Wrinkled balls from an RCBS steel mould

[rrgr40]

I have been making balls with this mould for several years now with outstanding results. After every session I let it cool and oil it with WD40 before putting it up. Before using it again, I clean the mould with denatured alchohol before heating it up. The last time I used it there was a consistant wrinkle on the side of the ball. I realize I did something wrong here but do not know what or exactly how to fix it. I tried putting the alchohol on some 0000 steel wool, put the wool on a Q-tip and cleaning the cavity, but to no avail. I'm not sure how much this wrinkle will affect accuracy, especially at longer ranges. I use the balls for a 200 yard steel silhouette match. HELP! ::

 

[Stumpkiller]

A wrinkle usually means the mould or the lead is too cool. Turn up the furnace and dip the corner of the mould in the lead prior to casting.

Could also be some kind of contaminating metal in the lead.

 

[rrgr40]

That's the way I do. I kinda figured that I got some kinda contamination in the cavity but I don't know what is or how to det it out. What do you think?

 

[Stumpkiller]

I use acetone or lighter fluid to clean mine, then coat the two faces with soot from a candle.

If you've got metal contamination you can crank the pot up to max and flux with beeswax (or other wax) and skim well. Unfortunately, most pots don't get hot enough to seperate out antimony or other heavy metals, but you can get some of it that way.

 

[noahmercy]

How do, Ridgeroader. The topic of your post gave me a good idea for a camp name! :crackup: That being said, I ran into a similar problem casting a couple weeks ago, and found that the contamination wasn't coming from inside the cavity. It was a miniscule amount of lube under the sprue plate that kept migrating to the same point inside the mold. I ended up boiling the mold for a few minutes to get into all the nooks and crannies, then followed up with a denatured alky cleaning and thorough sooting like Stumpy recommended. Worked like a charm, but I had to remember to coat the mold good with oil afterward since it was dry as a bone. Good luck!

 

[brushbuster]

check the alignment pins in your mold and make sure they are still seated properly,although i agree with stumpy and think your lead is not hot enough.i never purchased an electric melting pot,i just use a propane burner ,a cast iron pot and a dipping ladle.

 

[rrgr40]

First, what's the camp name? Second, you hit the nail on the head with that thread, its got to be the oil around the screw that holds the sprue cutter. I have know about the candle soot for aluminum moulds but have never tried it on my steel moulds, I'll try it next time. Thanks for the help guys. :thumbsup: :agree:

 

[rrgr40]

Stumpy, normally I would agree with you about the lead temp. In this case however I am using a double mould and only the cavity next to the handle is giving me problems. Thanks again.

 

[flaming canvas]

I have know about the candle soot for aluminum moulds but have never tried it on my steel moulds, I'll try it next time. Thanks for the help guys. :thumbsup: :agree:

I prefer wooden matches to blacken the mold cavities. Using a candle, I have gotten wax on the inside and had a devil of a time getting it cleaned out.

 

[Zonie]

When I had a similar problem with my Lee blocks I tried heating the lead up to the upper 600 degree area.
It didn't help, and after reading this post, I think it might have been a lube contamination problem.
I'll keep this in mind the next time I run some balls.

Oh, like I said, I heated the lead way up.
I thought, boy, isn't this ironic!
Why it's enough to Frost My Balls!!! :: :: :crackup: :crackup: :crackup: