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Went back to water - cleaning woes and foes

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Sparkitoff

Sparkitoff

40 Cal.
MLF Supporter
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For quite a while I've been avoiding straight water cleaning of my ML's including shotguns, rifles and handguns. I've used an electronic spray cleaner through the nipple hole and some concoction, usually windex w/o ammonia, alcohol, murphy's oil soap and some slight variations. I know there's some water in each of these ingredients which is what I mean by avoiding "straight water". Cleaning with this mix takes between 8 and 12 patches to get some semblance of clean - or still mostly white patches. That's not including an oiled patch afterwards. This worked fine for years. I think I got the idea from Dutch's method and just stuck to it.

Due to circumstances on some travel adventures, I did not have or could not get all ingredients for cleaning mixture. So, I went back to boiled water pumped up and down through the barrel with the nipples in the water and a patch on a jag in the muzzle. First, I just started doing the shotguns. Then I cleaned some of the rifles this way too. Today I did some shooting and cleaned some rifles and shotguns. One patch pumping the boiling water. One dry patch up and down. One with 91% alcohol as a drying agent and to evaporate remaining moisture. One patch with oil. Just 4 patches total, the 3rd in sequence coming out clean (mostly white).

I haven't seen any rust or issues since I switched back to boiling water. For my guns that have a fixed barrel, one that cannot be easily removed, I am inclined to continue cleaning with the "concoction" because I don't want water all in the stock, and I can control the cleaning mix on the patches better. But other than those few, I think I'm sticking to the water for ease and efficiency. If its clean, lubed and rust free I don't care how it got there.
 
I just use hot water from the tap, and a shot of Dawn for rifles and shotgun. I have a spray bottle with ballistol and water I take the the range for my revolvers. I spray them good and wrap them in an old T shirt or towel until I get to the house and clean them thoroughly. No rust issues. I do set the muzzles of the long guns pointing down for a few hours, to overnight. One dry patch, then a patch saturated with Barricade and the ladies are ready for the next outing.
 
I cut some 1/4" rubber disks out of an old inner tube and put one in the hammer nose to seal the nipple. It keeps the water off the stock. When I dry out the barrel I put the hammer on half **** with a wadded up paper towel over the nipple. The patches ran down the barrel blow out the water in the drum or patent breech. Easy enough and there is always some universal black powder solvent around, even if I have to dip it out of a crick.
 
Hot water will help remove any lube mixed with powder fouling from your barrel that will cause rust. Try it ..... Put your lube on your hand and run your hand under cool water. The water just beads off your hand the same way the water just beads off the powder fouling mixed with your lube in your barrel. Hot water will melt away that fouling with lube mixed in and allow the barrel to get clean down into the lands and grooves.
Ohio Rusty ><>
 
I use room temperature water and my modified pump up sprayer with the gun in a muzzle down rack I built, with the nipple/flash hole pointed down. No water on the stock and the bore spotless with about a gallon of water sprayed in and a couple of patches to dry then Barricade to protect.
sprayer 002.jpg

PS: The old Hudson Sprayer had to be replaced as there are no parts available. Went to Walmart and picked up a 1 gallon sprayer for $9.95 and spliced the 2 hoses together for more hose and it works just fine.
 
bpd303 said:
I use room temperature water and my modified pump up sprayer with the gun in a muzzle down rack I built, with the nipple/flash hole pointed down. No water on the stock and the bore spotless with about a gallon of water sprayed in and a couple of patches to dry then Barricade to protect.
View attachment 305423
PS: The old Hudson Sprayer had to be replaced as there are no parts available. Went to Walmart and picked up a 1 gallon sprayer for $9.95 and spliced the 2 hoses together for more hose and it works just fine.
Click to expand...
That's a pretty slick setup ya got there.
 
bpd303 said:
Thanks, I had to extend the wand with copper tubing and put an orifice on the end. If I were to make another I would use hard plastic tubing for the extension.
Click to expand...
I remember a similar setup a buddy made using an empty liquid laundry soap jug (maybe 2 gallon?), and surgical tubing. Let gravity move the water. It worked ok I guess but made a heck of a mess. I like the bore down rack you have. Your setup would be good for my Crockett rifle, I wouldn't have to keep removing the wood screw on the tang. That always makes me nervous.
 
