• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Yippy, UPS dropped off a box!

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Goldhunter

54 Cal.
Joined
Mar 27, 2006
Messages
1,596
Reaction score
6
The Brown truck dropped off my new kit today.
J. Dickert from Pecatonica River.
Grade 3 Maple, 38" .54 cal Swamped G.M. barrel, Chambers Siler F.L.,
This will be my first time inletting for lock, triggers, sidplate,etc. Have done a butt plate on my last stock. I've been studying the "Gunsmith of Grenville County" but I'm sure to have plenty of questions.
P1110024.jpg

P1110028.jpg

Right now the only thing I can think of is, patch box or no patch box? I've never done any carving or engraving so right now the rifle will have nothing fancy, just some simple molding when I get to that point.
 
patchbox?

go for it! (slowly, and with care)

you're gonna really like the lock, too

good luck with your new project

msw
 
She's gonna be a beauty! Best of luck to you on your build. Post pics when you finish please. :)
 
Thanks all. First question, what angle counter sink do you use? Is there a specific one or will any countersink bit work? Does the angle even matter?

Also, I want to put a Chambers white lightning vent liner and there are three different sizes, does it matter which one?

thanks
 
have fun and good luck. Ill hopefully be doning the same thing come winter(next winter that is).
 
I assume you are talking about the countersink for the Chambers vent liner ? Seems like it is 86 deg countersinkl. As for what one? lordy there are 49 dif ones but I suggest at least a 1/2" onr & a 5/8" one is better as you can use that later on to crown muzzles & lots of things. Also they make countersinks that are anti-chatter if you want to go to that expense. I use a standard 82 deg. carbide one & then take a tapered cone shapped stone in a drill & just barely touch it & smooth it up if I get chatter. Have heard of several ways to eliminate the chatter but they didn't work for me.
When you get the Chambers liner it has the instruction in the package, read & follow to the T. And unless you have the tap, go ahead & get the drill bit & tap with it & buy 2 liners, just for the heck of it.

As for size, if you go with 1/4" you can always go larger later on if need be. I usually put a 5/16" one in a .54 cal barrel such as you are using, because it has one heck of a cone inside it & the ignition of it is tremendously fast. The down side to it (if you call it that) is you can feel the jag/patch hit that area because it is large. It is not a problem & doesn't hurt anything, but you can feel just a tad of relieve when you swab or clean it when you go to the vent liner part on the 5/16" one or larger.

Do NOT sink the countersink in so deep as to fit all of the vent liners beveled edge & straight side in..... if ya do you went too deep. You just get upp well into the bevel but not past it, not up the straight edge of the vent liner. That would take a counterbore bit not a countersink.

When you get ready to cut the installation lug off, tape the barrel well so your saw doesn't get into the barrel.

Keep in mind if you use a Chambers you are stuck with that thread, cannot change to 1/4-28 or whatever. Also if you dryball several times a range session, I suggest ya just go with a modified Ampco vent liner......

:thumbsup:
 
thanks! Is there a huge advantage for the chambers over others besides the the cone on the inside?

What about the countersink for the tang bolt and the butt plate screws? Any particular size/angle?
 
I use a 60 degree countersink for all of the other countersinks (Barrel tang, Buttplate, Triggerplate, etc.) I buy most of my drills, countersinks, taps, & etc from MSC Industrial Supply.

One advantage I feel the chambers liner has over the others........... it has threads all the way to the bevel fit. Most the other vent liners don't. The others have the beveled edge & then a space & then threads & you lose at least 1 thread there if not more. Well on a thick barrel that is not a issue, but on a thin barrel that leaves you with only 2-3 threads holding the vent liner & tho that is said to be sufficent, I just feel more comfortable with 5 fine threads rather tnan 2 larger ones........ Guess it all depends on the builder.......
 
I use a 5/16" to keep it within the side flat. But another very skilled builder here (Neill) puts the 3/8" on any size barrel. If the plug sticks out into the diagonal flats, he just files the plug flat to the diagonals. I don't know how much more cavity there is in a 3/8" than a 5/16", but it is some larger or he wouldn't do it.
 
Goldhunter, I'm in the same boat regarding the patchbox issue with my TOTW colonial longrifle. Plenty of time to make the decision, though. I might just put one on, but I need to decide whether to go with a brass box or sliding wooden box.
DJL
 
That's one of my dilemas. This is supposed to be a rifle that would have been made around 1790-1800ish. Something a simple person would have had (read that as couldn't afford all the extra carving and engraving)

I know Dickert's style didn't change much at all during his life. So I'm guessing a wood PB wouldn't be out place. But I'm curious as to the durability of a wood PB, and a little intimidated with making one. :redface:
On the other hand, I like some of the brass PB but I don't like a LOT of brass either. Besides, I see a brass PB and to me it doesn't look right unless it has just a little engraving.

What to do, what to do. Oh well, I've got a couple months till I get to that point. :grin:
 
I would say forget the patchbox & learn to build the rifle. You can always add a patchbox later if you fee like it.

Also keep in mind a niced clean built plain rifle is more appealing than a fancy poorly built one.... :hmm:
 
Goldhunter,
Good luck and keep us posted on your
progress.
snake-eyes :hatsoff:
 
Goldhunter said:
The Brown truck dropped off my new kit today.
J. Dickert from Pecatonica River.
Grade 3 Maple, 38" .54 cal Swamped G.M. barrel, Chambers Siler F.L.,
This will be my first time inletting for lock, triggers, sidplate,etc. Have done a butt plate on my last stock. I've been studying the "Gunsmith of Grenville County" but I'm sure to have plenty of questions.
P1110024.jpg

P1110028.jpg

Right now the only thing I can think of is, patch box or no patch box? I've never done any carving or engraving so right now the rifle will have nothing fancy, just some simple molding when I get to that point.


Wow thats exactly what mine looked like about a year ago........I opted for plain simple lines, just my preference. I was going to put on a brass patch box but while I was doing a practice inleting job on a scrap piece of wood the wife walked by and said "why would anybody put such a GAUDY looking thing on a rifle" end of patch box :haha: :haha:
Take your time and remember measure about 10 times before cutting and remember have fun, when it isnt fun walk away for a week or so :thumbsup:
 
Back
Top