Working Up A Load - Lyman GPR

[PALongbow]

All,

As mentioned earlier in one of my posts I am a newbie at flintlocks. I did some shooting this past week to understand the loading basics and tried to get use to the rifle iteslf. Did alright shooting off hand.

My next step is to find out what shoots best in my Lyman Great Plains 54. cal. I plan on shooting from a bench. Any suggestions on how I should work up the right load for this rifle. I am currently using 2F Goex black powder and 4F for priming.

Ron

 

[CoyoteJoe]

Depends on what you want to do with your rifle. You'll probably want a hunting load but I wouldn't jump right in with 80-100 grain loads.
Light loads have several advantages. You save on powder, your barrel fouls less and you can get a lot of time with your new rifle without developing a flinch from recoil as will happen in a long session of heavy loads.
I like to start with the lightest load I consider useful, say 50 grains in a .54 caliber. Fire a 5 shot group (3 shots is not a group at all), record the results. Sticking with the light powder charge try a thicker or thinner patch. Try another lube. Change only one thing at a time. You absolutely need to keep notes of ball size, powder charge and type, patch thickness, patch lube, and group size.
Staying with the best ball and patch combo now increase the powder charge.
Step up 10 grains and fire another five shot group. Work up in 10 grain steps to your max load.
Review your notes. You may find that 50 and 60 grains both shot very well, so try 55 grains, still keeping everything else the same as your best results so far.
To find the absolute BEST load for your rifle (rifles are all different) will require a lot of shooting but that is the fun of it and by the time you've settled on a load you will really know your rifle. "IF" you've kept good notes. :grin:

 

[PALongbow]

At what distance should I use to do this type of load testing... 25-50 yards???

Ron

 

[CoyoteJoe]

I consider muzzleloaders to be REAL rifles and expect them to be accurate at 100 yards. But, you can save a lot of time and walking by doing your initial shooting at 25 to get it on the paper, then move out to 50 for the bulk of your testing.
At 25, even a smoothbore will put all it's shots into one hole and there is no use going to 100 untill you're getting consistent groups at 50.

 

[netoleon]

I've got a recently acquired GPR and the scuttlebutt is that most ( if not all ) GPRs shoot low out of the box. It was certainly true for mine, your mileage may vary.

Mssr. Coyote has made some essential points. I would add that unless you register your rifle first; with a fixed load, some form of support (bench, bipod, etc.), and a base sight adjustment (if using the Lyman adjustable rear); you will likely get poor results in your load development. Regardless of what type of shooting you do - you need a fixed, known point of reference as to where the gun shoots. If you are an experienced shooter you already know this, so pardon me.

Here's my version of the BP Sight-in method, FYI - set a load for testing that is an average target load (not maxed, but not real skimpy either), pick your patch and ball based on a known, good recommendation (check the booklet that came with the gun - Hey, nobody reads those !), then start shooting groups from a rest - same load, same distance, same "sight picture". The data you get will inform your sight adjustment decisions. Then you adjust, and do it again. If you try to sight-in using varied powder loads, or changing patch sizes, you'll never know which variable is influencing your results. I've made those mistakes and it's frustrating. 50 yards is a good base distance, but...there are valid reasons for using 100' as well. For an excellent evaluation of that topic see Bob Spencer's work at[url] http://members.aye.net/~bspen/index.html.[/url]

Once you've got your sights "fixed", then the fun can really begin. Good luck and enjoy.

 

[PALongbow]

Any recommendations on load data that you feel really works with the Lyman GPR 54 cal?

This is what I have on hand to test with (Powder, round ball, patches). Should I add anything else?

Goex 2F & 4F powder
Hornady .535 round ball
Pillow ticking from Walmart - .016
Ox Yoke pre lubed patches - .010
Butches Bore Shine for black powder (cleaning)
Bore Butter for lubing pillow ticking patches

 

[Stumpkiller]

 

[netoleon]

I can't comp exactly to your specs, mostly because I'm using 3F for everything. I think you got some good ideas already on test loads.

