10c]

Thanks..I'll give the old thing a try. I think I have some old ones around here someplace.

 

[boar]

One member on here did it by buying a cheap penknife and breaking the blade off and using the stub. Dilly

 

[blacksmithman64]

If yer eyes is buggin ya- I got some cheap ol' 3+ reading glasses from the local wallyworld and they help a lot.Better than one of them magnifiers you wear on yer head!(but I do use it sometimes!)
forget the darts and needles and busted knives, quality work takes quality tools- go to coulter precision,they're on fleabay and you might be able to google 'em. they make scrimshaw scribers that are unbelievable, they're cheap and well worth the money.If this is your first attempt, good job! You got the sand to be a horn scratcher! :thumbsup: Far as stain and patina,other forums on here get into that in detail try the craftsman forum. Rit dye, walnut hulls, onion skins,vinegar and iron filings,etc...

 

[smo]

Looks good Recon, I've heard that a product called "Old Bones" sold by Dixie Gun Works gives a nice old lookin' patina on a horn. :thumbsup:

 

[blacksmithman64]

Don't want to bust yer bubble, but "old bones" is diluted potassium permanganate. The junk ain't no way permanent.I have used potperm full strength and it still rubs off. I used to sell this stuff. My advise is stay away from it and go with the RIT dye method.

 

[AeroncaTAL]

Nice work there. I'd listen to Stumblin Wolf's advise on scratchers. His scrimshaw is first rate. Me, I use a xacto blade but am looking to try the scribers he talks about. For finishing the horn I use RIT dye. They got a bunch of colors to choose from. I've tried everything from brown to yellow to red. What I've settled on now is dark brown with a tough of black for the throat and neck of my F&I horns, and tan for the body. It gives a nice old appearance to the horn.
Scott

 

[dallas10c]

Thanks to all for the info on scribers and the RIT dye. I think my wife might actually have some around from a die job she had to do on some clothes for my daughter.

As for the scratching...it is kind of relaxing to do. Will be even better after I get a set of wallyworld magnifiers and a proper scriber.

I got the idea for the map from a 1800 county map I found in a the local town archives.

Thanks again to all, I'll post a pic when I get done.

 

[dallas10c]

OK...before I keep going on this horn, I read somewhere else that india ink will wear off and fade because it's veggie based. So...Stumblin Wolf or other experienced horners, what kind of ink should I be using so it will last a while?

thanks in advance....

 

[Freedom]

For a scratcher...My fovorite tool for rivers and letters is one of those real small hobby files that end in a sharp point. The round ones and triangle work well. I have also found application for the flat pionted file.

These usually come in a set and can be found very cheap. The file steel just seems to cut better than some of the steel that I have tried.

For coloring horn I have used iodine "stronger"(veterinarian stuff)and this stuff will leave a yellowed finish that seems to last and penitrate quite well. I tried Rit but it didn't last quite as long as the iodine. Altough I have never soaked a horn...I just wipe on the surface. Soaking in Rit or iodine may give a more perminant antique finish...Might just ruin the horn :haha:

 

[omarick1948]

Buy a good quality India ink at an art supply store and you won't have a fading problem. I suspect some of the rumors about fading comes from items exposed to direct sun light for long periods of time!...All dyed horns will do the same over long periods of extended direct sun light.

Rick

 

[dallas10c]

OK..thanks. I have been using my step-sons india ink. He is going to school for graphic arts and his teachers were very specific about which brands they had to use for good results.

 

[blacksmithman64]

I use higgins WATERPROOF india ink, they make a non waterproof type too, so pay attention to the labeling! Speedball makes good ink but its unavailable where I'm at. Ink from cheap ballpoint pens is good for polychroming, just take the tube out, pull off the ball point with some pliers and gently blow the ink out into a small cup.I use a q-tip to apply the ink and then use 0000 steel wool to buff off the excess. I've never had a problem with fading ink or the rit dye.But like Horner75 said, you don't want to leave them hanging in the sun.Also if you have a heat gun, melt some beeswax on the horn and rub it in good.Way better than automotive or furniture wax and it won't leave white deposits in your scratches :thumbsup:

 

[David Shaw]

You definitely want to use waterproof india ink for the scrim. As for dye I used fiebings leather dye medium brown. I have posted some horns in the pic section. Stumblin Wolf is right about the potassium permanganate, it dosen't last.

 

[dallas10c]

Thanks to all, the india ink I have is waterproof, so I'll be ok. Getting some RIT dye tomorrow. Ran to a bunch of stores today and totally forgot it until we were pulling into the driveway. :youcrazy:

 

[AeroncaTAL]

Waterproof India ink is what I use and have not had a problem with it. I melt beeswax on all my horns and buff it to a nice polish. When dyeing the horn, I dissolve the RIT in hot water (use an asparagus cooker) on a hot plate. I let the horn sit in the dye for 30 - 45 minutes. You want the RIT to be in hot water, the dye chemicaly binds with the horn fibers. I can't imagine that wiping the dye on the horn will do much. Good luck.
Scott

 

[Freedom]

When dyeing the horn, I dissolve the RIT in hot water (use an asparagus cooker) on a hot plate. I let the horn sit in the dye for 30 - 45 minutes. You want the RIT to be in hot water, the dye chemicaly binds with the horn fibers. I can't imagine that wiping the dye on the horn will do much. Good luck.
Scott

Thank you for this info :hatsoff: ...I was always afraid to soak my horns in the dye...let alone put it in hot dye... FWIW yeah wiping it on does very little :redface:

 

[blacksmithman64]

One thing you want to do with the plug is make sure you have at least 6 pegs in it and I epoxy mine into place; plug and all. The hot dye bath will do funny things to it, especially with soft woods such as pine or poplar. A neat finish I've been playing with is painting the plug with old time colors, dyeing it,then hitting it with some 150 sandpaper here and there to expose the woodgrain and then wiping it and the horn with dark woodstain, Gives a nice antique appearance.The horn I posted in photos was done this way using hunter green paint. :thumbsup:

 

[AeroncaTAL]

I tried milk paint on one of my horns. It did give it an interesting finish. A lot of original horns were painted (and not just the butt). An original Lake George F&I horn I saw once still had flecks of green milk paint on the butt...
Scott