Well that really helps the OP.I stand by my statement that I would not consider a muzzle loader for self defense. I have no reason to, as I can use a semi-auto pistol firing metallic cartridges.
Well that really helps the OP.I stand by my statement that I would not consider a muzzle loader for self defense. I have no reason to, as I can use a semi-auto pistol firing metallic cartridges.
He asked about "lubricated wads or non-lubricated wads that is the question and what is best for storing cap and ball Revolvers for long periods of time". I answered that question. Now get lost.Well that really helps the OP.
He asked about "lubricated wads or non-lubricated wads that is the question and what is best for storing cap and ball Revolvers for long periods of time". I answered that question. Now get lost.
I was just trying to help the OP based on his follow up response. My mistake reading all his posts on this thread….. Though it is odd you brought up your distain for using cap and ball revolvers for self defense if you were only answering his original question about lubricate wads??? Wonder where that came from? Clairvoyant maybe? Ok, per your request, I am now lost. No need to respond, we have all we need to know.It’s the only protection I can own as a felon, the way the world is now I feel I need to have that type of protection.
I would not consider a muzzle leader for self defense.
Appreciate it that was what I was wondering. They’ll probably stay good for longer as long as no humidity gets to them because I will be using them for self-defense in the home. It’s the only protection I can own as a felon, the way the world is now I feel I need to have that type of protection.
If my capper was all that was available in the moment, then fine, me and my Remington will get to work, but again, only if was the only tool available or used as a backstop.To get back to the OP's original 'IF' I were to leave a cap and ball revolver loaded for any period of time, I'd go with an unlubed wad. Some of the wads you can buy commercially state they are lubed, but it is a dry lube. I always relube them with one of my concoctions as I feel they don't have sufficient lube on them. OR-punch out wads from dry felt and use them unlubed, but that may run the risk of a small rust ring in the cylinder, can't say. What may be the best bet is to load powder and seat a tight lead ball over the powder, no risk of any lubed wad of any kind contaminating the powder. As long as the revolver is stored in a dry, preferably cool area there should be no danger of powder contamination. Question to the OP, would you plan on leaving it capped for quick use, maybe none on the nipple the hammer is resting on or leave it entirely uncapped. Ifin you had intentions of leaving it loaded for defensive purposes or fast critter control, not having it capped would IMO make it equal to throwing a rock as you may not have the opportunity/time to cap. BUT----As I stated in my previous post #7 there are better firearms available for any personal defensive or critter control. Ifin 'thee Ol rubber is meeting the road', any of my cap and balls 'if they were loaded', would be the last firearm I'd use, even any of my Dragoons or Walker (unless of course I'm out shooting and all I had were some of my cappers). If you just want a loaded percussion revolver all loaded up for the next time ya go shooting, loading before that adventure takes little time. JMO's. CC
Enter your email address to join: