Open top Colt tuning explained.

[D Yager]

Thanks for posting that pitcher MIke, Saved me the effort of learning how to post one.

 

[45D]

Thanks for posting that pitcher MIke, Saved me the effort of learning how to post one.

Oh NO !!!!!!
You still gotta learn !!!

 

[D Yager]

Here are all the things that are wrong with the (insert whatever) that you has been (working fine) for a couple of years now.

I can fix all of this for you for only (How much I want to stiff you for) a small price to pay for peace of mind.

I love it when these guys try to drum up business.

Shouldn't this be an advertisement?

It is a rundown on what I and others do to tune and improve these revolvers. It is also a response to He Who walks Behind The Corn and his ranting. What I do is offer a service at a reasonable cost. Are you implying that tuners in general are ripping off customers? If you feel that way don't use my services.

 

[Jedidiah]

It is a rundown on what I and others do to tune and improve these revolvers. It is also a response to He Who walks Behind The Corn and his ranting. What I do is offer a service at a reasonable cost. Are you implying that tuners in general are ripping off customers? If you feel that way don't use my services.

Tuning a revolver is something that is a personal choice IMHO. Some people can live with how the firearm currently functions, even given a minor issue or so, and others must have 110% perfection and are suffering if they do not have it. Hence, you can do the work yourself or send it to someone with experience who will perform the requested "services" and charge you accordingly. You either accept the price or you don't. It is that simple. I fail to see how this is any different than the millions of people who avail themselves of the services of various Gunsmiths around the country to get work done? If you think every Gunsmith is "ripping" people off, I guess you better learn to do everything yourself and invest in the Lathes, CNC machines, Milling machines,etc., and the training necessary to use them all properly! I think if 45D and D Yager offer a service, you decide to use it or not. I really fail to see the problem in any of this?

 

[hawkeye2]

D Yager thanks for your excellent post. It clearly covers every aspect of what is wrong with our revolvers and how to fix them. It's great that you and Mike (45D) are willing to spend the time to provide such clear explanations of the problems and cures with the forum. Between the two of you your posts should be the end of all further discussion of issues and modifications but I expect it will go forever just the same.

 

[45D]

OK, thanks. I was incorrectly thinking it somehow was made to fit into the bolt slot in the frame. This makes sense.

Thanks Ed !! Thanks hawkeye2!!
Here's what they look like not installed:

There's a "tail" or "wedge" at the back that sticks under the bolt screw.

Here it's installed. The tail keeps the back in position and when the combination spring is installed, it will keep the front located.

Now the bolt is confined just to do "locking" and " unlocking" duties. It has no room to be pushed sideways to become a ramp and allow throw-by to happen. It also saves the notches from getting battered from a loose fitting bolt.

Mike

 

[D Yager]

Thanks Ed and Hawkeye2! It's nice know there's guys out there with your look on things. Thanks for having our backs.

 

[Smokerr]

Here are all the things that are wrong with the (insert whatever) that you has been (working fine) for a couple of years now.

I can fix all of this for you for only (How much I want to stiff you for) a small price to pay for peace of mind.

I love it when these guys try to drum up business.

Shouldn't this be an advertisement?

I got some great grapes at Costco the last couple of weeks. Unfortunate but there are a few sour ones in there and on the same branch!

While I was far more familiar with 45D to start with (boy did he get me on track and was very nice about it despite my insulting him) and now D Yager.

Both are generous with free information. Talk with Mike had me fixing the drag on the ROA with confidence (I had the idea but was not sure I had it right and I don't want to muck up something).

I have no issues with them discussing that they tune guns. Fundamentally it separates t he sour grapes from the good tasking grapes. If you choose to do it yourself (or try) you know its a well researched and refined fix. It also gives you the info as to do you want to do it yourself, can you or are you better off sending it to one of them?

What I hate about NPR is they just present information. Reporting without an analysis of whether or not there is a solution and if so is it effective?

You know what they do is effective. You can decide if you need or want that effective and even if it makes a difference to your kind of shooting.

In short, you get reality based answers you can make an informed decision on. It don't get no better than that.

 

[Smokerr]

Maybe if we ask real nice Uberti will do it again… 1979 date code.

LOL, see Short Arbor syndrome!

Interesting rear sight. What does the front one look like? Oddly, I love the 47 Walker Hammer sight. It gives me a long sight picture and with the Eyepal that allows me a decent sight picture at 25 yards with my bad focusing eyes.

I did raise the front sight post but that was a guess that worked and its a post not a Partridge type. A bit of work on the rear hammer slot and I am happy with it.

