I just use Crisco over the balls, it's simple, it works and nothing touches the powder!!
I just use Crisco over the balls, it's simple, it works and nothing touches the powder!!
I have often heard the such, as far as crisco I am leaning towards a wax/crisco mix which some say is firmer and holds up better.Crisco melts easily. I once put Crisco in the bases of my minies while at a competition shooting match. Stored in a plastic box behind the firing line, Crisco went to liquid in the heat. I had to pour the mess out before putting the loads in my cartridge box.
Take a sample and put it in the sun. Watch it melt.
I do not think long-term contamination is an issue.Just caught some fall out, However the title is as TRUE as it is False. I am going to explain, Wads are Lubricated contain some form of grease, be it animal or manufactured Now I load today and shoot today there is no issue but say you live in a State,Country or Jurisdiction that only allows Black Powder Carry or can only afford black powder hand gun and the powder/substitute remains in contact with the lubricated wad. YES there is a level of contamination how much or how bad depends on a lot of different factors, temperature, body heat, humidity so on and so fourth. So yes if you are in the position as described, you may need to shoot em every few days to keep the powder/substitute good when using a lubricated wad. But alas I will digress and say to each his own. Because grease that melts under normal circumstances is just crazy.
I used a lube I made of beeswax+crisco melted together. You can vary the 'stiffness' for use in hot/cold climes; more crisco=softer lube. I used it over ball in my revolver and as a minie and bullet lube.Yes, I used it during a couple 100+ heat waves although Tallow works a little better
Don't expect to be holstering or walking around with a Crisco'd gun in 100 degree weather but slather it on and pop off your rounds, I've fired over 20 cylinders without wiping out guns with just Crisco over the balls in the dead of July .
Crisco melts at 120F
It's a quick and dirty Range fix to keep guns going for punching paper and having fun
If you're a competition shooter or you can't immediately shoot, probably use something firmer or a homemade beeswax mix , etc
I like to keep things simple and I just shoot to pass time and have fun, so I use what I can just buy for a few bucks
I've even used the wads over the ball as an expedient if I happen to have wads on that range day
I used the Traditions wads today and they weren't enough to keep the gun running. The wads are convenient and keep the bore from caking up but do nothing to keep the arbor fouling soft .I used a lube I made of beeswax+crisco melted together. You can vary the 'stiffness' for use in hot/cold climes; more crisco=softer lube. I used it over ball in my revolver and as a minie and bullet lube.
I used the Traditions wads today and they weren't enough to keep the gun running. The wads are convenient and keep the bore from caking up but do nothing to keep the arbor fouling soft .
I have a lube melting setup and a bunch of beeswax, I may just make a batch of revolver lube
My Minie lube has a lot of beeswax and is hard . I'll make a + more Crisco batch
With the weather warming up, I'll have to make some for my range tripsI use my home made wad lube on the arbor too.
Works great.
I once got 96 shots without cleaning on my Uberti .36 navy.
I use a mix of bees wax and olive oil ( or whatever cooking oil the wife has in the cabinet ).
PowderJust caught some fall out, However the title is as TRUE as it is False. I am going to explain, Wads are Lubricated contain some form of grease, be it animal or manufactured Now I load today and shoot today there is no issue but say you live in a State,Country or Jurisdiction that only allows Black Powder Carry or can only afford black powder hand gun and the powder/substitute remains in contact with the lubricated wad. YES there is a level of contamination how much or how bad depends on a lot of different factors, temperature, body heat, humidity so on and so fourth. So yes if you are in the position as described, you may need to shoot em every few days to keep the powder/substitute good when using a lubricated wad. But alas I will digress and say to each his own. Because grease that melts under normal circumstances is just crazy.
If it works on the range to let me get through a 100 round box of balls , it's good enough for meThe concept of grease over the ball is still the dumbest thing Ive heard of.
Burning gunpowder is hot and melts what it comes in contact with. Grease burns.
Taking from my BPC experience, Powder in, then a .030 veggie wad, THEN a wad with No. 13 T/C cleaner. Then a well fit ball.
The veggie wad stops contamination. We use them to stop the boolit lube from getting to the powder in BPC.
https://www.buffaloarms.com/45-caliber-rifle-030-vegeta.html
They look like half smoked joints . I will have to try them out sometime, it seems easy enough to loadAs I posted in another thread here are examples of combustible cartridges made with lubed felt wads. Wads came from Sagebrush Outfitters. The cartridges I made nearly two years ago and they were stored in my shop and have been exposed to extremely cold and hot temps. 9 degrees F up to about 110 degrees F. If you notice the discolored paper from the lube melting out of the wads and wicking into the paper. All fired first cap but there were two hang fires.
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Crisco and bore butter are a mess in Florida!Will crisco work in 100 deg weather? Asking for a friend.
I've been to Orlando for boot camp in July and August. You ain't telling me nothing! Love those little 5 minute thunderstorms where it cools of 30 degrees, then the sun comes back out with a vengeance.Crisco and bore butter are a mess in Florida!
That is also my choice and I'm sticking to it!I use my home made wad lube on the arbor too.
Works great.
I once got 96 shots without cleaning on my Uberti .36 navy.
I use a mix of bees wax and olive oil ( or whatever cooking oil the wife has in the cabinet ).
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