Sparkitoff said:
For quite a while I've been avoiding straight water cleaning of my ML's including shotguns, rifles and handguns. I've used an electronic spray cleaner through the nipple hole and some concoction, usually windex w/o ammonia, alcohol, murphy's oil soap and some slight variations. I know there's some water in each of these ingredients which is what I mean by avoiding "straight water". Cleaning with this mix takes between 8 and 12 patches to get some semblance of clean - or still mostly white patches. That's not including an oiled patch afterwards. This worked fine for years. I think I got the idea from Dutch's method and just stuck to it.

Due to circumstances on some travel adventures, I did not have or could not get all ingredients for cleaning mixture. So, I went back to boiled water pumped up and down through the barrel with the nipples in the water and a patch on a jag in the muzzle. First, I just started doing the shotguns. Then I cleaned some of the rifles this way too. Today I did some shooting and cleaned some rifles and shotguns. One patch pumping the boiling water. One dry patch up and down. One with 91% alcohol as a drying agent and to evaporate remaining moisture. One patch with oil. Just 4 patches total, the 3rd in sequence coming out clean (mostly white).

I haven't seen any rust or issues since I switched back to boiling water. For my guns that have a fixed barrel, one that cannot be easily removed, I am inclined to continue cleaning with the "concoction" because I don't want water all in the stock, and I can control the cleaning mix on the patches better. But other than those few, I think I'm sticking to the water for ease and efficiency. If its clean, lubed and rust free I don't care how it got there.
Click to expand...
The blue windshield washer fluid works pretty good to I keep a small bottle in my range box for cleaning at the range .You can add a little soap or not ,at home home I just use water and motor oil .
 
I remember back in the late 70s me a buddy of mine go shooting in the nearby woods and then head to his house where we go down his basement and clean her muzzleloaders with boiling water. I remember patches coming out all orangey and couldn’t figure out what was going on until years later I realize that was flash rust, I’ve been using cool water for the longest time without any problems
 
Togo said:
Warm water and a few drops of dawn is all I use for a great cleaning, then alcohol or wd40 for my water displacement then RemOil for final lube.
Click to expand...
My same method also, except I finish off with CLP instead of RemOil.
 
Sparkitoff said:
For quite a while I've been avoiding straight water cleaning of my ML's including shotguns, rifles and handguns. I've used an electronic spray cleaner through the nipple hole and some concoction, usually windex w/o ammonia, alcohol, murphy's oil soap and some slight variations. I know there's some water in each of these ingredients which is what I mean by avoiding "straight water". Cleaning with this mix takes between 8 and 12 patches to get some semblance of clean - or still mostly white patches. That's not including an oiled patch afterwards. This worked fine for years. I think I got the idea from Dutch's method and just stuck to it.

Due to circumstances on some travel adventures, I did not have or could not get all ingredients for cleaning mixture. So, I went back to boiled water pumped up and down through the barrel with the nipples in the water and a patch on a jag in the muzzle. First, I just started doing the shotguns. Then I cleaned some of the rifles this way too. Today I did some shooting and cleaned some rifles and shotguns. One patch pumping the boiling water. One dry patch up and down. One with 91% alcohol as a drying agent and to evaporate remaining moisture. One patch with oil. Just 4 patches total, the 3rd in sequence coming out clean (mostly white).

I haven't seen any rust or issues since I switched back to boiling water. For my guns that have a fixed barrel, one that cannot be easily removed, I am inclined to continue cleaning with the "concoction" because I don't want water all in the stock, and I can control the cleaning mix on the patches better. But other than those few, I think I'm sticking to the water for ease and efficiency. If its clean, lubed and rust free I don't care how it got there.
Click to expand...
I have always used hot, soapy water to clean all parts of the firearm and a boiling water rinse. On the long arms, I use tongs with silicone and a brass funnel to facilitate the pouring of the boiling rinse down the barrel. On the revolvers, I use a pot of boiling water with a colander strainer to hold the parts while rinsing for at least several minutes. The metal gets so hot that the moisture quickly evaporates. On the warm metal, I brush on Ballistol to protect the arm from the elements. I've got special screwdrivers and nipple wrenches to help along the way. This method was taught to me by wise black powder men, who have passed on, and by their past generations. The one important issue that they all stressed was, do not get lazy in maintaining your arm. In my opinion, this is the best way and the cheapest way to keep your friend in pristine condition.
 

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