Working on first horn

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OK....just pulled the horn out of a hot RIT dye bath after 45 minutes. Color looks real nice. Besides beeswax heated and melted, what othe good ways are there to seal the horn?

Thanks,
Bob
 
I have seen horns finished with both lacquers, and varnishes, both natural, and the synthetics. Coating the horns after staining and Scrimshaw work with a good wax is also common. You may not like the look of some of the lacquer finishes( too shiney) and some of the varnishes( same). The varnishes can be toned down using rottenstone to polish them down to a matte finish. I don't know if the lacquers can also be toned down. I have never tried to do with lacquer.
 
I use Johnson's paste wax,rubbed in with a soft cloth,til the horn is warm.then she ready to go.
Before I do that I rub a smooth piece of bone,antler,all over the horn,specially over the scrim,this takes the edges off,so that you can't hardly feel the scrim,doesn't effect the picture.this also hardens the surface,slightly,offering a bit more protection.
 
I wanted to avoid varnish type finishes, including laquers if at all possible. That is why I asked, I think the beeswax would be good, but I don't know where I would get it around here.
 
For those that use the beeswax, how do you apply it? Rub a large piece on the horn then warm it with a blow dryer and rub it in?

Sorry for all the questions.
 
Don't worry about the questions. That's how you learn. Try a local honey supplier for beeswax. You can also get it at a crafts store (Craft Warehouse, Michaels, etc). I mostly rub the wax on the horn, then heat it with a hair dryer or heat gun to melt it. Buff it with a soft cloth. I seem to always have slight gaps between the horn and butt plug. The bees wax will fill those gaps well and seal the horn airtight. This should help keep moisture out.
Scott
 
You were asking how to prevent stained areas of the horn from fading, or bleeding in wet weather. The use of a varnish protects the color from UV light. And, varnish will seal the horn, so that rain water or fog, or any other water from any other source will not cause the color of your dye job to bleed. Wax also works, but its the putting on the wax, making sure you get it everywhere that is needed that becomes a headache.
 
you can find beeswax at Cumberland trail trade company and I believe turkey foot trade company has it. Or you can use a 100% beeswax candle! I use a heat gun to warm up the wax and then streak it all over the horn and plug.Then heat the horn and wipe with a paper towel until its no longer tacky.Repeat, then buff with a piece of flannel or old sweatshirt. Like 41Aero said, it works great for filling in that crack between the horn and plug!
 
Just don't leave that wax covered horn in direct sunlight on a warm day, or in a closed car. The wax will melt, and leave a mess. And, you need to consider refreshing the wax finish periodically. It is very soft, and will rub off just by contact with your hand.
 
Thanks for all the responses. I think I'll try some beeswax tonight. I have to go to WallyWorld and there is a craft supply place next door. I think it's a AC Moore. I'll take pics when I get done with the project. Thanks for all the help
 
:rotf:
Stumblin Wolf said:
:confused:
I don't mean CAKE it on!
:rotf:
:grin: YOU DON'T ???? ah shucks I've been doing it all wrong then :wink: ........ :rotf:
 
I was thinking about that " filling in the gap " at the junction of the plug and horn suggestion that several people made here. Not the surface that is finished with the beeswax. :rotf: :thumbsup:
 
The gap I fill with beeswax is not that great. I haven't had any problems with any wax melting off of the horn. IMHO,it is a good way to seal the horn.
Scott
 
Recon,

Just my 2 cents worth ... When I apply the beeswax I use a candle and drip the wax on the horn. then using the same candle I apply the flame to the now cooled wax drops on the horn and remelt them. What this does is also applies soot from the candle onto the horn. While the horn is still warm, hand rub the wax into the horn and the wood plug as well. Another thing I do is make sure there is plenty of wax dripped at the seam of the plug and horn. then I apply the heat to the outside edge of the horn. Capillary action draws the hot wax into any gap that might exist between the horn and the wood. Seals it up tight as a drum.

Smokeydays
 
41Aeronca said:
Well, first because that was what was told to me, and second, milk paint was the traditional, common pait at that time. I suppose that it could have been some other type of paint, but I have no reason to doubt it.
http://www.milkpaint.com/about_history.html

Scott

oops... dropped the ball on this... :redface:

A lot of academics say milk paint wasn't that common in the U.S. before 1800. Most paint was the standard linseed oil, turps and pigment.

The reason I'm interested is you never know on antiques WHEN the paint was put on. In the middle of the 19th century, a lot of 18th century furniture was painted over with indigo or prussian blue... called "old blue paint." It actually makes furniture more valuable.

There is a variant... a blue-green, that shows up on Canadian powder horns from the same era (at least the paint is the same era).

Another paint era is just after WWII, when a lot of aluminum paint was surplussed. You see all kinds of farm stuff painted silver, including old powder horns. :shocked2:

Yup I've seen several, and they made me wanna :barf:
 
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Boy that would make you wanna mess yer self to see some guy carrying one of them silver painted things :wink:
 

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