Getting ready to shoot a matchlock as a newbie

I know this is an older post. I picked up a Veteran Arms British matchlock a year or so back. I found it to be a very fine shooting gun with the exception of the weight which makes me only wonder about the men who had to carry these things, not so much in Europe, but here in America since they were at Jamestown and even here in Northern NY. As far as priming, I've never had any issues with 3F Goex for priming the gun. I usually only run a small piece of slow match at the range, maybe 8 inches or so and I take it out of the jaws between shots. Last winter I even tried some squirrel hunting with it as it patterns pretty well with #7 1/2 shot out to 40 yards. I never had a squirrel cooperate with me though. Normally I shoot 70 grains of 2F Goex with anything from a .690 ball or .715 that I run with just a simple piece of cut paper over the top and out to 30 plus yards it's fairly accurate.



This was with at 30 yards with 70 grains FFG.


Out this past winter squirrel hunting. When out hunting I do keep a longer piece of slow match in the jaws.

If that tiller on the museum piece on preceeding page is a replacement, they might as well have not bothered if thats as good as they can do.
Threads get worn , and even if a replacement it Still needs screwing in or out half a turn to not look ridiculous!

Pukka Bundook said:

If that tiller on the museum piece on preceeding page is a replacement, they might as well have not bothered if thats as good as they can do.
Threads get worn , and even if a replacement it Still needs screwing in or out half a turn to not look ridiculous!

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The British Museum website states that the barrel is poorly fitted to the gun and the ramrod channel is not the correct length, so that the ramrod interferes with lock’s tiller. They use that as evidence of the lock and barrel probably being later additions. I agree though, if it’s already a dodgy replacement, why not replace it again with some sort of facsimile, so people don’t get confused? And why would someone replace pieces with ones that don’t work? Seems like the work of Victorians….

David, what does your Veterans matchlock weigh?

TobJohn said:

I have actual shooting questions, for once.

Can a matchlock be primed with 2f or 3f powder? I had assumed there would not be a problem, but I saw a claim that large grain graphite coated powders can be hard for a match to light.

What is a good length of slow match for just starting out?

Are there any specific tools that a matchlock shooter should bring, that a flintlock shooter wouldn't?

Is a range rod over kill for the under 30 inch smooth bore of an arquebus?

Weird one, but is wearing a baseball/trucker cap a bad idea with a matchlock?

Thanks!

Click to expand...

Not really course gains 2f works fine even 1f works fine in these musket s fine grain settles closer and tighter in the pan thus less air between the grains of powder 3f is prone to compression thus misfires and hang fires especially in humid or damp conditions 3f and 4f is very bad choice. Generally in the day they used the same powder to load and prime the musket .I have been shooting Matchlocks and hunting with them for 50 years thats how they-did it in the day and it works well.have1f in my bandolier charges and my touch box (Priming flask) thats worked well for Me for a very long time

TobJohn said:

I have actual shooting questions, for once.

Can a matchlock be primed with 2f or 3f powder? I had assumed there would not be a problem, but I saw a claim that large grain graphite coated powders can be hard for a match to light.

What is a good length of slow match for just starting out?

Are there any specific tools that a matchlock shooter should bring, that a flintlock shooter wouldn't?

Is a range rod over kill for the under 30 inch smooth bore of an arquebus?

Weird one, but is wearing a baseball/trucker cap a bad idea with a matchlock?

Thanks!

Click to expand...

Not really course gains 2f works fine even 1f works fine in these musket s

TobJohn said:

I have actual shooting questions, for once.

Can a matchlock be primed with 2f or 3f powder? I had assumed there would not be a problem, but I saw a claim that large grain graphite coated powders can be hard for a match to light.

What is a good length of slow match for just starting out?

Are there any specific tools that a matchlock shooter should bring, that a flintlock shooter wouldn't?

Is a range rod over kill for the under 30 inch smooth bore of an arquebus?

Weird one, but is wearing a baseball/trucker cap a bad idea with a matchlock?

Thanks!

Click to expand...