Working with boiled linseed oil

[srspicer]

Hello All,

I did a search so as not to be redundant, but could not find anything.

Anywho, I am finishing my first rifle, TOW maple stock, rough shaped, pre- inlet for barrel & R.rod.

I started replying in another thread about the best ways to stain & finish the stock. I don't want to high-jack that one as it was not topic specific.

I did order the aqua-fortis as recommended by the experienced members here, along with getting some ammonia to neutralize it. I also purchased boiled linseed oil to finish the stock, also as recommended.

I was nervous about the A-F as it was not what I expected, but as I added the B.L. oil, I started to see the awesome results.

My main question is, now that the oil is starting to leave a nice shine as it is building up, what kind of cloth should I use to 'polish' the surface once the oil is dry, or should I go over the surface with 0000 steel wool? I am on my fourth coat now and I'm loving the look! There are some areas where there is some lint from applying the oil and I want to remove that without removing the oil.

Thanks in advance for any help!! :hatsoff:

( picks soon )

Tripp

 

[Vaino]

In 1977 I completed my first long rifle and lovingly applied numerous coats of hardware store BLO...until the appearance was just beautiful.

Went deer hunting 6 mos later, sat in the rain and the hardware store BLO became a gooey mess which I wiped off w/ my red hankie until down to bare wood.

Never used it again and chastised myself for even using it in the first place. W/ all the excellent stock finishes available, hardware store BLO shouldn't even be considered.

But....do what you will and good luck if you're hunting in the rain......Fred

 

[PeteDavis]

You really want to avoid putting on too much, too fast.

Once a day for a week. Once a week for a month. Once a month for a year. Once a year for the rest of your life.

Oil soaked rags will catch fire.

PD

 

[alex efremenko]

What Fred said, there are many things better than plain BLO

 

[dave_person]

HI Tripp,
First, Fred is correct about BLO as a finish by itself. It is not very water resistant and it takes months to fully cure if ever. However, now that you are already using it I'll make a few suggestions. After the oil starts to pool on the surface of the wood rather than soaking in, you should apply it by dabbing the wood with a few drops and rubbing with your hand rather than using a rag. Lint drying in the finish will not be an issue if you do that. I suggest that you wipe the stock down with mineral spirits to clean off the lint and dust, and then apply oil with your hand. However, I also suggest you mix the oil 25% BLO, 25% polyurethane varnish, and 50% turps or mineral spirits. Hand rub in that mixture to get the same mellow look you are seeking but the finish will be much more durable and water resistant, and will dry much faster. That recipe and another similar one substituting tung oil for linseed, is what I used for many years. Now I just use straight polymerized tung oil.

dave

 

[srspicer]

Thanks for the input.

I have been applying with a cloth but rubbing in with my hands. I have been applying one coat every 5 days, or once dry. Fourth coat in place and looks nice. Just have to get the lint off of the surface.

I'll make the last coat the 25% formula you suggest Dave, sounds perfect.

 

[Capt. Jas.]

Are you using hardware type "boiled" linseed oil?

 

[srspicer]

Yes Capt., from Lowes.

 

[srspicer]

So Dave,

Could the polymerized tongue oil go over the BLO that is already on the stock?

And does the PTO give the same kind of finish as the formula you posted?

Thanks!

 

[dave_person]

Hi Tripp,
PTO can go over linseed oil or any other finish that is thinned with mineral spirits or turpentine. It can produce a low sheen in the wood oil finish, or a satin sheen BLO look, or a built up and polished glossy look. The photos below show 3 guns finished with Sutherland-Welles polymerized tung oil. However, you need to make sure you get the right stuff. Formby's and Minwax tung oil finishes are not PTO and pure tung oil will dry as slowly as linseed oil. PTO is pure tung oil that is heat treated and to which a small amount of solvents are added that speed up drying immensely. In your case, I would just finish up the gun with the mix I mentioned. It will give you the same look and protection as PTO.

dave

 

[MSW]

what that fella said ... he's plenty smart, and you should heed his advice.

 

[srspicer]

Consider the advice heeded!

I will purchase some polyurethane varnish and create the
25% BLO, 25% polyurethane varnish, and 50% mineral spirits mix suggested.

Looking forward to applying this. I will do a small spot where some of the brass will cover incase there is an unexpected reaction.

Thanks again!!

