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Jukar .45 Plains Rifle

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Joined
Jul 28, 2022
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Englishman, living in France.
I have just acquired one of these (mislaid my phone: Photo to follow). It goes onto half ****, but on full **** it just wont 'catch', and the hammer returns to the nipple without the trigger being pulled. Out of the stock, the lock works perfectly. In all your experiences, is this simply a matter of the lock being 'compressed' within the stock and therefore not working freely? If so, would shaving say half a millimetre of wood from the inside of the stock rectify the situation? I love it, by the way. It looks far more like a Hawken in comparison to my rather chunky and less delicate looking Investarm one. The barrel on the Jukar is about 3 inches longer too. That said, the Investarm, functionally, is a great rifle.
 
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Something internal on the lock might be contacting wood. Check your sear arm isnt touching in the hole, either on the sides or the bottom. Also check that the tumbler and mainspring have free travel. Use some inlet black, lipstick or whatever and put on the lock internals and work the ****, then check for color transfer within the mortice. Hope that helps.
 
Something internal on the lock might be contacting wood. Check your sear arm isnt touching in the hole, either on the sides or the bottom. Also check that the tumbler and mainspring have free travel. Use some inlet black, lipstick or whatever and put on the lock internals and work the ****, then check for color transfer within the mortice. Hope that helps.
Good idea - thanks!
 
@Sir Boniface Harrison, I agree with your observation that wood is compressed into the trigger mortise. Shaving any wood from the trigger mortise will only make the problem worse. What is needed is a shim between the the wood in the trigger mortise and the trigger plate to lower the top of the trigger lever. Sometimes a shim can be made of epoxy. A shim can be made from a cardboard cereal box to see how thick you need to make the shim. Lots of threads on the Forum on how to correct this problem.
 
Something that causes a lot of malfunctions, is tightening the lock bolts too much, bowing the lock plate. Just tighten them with a thumb and finger on your turn screw. They don't need torqued in like a tire lug, just enough to hold them in place.

If a trigger lever is contacting the sear, the trigger lever is filed down to having a slight clearance when cocked.
 
I had one that did that. different rifle same problem. couldn't find any stock interference so i took the lock apart and laid the lockplate on the flattest surface i could find and had a slight bow in the plate. took the bow out and filed the plate surface to finish and polish it, put it all back together and it has worked perfectly in the last 10 yrs. i probably caused the problem by inadvertently overtightening the screw, it was a rpl lock in my gpr. all i do know is turn the screw till it stops and all is well.
 
@Sir Boniface Harrison, I agree with your observation that wood is compressed into the trigger mortise. Shaving any wood from the trigger mortise will only make the problem worse. What is needed is a shim between the the wood in the trigger mortise and the trigger plate to lower the top of the trigger lever. Sometimes a shim can be made of epoxy. A shim can be made from a cardboard cereal box to see how thick you need to make the shim. Lots of threads on the Forum on how to correct this problem.
Would the shim therefore act as a spacer preventing contact with the internal workings of the lock and the stock? I have plenty of 0.5mm aluminium sheet. Would this be useful? Sorry, I am still relatively new to this.
 
@Sir Boniface Harrison, what the shim on the trigger plate is doing is to lower the trigger lever reducing the interference between the trigger lever and the sear lever in the lock. It is does not have an effect on the relationship of the sear lever and the stock. There is the potential for the tip of the sear lever in the lock to be rubbing internally on the stock wood, so while the lock is out of the stock, look for signs of rubbing at the tip of the sear lever. If the sear lever is rubbing, then either take some wood out of the cavity for the sear lever or very slightly shorten the sear lever.

Your 0.5 mm (0.020 inch) thick stock may not be enough to separate the trigger lever from the sear lever. It is worth the trial.

When installing lock plate bolts or the trigger plate, it is only necessary to tighten the bolts to snug. No need to overtighten these bolts or you will compress wood which will lead to the problems you have observed.
 
Trimming the height of the trigger lever is one way to reduce the chance of interference between the trigger lever and the sear lever. The con to that is that if there is case hardening of the trigger lever to reduce wear, then trimming the lever can eliminate the case hardening. Shimming the trigger plate is my preferred solution.
 
Trimming the height of the trigger lever is one way to reduce the chance of interference between the trigger lever and the sear lever. The con to that is that if there is case hardening of the trigger lever to reduce wear, then trimming the lever can eliminate the case hardening. Shimming the trigger plate is my preferred solution.
I have never seen a hardened trigger. No point in doing so. They just need well polished.
 
@waksupi has a good point. If the trigger plate is flush with the wood surface next to it, then taking some metal off the top of the trigger lever is a good solution. If the wood in compressed in the trigger mortise and the trigger plate is below the surface of the stock wood, the shim to lower the trigger lever and bring the trigger plate back to the surface of the wood should be considered.
 
I have never seen a "Jukar",, "Plains Rifle".
Still waiting for the photo's from the first post, still without confirmation :dunno:
Here we are, confirmation that I do in fact own it and havent made it all up! I use the description of 'Jukar Plains Rifle' because that is the description it is sold under. I believe that these were generally sold as 'cheapies'. However, the stock (single piece) is solid and well tooled, and the rifling is very precise and deep. The only problem being the current one, which I assume is due to age and use rather than the initial quality of the product.
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Show me "where" it say's "jukar".
Other wise that looks like a safe queen CVA Mountain rifle,,(far cry from "jukar")
The common problem with those rifles is the trigger mortise because of olde wood,,
Shim the front,, but a lot more than .5mm,, more like an 1/8th in, honest
 
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Well, Got it, Thank's
I just saw that you are in France! You guy's have a different market then we have the in USA!!
You actually have a fine rifle,, Ardessa was/is the current supplier.
None the less, your troubles have to do with the wood being compressed from decades of use and abuse.
As mentioned, shim the front of the trigger,,,, it's the screw that goes through the stock,, the tang bolt,, that has caused the compression,,
Drop the trigger guard, remove the tang bolt,, then fit a shim under the place the tang bolt fits,, hope that helps,,
 
Well, Got it, Thank's
I just saw that you are in France! You guy's have a different market then we have the in USA!!
You actually have a fine rifle,, Ardessa was/is the current supplier.
None the less, your troubles have to do with the wood being compressed from decades of use and abuse.
As mentioned, shim the front of the trigger,,,, it's the screw that goes through the stock,, the tang bolt,, that has caused the compression,,
Drop the trigger guard, remove the tang bolt,, then fit a shim under the place the tang bolt fits,, hope that helps,,
Thank you sir! Yes, I'm an Englishman living in France. Gun laws here are a lot more liberal than in the UK! I am glad my new rifle is a good one, I was beginning to wonder when I looked them up elsewhere on the forum. Thank you very much for taking the time to address this for me.
 
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