ROA a different story but I had a base to work with which gave me free reign. I started out with one idea and after a fight with what turned out to be an insanely tough bit of metal, shifted gears and came up with a better idea. ugly but better.

 

[Smokerr]

What is funny is I don't to Mike or D Yager class of work, not even close. But I can post pictures! (pun not intended but not avoided, get it Post?) ah well. Keep in mind I was the guy in shop class that made a slanting book shelf, took it home for my Mom. The look of horror was just too good. She tried to be nice, I told her it was a piece of junk but it might be handy if you did not have it displayed in public!

 

[Bad Karma]

LOL, see Short Arbor syndrome!

Interesting rear sight. What does the front one look like? Oddly, I love the 47 Walker Hammer sight. It gives me a long sight picture and with the Eyepal that allows me a decent sight picture at 25 yards with my bad focusing eyes.

I did raise the front sight post but that was a guess that worked and its a post not a Partridge type. A bit of work on the rear hammer slot and I am happy with it.

ROA a different story but I had a base to work with which gave me free rein. I started out with one idea and after a fight with what turned out to be an insanely tough bit of metal, shifted gears and came up with a better idea. ugly but better.

This arbor is fitted. The front sight is about the same as the front sight on an 1872 open top. In other words, taller than the 1860 sight. POI is the same as POA at 25 yards.

 

[Smokerr]

Nice. I always thought 25 yards was a good distance. You can raise or lower a bit for shorter or longer range. ROA was 10-15 inches high and that is a lot of adjust for.

 

[Ed C.]

Thanks Ed !! Thanks hawkeye2!!
Here's what they look like not installed:
View attachment 381347
There's a "tail" or "wedge" at the back that sticks under the bolt screw.
View attachment 381349
Here it's installed. The tail keeps the back in position and when the combination spring is installed, it will keep the front located.
View attachment 381352
Now the bolt is confined just to do "locking" and " unlocking" duties. It has no room to be pushed sideways to become a ramp and allow throw-by to happen. It also saves the notches from getting battered from a loose fitting bolt.

Mike

Thanks. From D Yager's description I understood the purpose but could not visualize how or where it was installed. Photo goes a long way.

 

[Smokerr]

While I was a word guy, a picture always sets the stage for the description. Once I have the picture the rest tends to make sense (if its a sensical subject). As I get older my reading comprehension is fading.

 

[Ed C.]

As I get older my reading comprehension is fading.

And here I thought I was the only one.

 

[Pete453]

Thanks, nice to have some support after a certain party went on the attack.

Hey, truth is truth, even if it's not popular

Thanks Ed !! Thanks hawkeye2!!
Here's what they look like not installed:
View attachment 381347
There's a "tail" or "wedge" at the back that sticks under the bolt screw.
View attachment 381349
Here it's installed. The tail keeps the back in position and when the combination spring is installed, it will keep the front located.
View attachment 381352
Now the bolt is confined just to do "locking" and " unlocking" duties. It has no room to be pushed sideways to become a ramp and allow throw-by to happen. It also saves the notches from getting battered from a loose fitting bolt.

Mike

So it helps with throw by? I'm starting to mess with my 62 pocket police, is throwing by. I'll incorporate a bolt block, seems a worthy addition with a light cylinder

 

[D Yager]

It will help however a stronger hand spring will help as well. I replace the hand flat spring with a small plunger and a stout for it's size stainless steel coil spring, It helps especially in that area just before the half cock notch engages where the cylinder is most likely to overrun. Those pocket pistols have a very narrow adjustment for bolt drop, just after the half cock notch. The bolt guide will help get that under control. Do be careful if you decide to drop the bolt sooner as a small amount off the left bolt leg can be a lot on these guys. It's easy to make em shorter but you can't make it longer.

 

[stank]

Lots of good info

 

[CyrusP]

Mike has done three guns for me. All amazing quality and priced fairly for that quality. It’s safe to say these gents give away more work with their generosity of knowledge than they take in.

 

[Pete453]

It will help however a stronger hand spring will help as well. I replace the hand flat spring with a small plunger and a stout for it's size stainless steel coil spring, It helps especially in that area just before the half cock notch engages where the cylinder is most likely to overrun. Those pocket pistols have a very narrow adjustment for bolt drop, just after the half cock notch. The bolt guide will help get that under control. Do be careful if you decide to drop the bolt sooner as a small amount off the left bolt leg can be a lot on these guys. It's easy to make em shorter but you can't make it longer.

I thought about a plunger spring, thanks for confirming it.
I also thought about stoning the bolt leg a bit, the bolt is dropping at the edge of the notch, I would prefer it drop into the beginning of the lead.
I have to shim the arbor, I'll do that and make a bolt block before I do anything else.
Thanks again for your advice.