 

[dave_person]

Hi Tripp,
That is a good plan. Just get one of those really small cans of polyurethane. The mineral spirits thin it so you can hand rub it in. I found without the thinner, it dried so quickly that it started to get tacky before I finished rubbing.

dave

 

[Billnpatti]

Tripp, you may not like what I am going to say but I want to share it for your consideration. If I were you, I'd use some mineral spirits to completely remove the BLO from your stock. It may look nice at the moment but it will not stay that way. It is too sensitive to moisture and that's includes sweaty hands. The finish that has become my go to finish for gun stocks is Minwax clear satin Wipe On Poly straight from the can applied in many very light coats rubbed in with the finger tips, no rags. One coat a day for 5 to 10 days. Lightly buff with 4-0 steel wool between coats and completely remove all traces of dust before applying the next coat. The let it cure for a week or two before assembling your rifle. It gives you an absolutely beautiful finish that is extremely durable. Once the finish has completely cured, you can enhance the sheen to a gorgeous satin luster by using a Birchwood Casey product called Stock Sheen. You won't find a more beautiful and durable finish.

 

[dave_person]

Hi Bill,
The addition of polyurethane to the BLO resolves that problem. It essentially makes the BLO into a linseed-oil varnish. I agree 100% with you about BLO alone and because it takes so long to cure, if ever, most guys never really give it enough time to really dry (months) before using the gun. That is also why the old timers usually mixed the oil with a copal resin to make an oil-varnish that was water and wear resistant. I have a translated German manuscript from about 1200 AD describing making linseed oil-varnish. Believe it or not, many of the early advances in finishes came from painters wanting to protect their fragile work rather than woodworkers. Anyway, I developed the mix I mentioned to Tripp when I lived in SE Alaska. Getting polymerized tung oil shipped to Ketchikan was very expensive so I devised a good alternative. My linseed oil, polyurethane, and mineral spirits finish worked very well in the extremely rainy (160 inches per year) environment. Many of my rifles were also exposed to sea spray by their owners.

dave

 

[Billnpatti]

Hi Bill,
The addition of polyurethane to the BLO resolves that problem. It essentially makes the BLO into a linseed-oil varnish. I agree 100% with you about BLO alone and because it takes so long to cure, if ever, most guys never really give it enough time to really dry (months) before using the gun. That is also why the old timers usually mixed the oil with a copal resin to make an oil-varnish that was water and wear resistant. I have a translated German manuscript from about 1200 AD describing making linseed oil-varnish. Believe it or not, many of the early advances in finishes came from painters wanting to protect their fragile work rather than woodworkers. Anyway, I developed the mix I mentioned to Tripp when I lived in SE Alaska. Getting polymerized tung oil shipped to Ketchikan was very expensive so I devised a good alternative. My linseed oil, polyurethane, and mineral spirits finish worked very well in the extremely rainy (160 inches per year) environment. Many of my rifles were also exposed to sea spray by their owners.
dave

Dave, I have never tried your mixture but, with the exception of the BLO content, it sounds very much like a home made equivalent of the Wipe On Poly that I use. Because of its urethane varnish content, I am sure it is quite durable in the harsh environments in which your rifles have been used. I have made a mixture of urethane varnish cut 50/50 with mineral spirits as a stock varnish as well as using it on furniture that I have made. It is easy to apply and is quite durable. I don't know what BLO brings to the table, so to speak, but I think the secret to any good stock finish today is the use of some kind of polyurethane varnish mix that can be applied by hand in very thin coats. Properly done, it will be visually indistinguishable from the finish on grandpappy's old rifle. :thumbsup:

 

[PeteDavis]

I found a plane crash once on Deer Mtn!
You guys are reinventing Danish Oil. Penetrating oil, that's what the BLO brings, solvent to lighten it and a hardener(varnish).

Probably the best compromise out there. If it builds up too much shine you can de-fang it with some rottenstone.

Good discussion!

PD

 

[Billnpatti]

I found a plane crash once on Deer Mtn!

Pete, I'm trying to tie this in to the discussion but I think I am missing something. Is there a connection or was it just a side comment?

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
Pete means a crash on Deer Mountain overlooking Ketchikan, AK. There are quite a few crashes and accidents on that mountain.

dave

 

[PeteDavis]

Yep-this was in 1978-about 2/3 of the way up on a switchback. USFS crew plane. Sorry, I digressed.

PD