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Cody2306

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So I recently been working on working up a load and zeroing my gpr in .54. And at first my point of impact was extremely low at 25 yards. So I filed down the front sight and it took quite a bit of filing to get the poi up. But right now with 90grn 2fg goex and .530 roundball and .015 pillow ticking i got my poi about 2-3 inches low at 25 yards. But before I start filing to much off the front site I would like some thoughts or ideas of what to expect for my zeroing goal. My average shot would be between 25-50yards but I would like 100 yards to be paussible without having to aim extremely high. Not sure if this makes sense of what I'm asking. But if I'm on at 50 yards will I be low at 25 yards and what would I expect at 100 yards. What do yall guys zero your rifles in at for hunting? Sorry if my question don't make much sense. In my head it made perfect sense till I tried to type it out. Lol 😆
 
With your powder load your muzzle velocity will be around 1570 fps.
I'm going to assume you only have a 25 yard range to do your sighting in so I based my figures on that range.

Sighted in to dead center at 25 yards the ball will hit 0.70" low at 50 yards, 3.5" low at 75 yards, and 8.6" low at 100 yards.

If you sight the gun in to shoot 0.4" high at 25 yards the ball will hit dead center at 50 yards, 2.3" low at 75 yards and 7.1" low at 100 yards.

If you sight the gun in to shoot 1.2" high at 25 yards the ball will hit 1.6" high at 50 yards. dead center at 75 yards and 3.8" low at 100 yards.

If you can, try to find a range that has at least a 50 yard target and do your sighting in using that distance. It makes small adjustments on the front sight height much easier to see what the results are.
 
Wow!! That's some good info right there. At the range I been going too. It has 25 yard, 50, and 100 yard. I will probably get a chance to go tomorrow. Thanks for your help.
 
I'm thinking the 75 yard zero gives the fattest trajectory for shooting out to a 100 yards.
 
This rifle is similar to yours with a 32”barrel by Green Mountain. When I built it I worked up my load over a chronograph and found fine accuracy up to 110 grains of 2fg and a round ball. This gave 1919 FPS and low ES . With this load zeroed at 100 yards it’s on at 25 yards as well. The point is you need to shoot and find what your rifle is doing.
all 116 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
 
Phil thanks for the info! I know I have some trial amd error to do . I was mainly worried about filing to much off front site and possibly not achieving the zero i want. But I did order a old school hawken adjustable site and another front site just In case
 
I just solder or JB Weld a blade on the back sight for sighting in. Once you get the range you want measure the height of the blade and make or buy a back sight that will work. That keeps me from filing down the front sight too far. Most of the time I get lazy and just leave the blade on the back sight. I sight in about 2" high at 50yds.
 
As to Zonie's post, I sight in at approximately 1.2" to 1.5" at 25 which translates to 1.5" to 2" at 50 and I'm point blank to 100 yards. Of course much depends on the particular rifle and the caliber & load.
 
I usually sight in a touch high at 25 yards, which puts me on around 75 yards. That's the limit for most of my hunting, and still leaves the possibility for a 125 yard shot by holding on the spine (of north
Tx deer).
If I was hunting squirrels I'd have it hit dead on at 25, which is pretty close for most hunting.

Of course my dad just used a "Fine Bead" up close and a "Full Bead" farther out. Worked for him.
 
I just solder or JB Weld a blade on the back sight for sighting in. Once you get the range you want measure the height of the blade and make or buy a back sight that will work. That keeps me from filing down the front sight too far. Most of the time I get lazy and just leave the blade on the back sight. I sight in about 2" high at 50yds.
Now there is something I never heard of. Cannot get a picture of that in my head. Can you show a picture or a drawing?
 
Now there is something I never heard of. Cannot get a picture of that in my head. Can you show a picture or a drawing?

I can give it a try, not trying to steal anybody's thunder ...,

EC121 is writing about putting a temporary and higher "shim or blade" on the back of a primitive rear sight, (using glue or solder) and then you adjust with a file that temporary, disposable bit until you're onto the target where you want to be, THEN measure the distance between the barrel flat and the top of the sight and thus you will know how high a finished, rear sight blade you will need. Replace the old rear sight with a higher rear sight..., sight in the new sight..., and voila..., the rifle's on target.

PRIMITIVE REAR SIGHTS with shim.jpg


LD
 
I have five .54 caliber rifles. They each are slightly different in ROT, and some in what I load. The muzzle velocity varies from a low of 1445 FPS to a high of 1770 FPS. Nonetheless, each is sighted at 2-inches high at 50-yards and is in a 3.5-inch bullseye at 100-yards. Some are at the bottom of that circle and some at the top, but all will get it done at 100-yards if needed. Great advice in above posts.
 
With your powder load your muzzle velocity will be around 1570 fps.
I'm going to assume you only have a 25 yard range to do your sighting in so I based my figures on that range.

Sighted in to dead center at 25 yards the ball will hit 0.70" low at 50 yards, 3.5" low at 75 yards, and 8.6" low at 100 yards.

If you sight the gun in to shoot 0.4" high at 25 yards the ball will hit dead center at 50 yards, 2.3" low at 75 yards and 7.1" low at 100 yards.

If you sight the gun in to shoot 1.2" high at 25 yards the ball will hit 1.6" high at 50 yards. dead center at 75 yards and 3.8" low at 100 yards.

If you can, try to find a range that has at least a 50 yard target and do your sighting in using that distance. It makes small adjustments on the front sight height much easier to see what the results are.
Great answer!
 
I can give it a try, not trying to steal anybody's thunder ...,

EC121 is writing about putting a temporary and higher "shim or blade" on the back of a primitive rear sight, (using glue or solder) and then you adjust with a file that temporary, disposable bit until you're onto the target where you want to be, THEN measure the distance between the barrel flat and the top of the sight and thus you will know how high a finished, rear sight blade you will need. Replace the old rear sight with a higher rear sight..., sight in the new sight..., and voila..., the rifle's on target.

View attachment 72038

LD
Now I gotcha. Perfect. I kept trying to imagine a blade like the front sight.
 
Agree with all that has been said so far. Find these 2 loads first;

1.) Your most accurate load using Dutch's system
2.) The load you will use in the field for hunting

From there you can decide how to adjust your sights for the position you will be shooting from most often. Those WILL be slightly different impact points. My POI is slightly higher in standing position than it is from the bench.
 
If I am target shooting then I use Dutch's system or a variation of it but if I am hunting then I use a lube that will keep my shots within a 6" circle at 75 - 100 yds. AND that I can reload quickly if need be ;)
 
* update ... At the moment I'm getting about 1" -1.5" high at 25 and right on at 50 yards. But 100 yards I'm not even hitting paper. So realistically I'm good for hunting when my farthest hunting shot will be 50 yards in the woods. I'm gonna try a different range later that has 75 yards so I can see what's happening there. I'm sure the 100 yard not hitting target is more than likely human error
 
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