What other kit do you need ? Adjustable powder measure ? Rod accessories for loading/cleaning/utility ? The biggest asset you can have, and the one you need in the largest quantity - is patience. This ain't no "2 hours of range time and I'll have it all doped out" deal. You're going to need many (I'll say 10+) identically loaded rounds on target within your personal standard deviation of accuracy to verify your data on every change you make. The good news is - it's a great incentive to get out and shoot more !

 

[PALongbow]

Thanks for the information guys. Keep the recommedations coming. I think a box of .530 round balls need to be added to the arsenal.

Stumpkiller,

You make good points about the barrel break in period. I think that advice is well taken. I'll work on getting the sights set for 50 yards so when the barrel starts to break in I can then work on grouping & accuracy.

BTW are you a traditional bowhunter by any chance? We do alot of stump killing with our stickbows and arrows down here in PA. Nothing better than roving through the woods shooting dead stumps with steel blunts and wood arrows.

Ron

 

[Stumpkiller]

BTW are you a traditional bowhunter by any chance? We do alot of stump killing with our stickbows and arrows down here in PA. Nothing better than roving through the woods shooting dead stumps with steel blunts and wood arrows.

No tin arrows or training wheels for this child. My camp name "Stumpkiller" was given me for my love of using them for roving targets. :thumbsup:

 

:applause: Amen Pierre, I have preached this for years,good show.

 

[PALongbow]

Stumpkiller,

We may have to go stump shooting sometime. We get a bunch of guys together and do a lot of stump shooting through out the year. I like those pictures.

Ron

 

[MikeChapin]

What I generally do with a new rifle is first bench it at 25 yard to make sure it's on the paper. I then start low on the powder charge - 50 grains of 3F or maybe 60 of 2F. Work your way up in 5 grain increments and see where it tightens up at. If you are punching one hole at 25 yards, go out to 50.

Once I get the powder charge tightened up, I then start messing with the patching. This is usually more dramatic than the powder component. I usually find that a 2-3" 50 yard group will go to one hole when you find the right patching.

I'm a minimalist as far as load goes. I go for the lightest load that will give the best groups and will use that at 25 and 50 yards. I will then take it out to 100 yard and up the load until it prints on the point of aim. A 1 in 66" barrel is generally pretty forgiving when you up the load and will usually still give 2-3" at 100 yards.

My Sante Fe uses 50 gr at 25 and 50 yards and 70 grains at 100. This is using a .515 ball with .022 cotton duck. My 58 uses 70 grains at 25 and 50 yards and 80 grains at 100. This is using a .562 with .030 denim.

I use my 100 yard loads for hunting.

 

[PALongbow]

The goal is that I really want to get to one hunting/range load if possible. Best of both worlds I suppose. I reload hundgun and rifle ammunition and I find something that works really well by testing and just stick with it. I don't normally dink around too much after I find a really accurate load for the gun. Once I find a really good load I practice on conistency and my shooting ability from the bench, offhand, kneeling, etc.

Ron

 

[Russianblood]

I was just out to the 25yd range getting my GPR .54 rifle's load worked up and sighted in. I started with 60gr GOEX 3f and worked up to 80gr and ended up settling on 70gr GOEX 3f and .530 RB with a .54 dry felt over powder wad and a .015 wonderlubed patch.

Now I'm going to start experimenting with different patching and over powder material and start working my way up to the 100yd range.

Remember, getting there is half the fun! :grin:

 

[PALongbow]

Looks like you have something good there. I am going to try the .530 Hornady round ball and .015 patches. Right now I only have .010 pre-lubed Ox-Yoke patches with the .535 Hornady balls.

Ron

 

[PALongbow]

I got some Hornady .530 round balls today and some pre-lubed Traditions .015 patches. Ready to test but do have a question about the pillow ticking patches. I measured my pillow ticking patches with a micrometer and they measure .016. I cut out my own square pillow ticking patches and wonder is there a way that I should lube them. I do have the TC Bore Butter. Can I melt the bore butter and dip the patches in the lube to create a pre-lubed patch or would I be better off just smearing the bore butter on the patch before taking a shot while at the range?

Ron

 

[Russianblood]

You could melt some bore butter down and "pre-lube" your patches. It would work better than just rubbing it on a dry patch.

 

[PALongbow]

Just melt the BB into a bowel and dunk the patches????

Ron